GS F (2016-present) Discussion topics related to the GS F model

1st GSF with the valley plate leak?

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Old 02-09-23, 08:20 PM
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NotnFsport
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Default 2016 GSF with the valley plate leak.

My 2016 with 113k got bit by this flaw. Oh well. I'll be tackling this myself. No way in hell am I paying $2k plus from a dealer..lol



Last edited by NotnFsport; 02-13-23 at 02:11 AM. Reason: Update
Old 02-10-23, 02:06 AM
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VenomF
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Originally Posted by NotnFsport
My 2016 with 113k got bit by this flaw. Oh well. I'll be tackling this myself. No way in hell am I paying $2k plus from a dealer..lol
I'm actually having this issue currently, my heater wasn't working until I filled up the coolant reservoir, which was pretty low. I also see the same pink residue near the bottom of the engine bay
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Old 02-10-23, 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by VenomF
I'm actually having this issue currently, my heater wasn't working until I filled up the coolant reservoir, which was pretty low. I also see the same pink residue near the bottom of the engine bay
damn. My friend's LC500 also had this happen.
Old 02-10-23, 08:23 AM
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1A1
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It’s just a matter of time for all of us unfortunately.

Steve
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Old 02-10-23, 09:10 AM
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Already did this on my IS F. It's tedious but not terribly difficult.
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Old 03-09-23, 11:36 PM
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Ghicks99
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My last GSF, which was totaled dec of 2022 had 85k miles. I had the pink residue and coolant loss since around 80k miles. Super glad i didnt have it done prior to it getting totaled, lol. My current GSF only has 35k miles. Not sure if i should flush the original coolant or not
Old 03-10-23, 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Ghicks99
My last GSF, which was totaled dec of 2022 had 85k miles. I had the pink residue and coolant loss since around 80k miles. Super glad i didnt have it done prior to it getting totaled, lol. My current GSF only has 35k miles. Not sure if i should flush the original coolant or not
How do you suppose this might help?
Old 03-10-23, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by lobuxracer
How do you suppose this might help?
Over the years, ppl have argued replacing the pink stock coolant with the red as I assume they figured the pink interacted with the sealant in a negative way. That’s the only thing I could gather from different documents. Or it’s just luck of the draw if it happens or not
Old 03-10-23, 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Ghicks99
Over the years, ppl have argued replacing the pink stock coolant with the red as I assume they figured the pink interacted with the sealant in a negative way. That’s the only thing I could gather from different documents. Or it’s just luck of the draw if it happens or not
That was what I read too, but red is the bad one or is it pink?
Old 03-10-23, 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by IntrinoX
That was what I read too, but red is the bad one or is it pink?
it comes with pink. Red is what ppl switch to. I also read somewhere that the red has less corrosive chemicals compared to the pink. There’s a thread on here where someone listed each chemical in comparison.
Old 04-25-23, 01:14 PM
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gravesg
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It's the chemistry, ALL OF THEM will wear and become corrosive.
This item used to be a 3yr/36k service item. All fluid becomes acidic over time when you heat and cool it against metal with organic materials.

Wanna skip the valley plate leak? Be agressive with the coolant every 3yr or 30k
Old 04-25-23, 10:10 PM
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Except there's no indication of any corrosion when you reseal the plate. The inside of the coolant passages is perfectly pristine, AMHIK. Why is it some cars have the problem and others do not? I doubt it's coolant change intervals. The best test for coolant is to take your DVM and put the negative probe on the chassis and the positive probe in your coolant without touching anything else. If it's less than 0.5 Vdc, you're good. If it's more, it would be wise to change because your block is thinning.

I'd also bet the reason for the pink coolant is no different than the reason for the "lifetime" ATF fill. If you put your first change interval over 100k miles, the EPA gives you a pass. If it's less, you (as a manufacturer) have to pay to support managing the waste stream.
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Old 04-26-23, 12:11 AM
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Originally Posted by lobuxracer
Except there's no indication of any corrosion when you reseal the plate. The inside of the coolant passages is perfectly pristine, AMHIK. Why is it some cars have the problem and others do not? I doubt it's coolant change intervals. The best test for coolant is to take your DVM and put the negative probe on the chassis and the positive probe in your coolant without touching anything else. If it's less than 0.5 Vdc, you're good. If it's more, it would be wise to change because your block is thinning.

I'd also bet the reason for the pink coolant is no different than the reason for the "lifetime" ATF fill. If you put your first change interval over 100k miles, the EPA gives you a pass. If it's less, you (as a manufacturer) have to pay to support managing the waste stream.
I think 90% is right, however just because it's acidic enough to wear the sealant, doesn't mean it's corrosive enough to wear the metals around it; which would explain why passages are pristine but the sealant material chemically has weakened. I think the fluid has buffers in it that last quite sometime, but loose effectiveness slowly.
Old 04-26-23, 11:36 AM
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Seeing these reports from people, I'm somewhat prepared for this to happen to my GS-F someday. But I just wanna know how do I make sure the dealership actually uses the correct sealant when they re-seal it? Do I simply just request them to use that specific ultra expensive sealant? How do I know they actually used it?

I rather not deal this myself, it seems like a mess and quite some work.
Old 04-26-23, 03:53 PM
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The TSB has the replacement sealant as the only option.

Steve


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