High Mileage GS-F?
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
High Mileage GS-F?
I'm looking at a high mileage 2017 GS-F with about 160K miles in my local area. The price is right and the carfax shows "minor damage" on the rear. Anyone else have a GS-F with this high of mileage? what kind of issues did you have besides wear and tear stuff?
#2
I put about 100 miles a day on mine and make that drive 5-6 times a week. Zero issues. Just stay on top of fluids/maintenance and run quality fuel. I, hand calculated, am at 24mpg but my drive is almost always at 75mph with minimal traffic. My best was 26.2 and was a pure highway trip.
I have seen higher mileage cars in the 30s. Unless you’re dead set on a GSF, you might find an ISF or IS500 in the budget with lower miles but it will be a smaller car. The trunk was too small for my needs (kids and all their athletic equipment).
Enjoy the search. I went half way across country to find mine.
I have seen higher mileage cars in the 30s. Unless you’re dead set on a GSF, you might find an ISF or IS500 in the budget with lower miles but it will be a smaller car. The trunk was too small for my needs (kids and all their athletic equipment).
Enjoy the search. I went half way across country to find mine.
#3
You may want to cruise the ISF forum since that iteration of the 2UR engine has been around longer and more vehicles with higher mileage. More RCFs around also and since price point lower, there maybe more examples of higher mileage F’s than the GSF. If you haven’t heard of the “valley plate” you can do a search for that which can be an issue.
#5
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#8
Instructor
iTrader: (10)
so I don't drag race or launch my car like a mad man...I do drive cross country once a year and many miles in the canyons, I do have an aftermarket full exhaust and my thinking is this: on an oem catback there is a thin metal piece welded near the rear. It is supposed to send cooling air to the tvd diff area. Aftermarket exhaust do not have that piece. So I am thinking it got so hot back there it melted the subframe bushings and boiled the tvd fluid. That's just my guess.
#9
so I don't drag race or launch my car like a mad man...I do drive cross country once a year and many miles in the canyons, I do have an aftermarket full exhaust and my thinking is this: on an oem catback there is a thin metal piece welded near the rear. It is supposed to send cooling air to the tvd diff area. Aftermarket exhaust do not have that piece. So I am thinking it got so hot back there it melted the subframe bushings and boiled the tvd fluid. That's just my guess.
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NotnFsport (08-28-24)
#10
Instructor
iTrader: (10)
This is really interesting insight and thank you for posting that! I believe I saw the start of your saga when the TVD blew up so I am glad you were able to figure it out. It's also hopeful for others here that a used TVD and some work can get things back in shape instead of only a new OEM one.
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#12
Tech Info Resource
iTrader: (2)
Issues:
1. The same interior pieces with the super thick clear coat separating, but just in one spot that's not really noticeable.
2. Potential valley plate leak - it's using coolant now, and I've already done one of these on my IS F, so it will just be a long afternoon and all good again.
3. Both of the rear shocks are leaking, and one has depressurized so the camber on that corner is a little over -2 degrees while I wait for OEM replacements. The wife didn't want to spring for the Ohlins DFVs I have on the IS F.
4. Both exterior mirrors have had motor failures before the extended warranty expired and were replaced under warranty. If they fail again, I'll just replace the motors themselves instead of wasting a lot of money on the whole assembly.
5. Brakes are an ongoing expense - I chose to use aftermarket rotors and pads because this is a grocery getter that's fun to drive, not a track day car (that's what the IS F is for). They're way more economical, and do the day in, day out duties like a champ without wearing out in 20k miles front and 40k miles rear as the OEM does. The original rotors were done on both ends of the car at 40k miles with the first set of pads in the rear and the second set in the front. The rotors were worn until the slots were gone, so I was not bamboozled by some silly service advisor looking for tuition for his kid's private school. I got rotors and pads from Rock Auto (Powerstop Z32 pads) and they work just fine for street use.
Anticipated issues from experience (none of this has happened yet) - the radiator will fail sometime in the next 50k miles. I would check the radiator on the unit you are buying to see if it leaks at the top tank (typical failure point). Same with coolant pump - if it has not been replaced, it's on a very short timeline to replacement. Alternator is unlikely. I replaced mine in my IS F at 220k miles, and it still had a lot of life left in the brushes with no indication the bearings were in trouble. Last, but not least, IS Fs have had issues with the cam phasers at some point north of 150k miles. Mine needed a new one on the driver's side (strangely most of the owners on this forum had the same one fail, passenger's side is less common), but it takes about 10 minutes to change one of these with zero concerns about ripping the engine apart. My video is 14 minutes because I made some poor mistakes. Watch, learn, and be done in under 10 minutes.
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Nunz (09-03-24)
#15
Stop the Copy!
iTrader: (25)
Just reading through this thread, did you end up purchasing? Also of course its a Lexus forum, but you don't have much to worry about. I drove my ISF until about 175k miles. Minor maintenances, yes I had the valley plate resealed as well as the high pressure fuel pumps (oil leak). It was a good vehicle until I went and got the IS500.
Good luck with the purchase if you pull through!
Good luck with the purchase if you pull through!