mdrx350md

Anyone have any issues with warped rotors on their GS-F? It started at 9,000 miles (now 9,500) and getting progressively worse. I drive 90% highway and do not drive fast and furious as you see many Civic SIs do after watching the latest Fast and Furious franchise movie... It's daily DD and see some "spirited" accelerating while merging on the highway.

Can slotted rotors be turned? Hopefully Lexus will replace them warranty. Any thoughts or experience with Lexus warranty on early rotor failure?

I'm going to call Lexus of Rockville and see what they say today. Will update.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

Rotors don't warp. I would try bedding the pads again before anything.

IsfClyde

I've never seen that happen on any F car. It's under warranty so I would definitely take it in. When you go ask for Jose the service advisor and tell him Clyde said have Alexis look at it. You'll be in good hands for sure.

mdrx350md

It has the typical "warped rotor" response. Brake on the highway speeds and the steering wheel/car vibrates/pulsates only when braking. Wheels are balanced correctly and no issues at any speeds unless braking at higher speeds. Do they usually cover this under warranty? The service adviser I talked with today flat out said no and that it's never covered. She told warped rotors can happen anytime and told me good bye.

mdrx350md

You are a wealth of information man. I partially based buying the GS-F off your UOAs on the IS-F. I never knew rotors didn't warp. I generally replaced the rotors once I got the vibrations in the steering wheel while braking on the highway or every second set of brake pads (~80-120K miles).

Are these good instructions to follow. They are from Stop-Tech's siteBedding-in Street Performance Pads



For a typical performance brake system using street-performance pads, a series of ten partial braking events, from 60mph down to 10mph, will typically raise the temperature of the brake components sufficiently to be considered one bed-in set. Each of the ten partial braking events should achieve moderate-to-high deceleration (about 80 to 90% of the deceleration required to lock up the brakes and/or to engage the ABS), and they should be made one after the other, without allowing the brakes to cool in between.

Depending on the make-up of the pad material, the brake friction will seem to gain slightly in performance, and will then lose or fade somewhat by around the fifth stop (also about the time that a friction smell will be detectable in the passenger compartment). This does not indicate that the brakes are bedded-in. This phenomenon is known as a green fade, as it is characteristic of immature or ‘green' pads, in which the resins still need to be driven out of the pad material, at the point where the pads meet the rotors. In this circumstance, the upper temperature limit of the friction material will not yet have been reached.

As when bedding-in any set of brakes, care should be taken regarding the longer stopping distance necessary with incompletely bedded pads. This first set of stops in the bed-in process is only complete when all ten stops have been performed - not before. The system should then be allowed to cool, by driving the vehicle at the highest safe speed for the circumstances, without bringing it to a complete stop with the brakes still applied. After cooling the vehicle, a second set of ten partial braking events should be performed, followed by another cooling exercise. In some situations, a third set is beneficial, but two are normally sufficient.

IsfClyde

Should be covered. What service advisor did you talk to?

mdrx350md

Did not get her name. I asked her a second time if she was sure that it was not covered, as it seems like premature wear. Yes said, she was sure. So that was the end of that.

mdrx350md

Thanks for the referral, Clyde! Jose is going to take care of it and Alexis will be working on the car. Taking it in tomorrow.

IsfClyde

Anytime man.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

Yes, that will probably work wonders and you'll have smooth brakes again. You have scraped off what little transfer layer was on there, but not entirely, so it feels really bad when it isn't.

mdrx350md

Took it in yesterday and told me that slotted rotors can not be turned so they replaced the front rotors under warranty. No more vibration.

Jose Miranda is the only service adviser I will work with. He actually has knowledge about car maintenance and repairs and just does not read a script when you ask a question. He was friendly, courteous and took care of the problem very quickly. I actually drive by Lexus of Silver Spring on my way to Rockville when I get on the HCC.... it's worth the extra 20 minute drive each way for the service.

Thanks again Clyde for the referral.

IsfClyde

Your welcome bro. I do all my work usually but when I do need something under warranty or anything that's where I go. I've prepped them while I was there and now on the F brand so I always recommend any F guys to go there

mdrx350md

So the shudder of the steering wheel is back after 1500 miles. Took it in at Lexus of Rockville and they stated the rear rotors need to be replaced. They are replacing it under warranty. I am also getting a wheel alignment there as well ($200). All 4 wheels have been balanced and the hub is clean, free of debris.

Can anyone give some insight as to why they shudder is back? Also, I have never heard of a rear rotor being warped. Is this common?

They stated the pads do not not need to be replaced and the front rotors are/pads are fine.

flowrider

iTrader: (9)

^^^^Did they say why the rear rotors needed to be replaced? And again, rotors don't warp. But, they may build up an uneven transfer layer of brake pad material. When this happens, following the bedding procedure will alleviate the issue.

Lou

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

Do you routinely left foot brake?