New wheels came in hub centric question
10-22-18, 01:52 AM
#2
No wheel should ever have to rest on just bolts.
If your wheel has the correct hub size to your vehicle, you should be okay. If not, you will definitely need hub rings/adapters otherwise not only are you putting load on the bolts and risk a catastrophe, but you will get wheel wobble immediately when you drive off.
If your wheel has the correct hub size to your vehicle, you should be okay. If not, you will definitely need hub rings/adapters otherwise not only are you putting load on the bolts and risk a catastrophe, but you will get wheel wobble immediately when you drive off.
The following users liked this post:
SilvaIS350 (10-22-18)
The following 2 users liked this post by Lexus GS3:
designo (10-24-18),
SilvaIS350 (10-22-18)
The following users liked this post:
designo (10-24-18)
10-23-18, 07:25 AM
#5
Silva, nice wheels! Love that brand and their quality, great color as well! Just to be sure, since I saw in your other post the lug nuts that you got (which are great as well). Designo said and I agree with him, that the wheels should not be resting or touching the lugs (the OEM bolts). Your wheel remains in place and centered, by the deep coned shaped lug nuts that you got acting against the hub. So assuming that the bolt patter is correct in your new wheels (it matches the bolt pattern of the GSF), there should not be any need for a hub-centric ring at each wheel since the lug nuts are providing the "centering" as well as the force that is needed to keep the wheels in place. It could be that the rings were included in case you were going to use spacers in order to correct for offset issues. If it was a wheel that was in stock, it might not coincide with the offset range that you can use in the GSF. If it was ordered to spec, it might be exactly the right offset. Do you remember what offset did you request or what is the offset of the wheels that you got?
10-23-18, 02:22 PM
#7
^^^^Yes, of course you do. IMHO, it's extremely important that the bore matches the hub. While it is true that the proper lug with a matching wheel will center the wheel, the rings are just added insurance that the wheel remains centered. And, also, IMHO, you don't want to put the entire task of centering the wheels on the lug bolts, that's what the hub is for.
Lou
Lou
Last edited by flowrider; 10-23-18 at 02:30 PM.
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10-23-18, 04:06 PM
#8
Driver School Candidate
^^^^Yes, of course you do. IMHO, it's extremely important that the bore matches the hub. While it is true that the proper lug with a matching wheel will center the wheel, the rings are just added insurance that the wheel remains centered. And, also, IMHO, you don't want to put the entire task of centering the wheels on the lug bolts, that's what the hub is for.
Lou
Lou
10-23-18, 08:02 PM
#9
OK, the rings that were sent to you... Take a good look at the interior portion of your new wheels (the part that mates to your hub) and see if there is an apparent cavity (bore) that could get filled by the presence of these rings. If there is one, and they can fit together nice and snug (wheel, ring and hub together), you will not loose anything by using them, and you might even feel better about it. But let me leave this clear, you will not gain anything either... Anyone that says or think that a hub-centric ring is design so the wheel (and all its associated loads) is suppose to rest against the rings, is simply mistaken and not understanding the design and purpose of those parts. That part of the hub that is 60.1 mm in diameter, is not design, intended or constructed to have radial loads applied to it. That is why it looks like a lip, and its not even deep, or thick like an axle... Your wheels and mine, and those of all other GS-F's rest 100% between your lug nuts and lug bolts. Any loads, from every angle, of any magnitude that are applied to that tire and wheel combo, are transmitted to the other suspension components through the unity of that "lug" and that "bolt"; the rings are nowhere to be found. The lug nuts that you bought (same as mine) have a tapered centering ring (at a pretty deep angle I might add) that allows for ZERO play once you install them correctly. The OEM lug nuts are very different in design (they are much easier to handle and install) but they accomplish the same thing just in a less elegant way I think. Again (to leave it clear) if they fit the right way, you can use them and there will be no problems. I just wanted to explain for you and others what those rings are not suppose to be.
Extra Info: If you want insurance, get a calibrated torque wrench of the right size since over torqueing or under torqueing could actually be fatal. What I mean by installing your lug nuts correctly is that you tight them progressively in a star pattern with a breaker bar or with a weak impact wrench that doesn't exceed or come close to the torque spec. You then pull the calibrated, bigger torque wrench and drive each lug nut to 76 ft. lbs. in a star pattern and repeat that pattern until they don't move anymore. Overall torque should be pretty stable at that point. Finally you "check torque" by going clockwise or counterclockwise nut by nut making sure that all 5 don't move at all. If they move (even just a little bit, before or right after the click) you keep going in whatever direction you were going until nothing moves any more. At that point one could say that the wheel is properly torqued. You should have had your tire in the air the whole time you were doing this, even though its not convenient.
None of this might be that helpful for you Silva, but sometimes I write here in the hopes that some anonymous person could see some value in it.
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designo (10-24-18),
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10-24-18, 08:29 AM
#11
Love the color of your car! Had it been available in 18, I would have order it that way.
10-27-18, 01:03 AM
#12
You are welcome. The PS4 is a great tire and actually the 265/30 ZR-20 for the fronts, will fit a lot better on a 9" wide rim than on a 9.5" rim, like the one I have. You are also going to love the way the PS4 outer rubber lip mates perfectly with the Advan outer edge design. This s not always the case, as my Proxes R888R do not have that protection and last weekend I learned why is useful sometimes.
Love the color of your car! Had it been available in 18, I would have order it that way.
Love the color of your car! Had it been available in 18, I would have order it that way.
10-27-18, 06:51 AM
#13
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SilvaIS350 (10-27-18)
10-27-18, 09:37 AM
#15
No, the outside diameter of that set up in the picture is basically the same as OEM (only .3" more) so it should not rub if lowered. What I'm using now though will rub... I'm currently running a Proxes R888R 255/35 (its really a 265mm wide) but the outside diameter is 27", which is a whole 1 inch more than OEM diameter so if I lower it now, it will rub for sure. The car looks very different now, it looks as it was lowered already because the new tire is beefier and it gives that impression by filling that gap way better. Of course the difference between both tires is huge in terms of hot performance, but unfair to compare as the PS4 is an ultra high performance summer tire, and not a competition tire like the Proxes.