Unfortunately any design with that many SMD LED's will never last due to the amount of heat it produces. If it would pass the test of longevity and we would feel comfortable offering a LIFETIME warranty, we would be using that method. We tried that method many years ago.

 

Thanks for the heads up. If it goes out, I will definitely update, but as of this moment, it is running excellent.

Picture was taken 9/11/14 and it is still going well without a single LED issue.

LED Manufacturer: OSRAM
Manufacturer part number: LS Q976-NR-1
digikey part number: 475-2512-1-ND

When you tried the chip LEDs did they burn out on the first test?

 

Didn't know you were a vendor on here. That's awesome. Once you are able to get the whole needle lit up without any problems let me know please.

 

Onelt,

If I find a needle and install the leds(if I still have some spares) and have it working for you, would you be interested? All you would do is have to pay ~$5 for s/h. Just so you can see that this method works perfectly fine.

Which needle is it that is not working for you? RPM, fuel gauge, MPH, or temp?

 

Umm all 4. I can supply you some needles if you need them, I have 3 extra. I would be interested and then later on I could get taninauto to redo my cluster.

 

ok, I will check how many LEDs (really led-on-chip) I have left, then I can tell you how many needles I can possibly do. Unless you want to buy more LED's.

I paid $19 for 200 of them, and that can do just almost 4 - rpm/speedo needles. I could order the extra leds, and you could just pay me for the parts cost or I could use what I have left and do one needle for you.

let me know.


Oh and for the backlit bulbs of the cluster these are what I ordered from amazon.com. My account says I ordered 40 in total. If I have extras, and I can find them, they are yours if you are interested.

~$6.00
Jtech 10 x T5, 5050 SMD LED White Car Lights Bulb



Also get at least 32? of these new sockets for the backlit sensor gauge LEDs. The original ones on the cluster have now become hardened plastic, and very hard to remove from the glass bulbs, or crumble very easily. You will thank me later.


10x 74 Twist-in White Instrument Panel Dash Light LED Bulb PC74 Sockets T5 Kit
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10x-74-Twist-in-White-Instrument-Panel-Dash-Light-LED-Bulb-PC74-Sockets-T5-Kit-/121262099051?hash=item1c3bc8ca6b



FYI:
If I were you, and to those that read this. I recommend leaving the "low fuel light" indicator with the original lexus gauge cluster incandescent glass bulb(or swap in a working one if its dead). The LED's work great, but they turn on like an "instant on" switch once the startup voltage is reached. For the low fuel light this is not the best option because as your fuel gets too low, the voltage signal gradually increases, hence why the stock low fuel light bulb gradually goes from dim to bright as the fuel goes lower and lower.
For an led there is just an instant on when the low fuel signal has reached a high enough voltage. By then you may have passed a gas station or two. Just something to think about.

 

I would rather have all needles done at the same time. Is there anyway you could tell me what SMD LED's you used along with any other parts. You can pm me that info. I wouldn't mind someone else to do it, but if I have taninauto do a permanent replacement I would rather replace them myself so I don't have to wait for the shipping time. I know I would have to wait for the shipping time from taninauto, but that will be down the road a ways.

All my 32 have been replaced with leds from vleds.com I have done all the warning lights as well. My low fuel light is always on, so it doesn't bother me as much. Along with my battery light, don't know why its on. My battery voltage and amps are good the alternator tested good as well.

And all I want for X-Mas is for my needles to light back up.

 

oh.. no problem.

If you need more pics let me know.

 

Sounds like we are on to something, and i get the vendor not wanting to back something that will just go out. So where did you pick up the mirco leds?

My next thing is i want to find a replacement LCD screen for the heater/ac control read out with a new one and re-solder it back on. I see replacements for the ls400's all the time but never the smaller board for the first gen gs300? Anyone know what the part number is or had it replaced, or replaced it themselves?

 

I listed the info in post #17 of this thread. I got the LEDs from digikey.com using the digikey item number above. The resistor used needs to be placed in series with the LED array, and make sure that you use a 1/8th watt, through hole resistor due to its compact size.

I tested a 10ohm, and 12ohm resistor and they worked. Based on my experience, any resistance 10 to 75 ohms will allow the max brightness(brighter than stock). You can use 100, 200, even 500ohms but the brightness will be much dimmer than stock the higher you go.

I was planning to change some leds that went out in in my temp control unit myself. I will take pics of those too when I do.

 

Kene,
Would you happen to have pictures of the back of your needles with the LEDs and resistors soldered on? Just to get the general idea of the process. I am looking into getting into doing this myself. Sorry for the threadjack!

 

Here you go. I will try and take one with the resistor.



I know it looks funky underneath, but that is the removable epoxy I used. It is a product called "GOOP". Make sure to used the clear version and NOT the black one.

 

I meant the LCD for the ac/heater controls not the LED lights - thanks for the inputs

 

I have not started on the AC/heater lcd/led light fix yet. But I did come across these old pictures for reference. These are what I used in my needles above with the SMD leds.







1/8th watt, 15ohm(?) resistor used for the gauge needles.





another picture of the resistor for size comparison.

 

Can you describe the steps you took on the needles? Or if you can youtube video it would be great. I have everything ordered but i would like to hear your input on how you set the micro led's and what type/brand clear epoxy you used, what type of solder technique anything helpful before i go all out here.