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Hahaha 🤣 Oh god, yeah, that handle 🤣 no regrets on that username at least it's memorable.
I'll take a look at the R888Rs again. I had looked at them before but I was primarily a Michelin guy before, I'm branching out now. Thanks for the 411 on the RR Racing stuff. A lot of their gear is very tempting.
-Bo
I was a Michelin guy too, until Toyo offered me a sponsorship running their tires. They’ve been great so far.
I took my 16 GSF on a very small technical track twice. Shredded my brand new outer front Michelin ps4s on the 3rd session. You have to make sure your tire pressure is not low so that you are not rolling the edges about 40 warm at a min. Take a look at this post from TARS. He gives good track feedback. I might go with the eagle F1 supercar since those are designed for heavier cars. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...l#post10735587
Sidewall wear is real on the GSF. My old ss got worn out really fast, but the new p4s seems to be holding out so far.
Engine oil I tried stock, Eneos, and motul oil. I would say Eneos and Motul feels smoother, but not a significant factor imo. Oil Temps will still be slightly higher with either oils on the track.
I took my 16 GSF on a very small technical track twice. Shredded my brand new outer front Michelin ps4s on the 3rd session. You have to make sure your tire pressure is not low so that you are not rolling the edges about 40 warm at a min. Take a look at this post from TARS. He gives good track feedback. I might go with the eagle F1 supercar since those are designed for heavier cars. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...l#post10735587
I was thinking about the Supercar 3s as well. If I decide to go 18x10 square setup on wheels then the 275/40/18s Goodyear offers would be a solid fit. Thanks for the link!.
So as kind of a general update on this thread, I took it out again for a NASA AZ track day. Brand new PS4S on the front, we were running clockwise direction at Arizona Motorsports Park, no alignment or setup change as of yet.
Body roll was present and the car wanted to continue to understeer but really polishing line helps dividends in this car. The adaptive suspension overall is doing its job.
We were in the wet and even with the diff on track setting the excessive throttle tip in in Sport+ meant that without an extremely smooth ramp up the rear end wanted to come out. I left on the nannies for that, but the nannies contribute to understeer in the corner. Take note.
I was showring cord on my front left tire by the second day. Lowering tire PSI in the front helped grip significantly after tires got way too hot, but it contributed to the excessive wear. I am going to need more negative camber, flat out.
Now that I am finally starting to brake like I am supposed to I am getting the shimmy that was mentioned earlier, albeit in small amounts, as I am trying to be very smooth/progressive on my braking. It is still noteworthy enough to remove confidence and for that final 1/10th, I'm going to need those bushings.
The new plan:
New tires (again)
Figs front upper control arms
Figs poly bushings
then new wheels and new tires (again)
I need to get camber under control, -1.5 degrees at least. Literally the whole inner part of the sidewall is pristine.
I'll figure out new springs later, and I'm keeping the OE shocks for now.
Thanks for all the feedback and I hope this thread helps someone else! If other people want future updates I will post them here.
Last edited by VajazzleM; 01-17-23 at 11:06 AM.
Reason: adding an image
I had the same issue on my brand new ps4s on my 3rd 20 minute session. You have to keep your tire pressure at least greater than 40 psi warm and deal with the understeer until you add camber otherwise you will be shredding more tires. Did you Mark the edge to see how much you are rolling the tire? I was rolling it significantly so next time I go out I will be running around 38-40psi cold (45 psi warm) and go from there. Good luckEdit. Just saw the picture. you're rolling the edge significantly which means you need more tire pressure. My tire looked almost identical to yours. And it happened when I lowered my pressure. Just a little bit to 35 cold
@VajazzleM I am hoping to do upper control arm this spring. Is there a specifics reason for choosing figgs over rrracing? I am leaning towards rrracing because of price and the RR ball is sealed and appears to not be sealed on figgs. Ball joints tends to wear fast so not sure why the figgs is not in a large grease sealed enclosure.
@VajazzleM I am hoping to do upper control arm this spring. Is there a specifics reason for choosing figgs over rrracing? I am leaning towards rrracing because of price and the RR ball is sealed and appears to not be sealed on figgs. Ball joints tends to wear fast so not sure why the figgs is not in a large grease sealed enclosure.
I can only speak for myself, but the feedback that I got that while you can have good experiences with both companies, I've heard more issues from the RR end in terms of support.
I also noticed that the RR ball is sealed and the price is lower but in the end I'm going to go with Figs as I firmly believe you get what you pay for.
I will let you know how that turns out, I haven't ordered mine quite yet. Tires need to be replaced first.
So as kind of a general update on this thread, I took it out again for a NASA AZ track day. Brand new PS4S on the front, we were running clockwise direction at Arizona Motorsports Park, no alignment or setup change as of yet.
Body roll was present and the car wanted to continue to understeer but really polishing line helps dividends in this car. The adaptive suspension overall is doing its job.
We were in the wet and even with the diff on track setting the excessive throttle tip in in Sport+ meant that without an extremely smooth ramp up the rear end wanted to come out. I left on the nannies for that, but the nannies contribute to understeer in the corner. Take note.
I was showring cord on my front left tire by the second day. Lowering tire PSI in the front helped grip significantly after tires got way too hot, but it contributed to the excessive wear. I am going to need more negative camber, flat out.
Now that I am finally starting to brake like I am supposed to I am getting the shimmy that was mentioned earlier, albeit in small amounts, as I am trying to be very smooth/progressive on my braking. It is still noteworthy enough to remove confidence and for that final 1/10th, I'm going to need those bushings.
The new plan:
New tires (again)
Figs front upper control arms
Figs poly bushings
then new wheels and new tires (again)
I need to get camber under control, -1.5 degrees at least. Literally the whole inner part of the sidewall is pristine.
I'll figure out new springs later, and I'm keeping the OE shocks for now.
Thanks for all the feedback and I hope this thread helps someone else! If other people want future updates I will post them here.
Following this thread because I'm in a similar situation. Going to track the GS-F this year but want to be prepared. Since it's my daily too I just want to do enough to get it right without screwing streetability; so the USRS, Front UCA w/ Poly, and some 200tw tires. I'm mostly curious what track wheels people are using that are available off the shelf that support meatier tires.
Following this thread because I'm in a similar situation. Going to track the GS-F this year but want to be prepared. Since it's my daily too I just want to do enough to get it right without screwing streetability; so the USRS, Front UCA w/ Poly, and some 200tw tires. I'm mostly curious what track wheels people are using that are available off the shelf that support meatier tires.
Hey, nice to see ya. Since i want to do a 18x10" square setup, on 275/40/18, I was going to go with the Apex flow formed series. These Apex SM-10s look like great bang for buck, and they are a pound or two lighter than the OE wheels even.
I track my GSF and have tons of track experience.
Most important thing you have to do is get the Upper Control Arm from RR or Figs and run min 2 degrees of negative camber. Dedicated track cars take 2.5-3 degrees depending on pad/tires.
I ran both brands and like the fact RR comes with a fixed caster but both are great products.
If you want to take it to the next level (street/track setup) I have the following:
RR racing coilovers (CKS is made in China and RR uses Silvers which is made in Taiwan) Penske’s are top level. I run 16k/14k spring rates on swift springs and it rides better than stock. Coilovers helps with the both roll & reducing understeer
USRS bushing (figs or RR)
Endless MX72 pads with stoptech brake lines w/ motul or project my fluid
Falken RT660 275/35/18. Square set up.
**Keep in mind. The GSF/RCF is a heavy car so there are limits and if you want to get a true track car you have to get a car that weights 1,000 lbs less. Can’t fight physics. I have a dedicated track car. The GSF is just my drive to track and drive back in luxury car**
@SOCALGSF16 appreciate the feedback and I agree with your upgrade choices. I plan to get the RR upper control arm this spring. I am running stock wheels with ps4s. Do you feel -2 degrees is sufficient to reduce outer front tire wear? Also what is the benefit of running a square set up and 18 wheels besides more tire choices?
12-30-22, 01:04 PM
