Radio Install DIY add-on
05-15-08 | 12:14 PM
#17
Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 11
Likes: 1
From: Florida
Justin
12-01-08 | 04:23 PM
#18
Advanced
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 636
Likes: 6
From: New York City
I have to say I am a very visual person.
These pics really help alot.
I will now get it done.
These pics really help alot.
I will now get it done.
Hey guys, I saw on here that a lot people seemed to have questions about the GS300 after market radio installation. So I just put a radio in my wife's car and thought I'd take some pictures during the install that might help you guys out. I was an Assistant Car Stereo sales and installation manager at Circuit City for 3 years so I have a lot of experience doing installs. So here we go:
I started by making a harness that was about 36 inches long to reach from behind the radio to the factory amplifier:
I left a quick disconnect harness on, like the ones at circuit city, incase I change out the radio later, this way I won't have to wire anything else up.
Next I dropped the glove box and located the factory amp and the output wires from the factory amp (an met 80 or 70 1761 from BB or CC will fit this harness).
Here's a close up of the harness and where it was unplugged from:
Factory Amp location on right:
Next I got 12 volt switched (accesory) from the harness behind the factory radio (not the factory amp) it is a gray wire:
Now I decided I wanted to try and keep the factory sub-woofer. To do this I wired in the sub-woofer wires (green w/red & green w/black on the small harness coming off the factory amp) to the driver's side rear speaker. The downside to this is that the factory sub and rear driver's side speaker are lowered to 2 ohms. It did not sound like any highs were getting through but it is difficult to tell since I can't fade the driver's rear off or it gets no signal. Here is a picture of the wires off the factory harness with the wires jumped from the driver's side rear speaker spliced and soldered on:
Next I grounded the radio to the gold colored bracket to the right of the glove box:
Here's a close up:
Last, I ran the wires along the same path as the factor wires and zip tied them in place:
And that was it. I soldered everything and I would recommend that you do the same. Time will tell if leaving the factory sub hooked up is a bad idea or not, but it definitely needed some bass when disconnected from the factory amp.
Justin
I started by making a harness that was about 36 inches long to reach from behind the radio to the factory amplifier:
I left a quick disconnect harness on, like the ones at circuit city, incase I change out the radio later, this way I won't have to wire anything else up.
Next I dropped the glove box and located the factory amp and the output wires from the factory amp (an met 80 or 70 1761 from BB or CC will fit this harness).
Here's a close up of the harness and where it was unplugged from:
Factory Amp location on right:
Next I got 12 volt switched (accesory) from the harness behind the factory radio (not the factory amp) it is a gray wire:
Now I decided I wanted to try and keep the factory sub-woofer. To do this I wired in the sub-woofer wires (green w/red & green w/black on the small harness coming off the factory amp) to the driver's side rear speaker. The downside to this is that the factory sub and rear driver's side speaker are lowered to 2 ohms. It did not sound like any highs were getting through but it is difficult to tell since I can't fade the driver's rear off or it gets no signal. Here is a picture of the wires off the factory harness with the wires jumped from the driver's side rear speaker spliced and soldered on:
Next I grounded the radio to the gold colored bracket to the right of the glove box:
Here's a close up:
Last, I ran the wires along the same path as the factor wires and zip tied them in place:
And that was it. I soldered everything and I would recommend that you do the same. Time will tell if leaving the factory sub hooked up is a bad idea or not, but it definitely needed some bass when disconnected from the factory amp.
Justin
Last edited by PR FIEBRU; 12-02-08 at 01:34 PM.
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annjones13 (01-28-23)
12-02-08 | 11:12 PM
#22
Ok, I've been searching forever and still can't find any info...hoping someone point me to the right direction. I want to keep the factory pioneer head unit and replace the factory sub (don't want to lose the ability to use the stearing controller and cd changer).
Thing's I've already done:
Replaced the factory speakers with 6.5'' (4 ohm) on all four doors. Still have factory sub but once I can figure out the issue above, I will replace with a new 10" sub. Sounds good on low volume
Thing's I've already done:
Replaced the factory speakers with 6.5'' (4 ohm) on all four doors. Still have factory sub but once I can figure out the issue above, I will replace with a new 10" sub. Sounds good on low volume
12-15-08 | 12:14 AM
#23
Driver School Candidate
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
From: texas
Ok, I've been searching forever and still can't find any info...hoping someone point me to the right direction. I want to keep the factory pioneer head unit and replace the factory sub (don't want to lose the ability to use the stearing controller and cd changer).
Thing's I've already done:
Replaced the factory speakers with 6.5'' (4 ohm) on all four doors. Still have factory sub but once I can figure out the issue above, I will replace with a new 10" sub. Sounds good on low volume
Thing's I've already done:
Replaced the factory speakers with 6.5'' (4 ohm) on all four doors. Still have factory sub but once I can figure out the issue above, I will replace with a new 10" sub. Sounds good on low volume
question: so is there no wiring harness for amp integration?
12-15-08 | 01:22 AM
#24
"line out converter" so that's what they are called. Thanks. I meant that I wanted to replace the factory amp and keep the head unit (for CD changer).
Is there a aftermarket head unit that'll interface with the oem cd changer and stearing control(I doubt it)?
Thinking about not using cd changer and stearing control for 6 pre-outs. Something like this. New can be found at same price as refurbished.
parts can be found here. it also list amp integration harness.
I found this reverse install radio mount.
Is there a aftermarket head unit that'll interface with the oem cd changer and stearing control(I doubt it)?
Thinking about not using cd changer and stearing control for 6 pre-outs. Something like this. New can be found at same price as refurbished.
parts can be found here. it also list amp integration harness.
I found this reverse install radio mount.
Last edited by sam430; 12-15-08 at 02:00 AM.
12-21-08 | 08:39 PM
#25
Pole Position
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 240
Likes: 0
From: la
so did you have to take the 12v switched from the behind the radio or could you have just used everything from the metra harness?
i read that avic diy thread about using the stock double din bezel. I wonder how much that must cost...
great work!
sid
i read that avic diy thread about using the stock double din bezel. I wonder how much that must cost...
great work!
sid
12-24-08 | 05:25 PM
#26
Pole Position
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 240
Likes: 0
From: la
instead of tapping the grey wire i cut it and butt connected directly to it.
I was thinking if we know that the grey wire is 12v switch, why not get the metra toyota amp harness and pin out to go from there into the stock harness and therefore save the stock amp?
I put in a panasonic 7 inch touch screen i got from amazon for 262 shipped. looks and sounds great. i'm waiting for my jdm din to come in but until then i'll just use the metra mounting bracket.
thanks,
sid
Last edited by sidwin; 12-25-08 at 09:55 AM.
10-25-09 | 01:03 AM
#27
Rookie
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 57
Likes: 1
From: IL
The real and only reason we cant use our stock amp with an after market HU is because the only way to turn on the factory amp is thru a digital turn on that can only be accomplished by the factory HU. hope that helps solve the other myths out there.
MECP Certified 1st class installer
MECP Certified 1st class installer
10-25-09 | 03:56 AM
#28
I refuse to believe that because that signal can be simulated. I'm not in to factory stereo setups so no reason for me figure it out, but with a little knowledge and research of how this amp works, a simulated switch has to be able to be made. Whether its cheap to do or not is not the question, but I believe it can be done. 
10-25-09 | 07:02 AM
#30
I'm assuming that once the color code is figured out, they are cutting the factory wiring and splicing the pigtail from the new deck to the factory wiring.