Best brakes for GSF
01-07-20, 05:56 AM
#31
This does not reflect my experience with Project Mu at all. I'd say Project Mu HC+800 feel, dust, and wear identically to Carbotech XP12 on the street (I have run both on my IS F to fully worn out). Haven't tracked the HC+800 so I won't comment on their track abilities, but they've been indistinguishable on the street. Not sure where you got the idea the Japanese hate brake dust because the OEM pads on both the IS F and GS F dust immensely compared to many other options out there, and Lexus/Toyota have a world of options when they choose their OEM pads.
The "Japanese" brake pads on your IS-F are a completely different story.
01-08-20, 10:36 AM
#32
Tech Info Resource
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What you described sounds like the Euros plan to eat your rotors for lunch. If they're peeling anything off the rotor, something is wrong. It's not how brakes are designed to work. There is a transfer layer from the pad on the rotor surface which actually protects the rotor and slows wear. Racing compounds need a lot of heat to maintain the transfer layer which is why more aggressive compounds tend to squeak in street applications - they never get hot enough to maintain the transfer layer so they wear the rotors very quickly. Street compounds transfer pad material at lower temperatures so when you use them hard, the pads wear really fast, and they lose their friction when they get hot (fade). There are letters associated with this on every pad compound approved for street use, usually F or G - FF is common, GG is not common, and combinations of these are available. They're only rough guides and the manufacturers provide more detailed information, but DOT requires this. Those black spots are not pad material, they're cementite formed from hot spots in the metal.
https://brakeperformance.com/inspect...ake-rotors.php
Originally Posted by brakeperformance.com
4. Heat Spots
Heat spots (Fig. x) are a tell tale sign that your brake rotors have uneven brake pad deposits. How do they affect you? Heat spots will lead to brake harshness, vibration and reduced structural integrity. Heat spots on brake rotors occur when brakes aren't broken in (bedded) properly and the brake pad deposits on the rotor accumulate and eventually turn into a compound known as cementite. You don't want Cementite on your brake rotors. Cementite is compound that is very hard, overly abrasive and doesn't allow the rotors to cool properly. As a result, Cementite heats up the local area around itself growing in size and reducing the cooling capacity of your brake rotors.
Prevention: Properly breaking/bedding in your new brake rotors is vital to the longevity of the rotor. See our Brake Rotor Bedding Guide.
If this is caught early on, you can possibly remedy it by bedding in your brakes with a more abrasive pad, or resurfacing your rotors. If the heat spots are extensive, you will need to replace your rotors.
Heat spots (Fig. x) are a tell tale sign that your brake rotors have uneven brake pad deposits. How do they affect you? Heat spots will lead to brake harshness, vibration and reduced structural integrity. Heat spots on brake rotors occur when brakes aren't broken in (bedded) properly and the brake pad deposits on the rotor accumulate and eventually turn into a compound known as cementite. You don't want Cementite on your brake rotors. Cementite is compound that is very hard, overly abrasive and doesn't allow the rotors to cool properly. As a result, Cementite heats up the local area around itself growing in size and reducing the cooling capacity of your brake rotors.
Prevention: Properly breaking/bedding in your new brake rotors is vital to the longevity of the rotor. See our Brake Rotor Bedding Guide.
If this is caught early on, you can possibly remedy it by bedding in your brakes with a more abrasive pad, or resurfacing your rotors. If the heat spots are extensive, you will need to replace your rotors.
01-08-20, 10:52 AM
#33
How about the Sumitomo brakes on my Turbo Supra? They were dusty from the factory too.
What you described sounds like the Euros plan to eat your rotors for lunch. If they're peeling anything off the rotor, something is wrong. It's not how brakes are designed to work. There is a transfer layer from the pad on the rotor surface which actually protects the rotor and slows wear. Racing compounds need a lot of heat to maintain the transfer layer which is why more aggressive compounds tend to squeak in street applications - they never get hot enough to maintain the transfer layer so they wear the rotors very quickly. Street compounds transfer pad material at lower temperatures so when you use them hard, the pads wear really fast, and they lose their friction when they get hot (fade). There are letters associated with this on every pad compound approved for street use, usually F or G - FF is common, GG is not common, and combinations of these are available. They're only rough guides and the manufacturers provide more detailed information, but DOT requires this. Those black spots are not pad material, they're cementite formed from hot spots in the metal.
https://brakeperformance.com/inspect...ake-rotors.php
What you described sounds like the Euros plan to eat your rotors for lunch. If they're peeling anything off the rotor, something is wrong. It's not how brakes are designed to work. There is a transfer layer from the pad on the rotor surface which actually protects the rotor and slows wear. Racing compounds need a lot of heat to maintain the transfer layer which is why more aggressive compounds tend to squeak in street applications - they never get hot enough to maintain the transfer layer so they wear the rotors very quickly. Street compounds transfer pad material at lower temperatures so when you use them hard, the pads wear really fast, and they lose their friction when they get hot (fade). There are letters associated with this on every pad compound approved for street use, usually F or G - FF is common, GG is not common, and combinations of these are available. They're only rough guides and the manufacturers provide more detailed information, but DOT requires this. Those black spots are not pad material, they're cementite formed from hot spots in the metal.
https://brakeperformance.com/inspect...ake-rotors.php
On my old Volkswagen, on the contrary; the rotors look like ****. I tried to do a hard stop from roughly 50MPH to 5-10MPH (to avoid pressing the hot pad into the rotor at a full stop) and it certainly helped the brakes feel stronger and smoother, but those black blotches on the rotors are still there.
01-08-20, 11:00 AM
#34
Allow me to clarify. Whatever brake pads you guys have on your ISF, GSF, RCF, or even regular Lexus models with the F-sport package are "Euro style" pad material (dusty..!) and therefore a very good compound, even if the pad manufacturer is Japanese.
For non performance grocery getters, the Japanese clearly don't see much point in using these type of compounds for the brake pads.
For non performance grocery getters, the Japanese clearly don't see much point in using these type of compounds for the brake pads.
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Jeffrs82 (01-28-22)
10-11-22, 10:19 AM
#35
I am running dynamic friction active performance pads from RockAuto for $80 front and they are awesome. Just finished a track day and very impressed with the brake feel and stopping power. No fade and i able to brake hard. I ended up shredding/delaminating one of my front Michelin pilot 4s so I was not taking it easy. So far brake dust is not too bad under normal driving. I lightly sanded my rotors with 120 grit during installation to remove old pad materal and after bedding the brake feel was awesome and also no brake noise.
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DanfromTX (10-06-23)
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