Very weird innter tire wear
#1
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Very weird innter tire wear
I went to change my front brakes yesterday only to discover that the insides of the tire are eaten out. Below is my suspension setup, wheel setup, and pics. Is this normal, and how can I correct this problem? It almost looks like wear from the upper ball joints, however I almost an inch clearence and don't see how the wheel could recoil up and rub it.
Specs:
- DF210 springs
- KYB G2R struts
- 235/30/20 front tires
Specs:
- DF210 springs
- KYB G2R struts
- 235/30/20 front tires
#4
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Very weird inner tire wear
I went to change my front brakes yesterday only to discover that the insides of the tire are eaten out. Below is my suspension setup, wheel setup, and pics. Is this normal, and how can I correct this problem? It almost looks like wear from the upper ball joints, however I almost an inch clearence and don't see how the wheel could recoil up and rub it.
Specs:
- DF210 sprint
- KYB G2R struts
- 235/30/20 front tires
Specs:
- DF210 sprint
- KYB G2R struts
- 235/30/20 front tires
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#8
Lexus Test Driver
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This is a side effect of having a lowered car. To minimize this, a proper alignment (toe and camber setting closest to 0 as possible) is needed. Also, flipping the tires (remounting the right tire on the left wheel and vice versa), will prolong these wear characteristics. You do not need to worry about the upper control arm; it moves up along with the wheel when the suspension is compressed.
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You need new tires.....then get 4-wheel computerized alignment done ASAP....like everyone...I suspect negative camber and too much toe in.
You pointed out the upper arm knuckle...yours look considerably long in length...mines seems shorter. Check to see if its torqued properly....or needs replacement.
You pointed out the upper arm knuckle...yours look considerably long in length...mines seems shorter. Check to see if its torqued properly....or needs replacement.
#12
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (22)
Larger rims, camber kit, spacers, anything that modifies the suspension such as lowering will cause camber wear. You just have to deal with it or take them off. The UCA I would aim first, ball joints, and suspension have it checked. Alignment doesn't necessary fixes the problem all the times. You just gotta deal with the suspension first. GL.
#14
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i have ruffly the same same set up (df210's and 20's w/ 255/35-20) and mine looks nothing like that? truenoboy-when was the last time you got new tires, rotated them, or got an alienment? that looks really bad. at least you cought it before you had a blow out at speed.
for you experts how much would a good alienment save your tires, ie miles with alienment vs not alienment miles?
for you experts how much would a good alienment save your tires, ie miles with alienment vs not alienment miles?
#15
i have ruffly the same same set up (df210's and 20's w/ 255/35-20) and mine looks nothing like that? truenoboy-when was the last time you got new tires, rotated them, or got an alienment? that looks really bad. at least you cought it before you had a blow out at speed.
for you experts how much would a good alienment save your tires, ie miles with alienment vs not alienment miles?
for you experts how much would a good alienment save your tires, ie miles with alienment vs not alienment miles?
Your alignment specs could be hard on your tires or gentle on them.
If you are racing a car, sometimes you want to set certain alignment characteristics that sacrifice tire wear for certain performance characteristics.
Most likely though, a "bad" alignment will cause premature tire wear with no performance benefit, and actually probably performance detriment.
A "bad" alignment can grind through your tires within a few thousand miles.
A standard alignment should cost maybe $60. If you're modified and need special adjustments from an alignment artist, such a shop might charge you $100 or so. YMMV.
Now compare that to $600-$800 for new tires as well as regaining some lost performance.