JauntyBishop

I decided to pull the trigger and go ahead and order the RR Racing Ultimate Damper and the scavenge pump/water pump pulley combo all in blue. Seems fitting to match the intake manifold and other mods I have in the engine bay. Plus removing 5+lbs of rotational mass off the crank is a win! I've read that RR uses the ATI inertial ring and/or that they have switched over to making their own in house... either way ATI products are top tier! Used them on previous vehicles.
Fluidamper is another great company.

The new crank damper quality is superb, and after going over the instructions as well as watching a few youtube videos, the install looks very easy. I will have to see if my torque wrench goes up 300lb/ft , if not I'll borrow a calibrated one from work since I work on Airbus aircraft.

Also, that is cool that RR Racing includes the installation tool to hold the damper in place by wedging against the oil filter housing. Then just torque to 242lb/ft.

Everything arrived quickly and packaged very well.

-The only thing I have a question about is if I still need to use Loctite 660 Retaining Compound (silver tube), as it was shown included in previous customers kits (ISF page)?

I'm going to wait until I get new Idler pulley and belt tensioner (already have new belt) before I complete the install, so I should have this all completed in a week. Then I'll share some installation photos.

Shoutout to Justin and RR for getting this kit sent out quickly! Really enjoying their products and customer service has been excellent!

Here are a few pics of the damper and pulleys.






I'll keep everyone updated once the install takes place!

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

The Loctite is a belt and suspenders approach, and honestly, I agree with it. The OEM damper on my IS F pulled off the crank with no effort at all. Most dampers require a puller to remove. This means the fit isn't even snug from the factory. All is well with the factory setup assuming you can apply the requisite torque. That's much easier said than done for most people, and given the majority of 1/2" torque wrenches run out of adjustment at 250 ft-lbs, the likelihood of getting the bolt factory tight isn't great. I bought a Snap-On Techangle torque wrench capable of 300 ft-lbs specifically for this application, because no matter how good your wrench, the accuracy at the limit of adjustment is never what you'd hope it to be. So, if you're like most guys, using the retaining compound will ensure that even if you don't get the bolt factory tight, you'll have some wiggle room to prevent the key from getting mangled and potentially the slot for the key getting mangled.

I trust my torque wrench to get this tightened to the correct value, but I would not trust any torque wrench rated up to 250 ft-lbs to get this right. JMHO.

ArticKnght

These look really nice. I am very interested to hear how the install went and what changes in the cars performance you noticed.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

The IS F owners who have installed these say it reduces inertia so the engine spins up faster than it does with the OEM damper. The brand underneath the RRRacing labels is ATI (no, you can't buy this directly from ATI or their distributors, RRRacing has an exclusive deal), and is well known in racing circles as one of, if not the, best in the industry.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

Here's a post from a much larger thread in the IS F forum showing what happens when the crank bolt is not sufficiently tightened. It's far from pretty!

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...l#post10769899

RRRacing

iTrader: (1)

Thank you for the review, we are sure you will be happy with it. Regarding the loctite, this is something we did on the first batch of pulleys we made, a few years ago. Since then we have tweaked the interference fit on the crank so that we have a slight taper which makes it easy to fit and align the pulley on the end of the crankshaft, but requires a strong press fit as you tighten, moreso than the stock pulley. This is important for durability in our supercharged applications, AND a tight fit is vital for the effectiveness of the internal internal damper mechanism.

Rafi

JauntyBishop

Agreed, they are all great looking quality parts!

Once the new belt tensioner and idler pulley come in, I'm going to start the install. I'll be sure to share pictures of my install.
As well as some before and after pulls using my DRAGY.

It most likely wasn't needed, but I ordered a new oem crank damper bolt. I figured for $8 it was worth the small peace of mind.

My GSF only has 65k miles, but I figured while I'm in there,I might as well replace the aforementioned with new parts, and not worry about it again for years. And I'll have plenty of room for activities to do so.

GS350BO

I got these on my GsF. Installed it around 50k+ miles with original crank bolt. Currently, the car is at 66k miles and no issues to report so far.

XF40FSPORT

What's your thoughts on the upgrade?

GS350BO

Taking 5lbs off does allow the car to rev faster and smoother but keep in mind I also had changed out the coil packs to high performance coils as well. Like RR stated the benefits are seen in the lower gears like 1st,2nd. Which I believe to be true. If you’re trying to improve E.T at the drag strip this might probably knock a couple of tenths off the 1/4.

JauntyBishop

When you installed your crank damper, was yours part of the batch that required the loctite 660?

I'm hoping my new tensioner and idler get here before next weekend, i'm itching to get the crank damper and 2 other pulleys installed.

JauntyBishop

This is a good Dyno video and verification of using an ATI crank damper to show back to back results of just adding the damper and saving rotational mass.

This is on a 2020 Challenger 392 6.4, and if I recall the weight savings from stock crank damper to ATI was 5-6lbs as well, (also its a 15% under driven unit)

Results were 11whp/19rwtq before and after, they use the 8HP70 8spd trans, and the pulls were run in 6th (1:1)

Smoother idle, revs quicker, better response, quicker acceleration by a few tenths... all similar results as stated on the 2URGSE (and other platforms)

Dyno starts at 4:52-6:40

flowrider

iTrader: (9)

Removed

Lou

GS350BO

mine didn’t come with loctite 660 but bought some anyways. Suppose to help the crank slide on and cover up any tiny gaps. It’s been awhile believe that’s what I did. And I also torque the bolt to 140+lbs first, before final torque to 242lbs. But don’t quote me on the pre torque. There’s a YouTube vid I followed somewhere about pre torquing the Lexus crank bolt.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

To be fair, I haven't removed the damper on the GS F, but the IS F is not even a light press fit. It just slides on the crank nose like nothing. I was really, really surprised by this, and every aftermarket damper I have seen needs both an installer to put it on, and a puller to get it off.

I've been down this road a bit with my 2JZ-GTE.