BLK13X

I'm thinking siezed motor as well, hope not though for your sake.

Was the needle all the way when you turned it off? Or was it still rising? I don't know if it could also be a blown gasket or cracked head either... Have you checked the colour of the oil on the cap yourself or the colour of the coolant in the reservoir?

prostock1

If you drive a car overheating to the point that is dies, then there will be engine damage.

The engines in these newer cars aren't cast iron Big Block Chevy's that can be overheated on a regular basis then cooled off and go on down the road.

The engines of today run less coolant in the head and block area, so when they overheat it's pretty extreme real fast.

This is the one thing that really kills most BMW's with the 2.5 or 3.0 six cylinder engine. It has a alum. block and head, and most drivers will encounter a simple coolant leak, that turns into a $7000.00 nightmare.

kaisis300

Yea I was driving mine and it was so hot that the car turned off. So ill be heading in to get information pertaining to the problem. It sounds like a vaccum when I try and turn the car on so hopefully its not seized but I suppose well see. What can you attribute it to when the engine is making a noise like that?

Mr Jokster

iTrader: (8)

You didn't tell me you kept driving while it was hot? With that information, everything I pm'ed you is worthless.

L3XOTIC

Pay attention.

this is a OLD thread. Why are people responding? lol

Mr Jokster

iTrader: (8)

Obviously you're not paying attention either... Read the last post of the first page. A New member did the right thing and didnt start another thread in regards to an already talked about topic.


sadly, new members get flamed for starting new threads for not searching and get flamed for searching and bringing up new threads... I guess they cant win.

kaisis300

i put water in it and it cooled off and then i preceded to go home and then the car turned off completely so now it wont start so everything that you said wasnt actually all for not lol but i suppose well see when i take it in

GS4_Fiend

iTrader: (22)

This is a true statement. OBD II vehicles are strictly based on Emissions and Safety. If the CPU detects something that is not rational, it will either set a code or stop the car. ECT sensor is one of the priority sensor. The reason why the car stopped was because the ECU is seeing a spike in temperature, in order to save the engine from blowing/overheat bad it automatically shuts off the engine.

tinman

Hum... you sure? It seems to me there have been posts on here about 2JZ engines overheating and not turning off before they are damaged. Also, you'd think we would have heard about faulty ECT sensors turning cars off, but I don't recall such a thing.

GS4_Fiend

iTrader: (22)

The spike was not high enough.

Mr Jokster

iTrader: (8)

While building my drag car, I forgot to reinstall my sensor and my car started fine

GS4_Fiend

iTrader: (22)

Forgetting to reinstall the ECT, the CPU will see the car as cold. The ECT has a Negative Temperature Coefficient resistor, as resistance goes up temperature goes down, as resistance goes down, temperature goes up. So, in your case, an open circuit ECT will show cold. Car will run rich, CEL will turn ON.

As for the spike I was talking about, that's only during the car on and the CPU detected a spike, HIGH TEMP prolong, it will shut engine down so it doesn't do damage.

pnewman30

I'm going to jump on board here looking for some guidance too. Last night my wife calls me and says her SC300 overheated and she pulled off on the highway. I get to the car and she tells me that steam blew out from under the hood. A LOT of steam. She indicated there was no loss of power at any time/low RPM's, rough idle, etc. But that when she pulled over during full steaming that the car felt like it wanted to die, lol. Gotta love the descriptions! She additionally said that smoke/steam was coming out of the tailpipes while she waited for me to arrive.

I got to the car 30 min later and the temp needle is pinned at H. There was a milky explosion under the hood coming from the radiator cap. I tried to start the car and it would crank, but not pull over.

I tow it home and take a deeper look into it:

1. Radiator is empty
2. Coolant reservoir is full
3. Temp needle is back down to C
4. Dip stick has no oil on it. NONE. ZERO. NADA. - further there is no milky liquid on it.

I filled up the radiator with green 50/50 and coolant began to leak out the bottom under the car (indicating crack somewhere). I tried to again crank it, but it won't turn over. It will crank, but not turn over. I never recall seeing any milky stuff in the dip stick and have the oil changed regularly.

I'm going to put a quart of oil in the car in a few hours and try to start again. Did she blow the head gasket? Would a blown HG stop the car from starting? I've revoked her Lexus privileges permanently by the way.

tinman

Wasn't her fault. Probably was a head gasket. It *could* be a faulty radiator cap, but I doubt it because you said the radiator discharge was milky, and the fact that it looked like steamy coolant was coming out the tail pipe when the engine was off are dead give aways. A compression test will tell you for sure. (low compression is probably why the engine won't start and why she said it sounded like it was going to die when she pulled over) The coolant leak is certainly of concern. =(

pnewman30

The engine has 170k on it. If the HG is blown (I find out tomorrow) i don't think I'm rebuilding it. I don't have the time or skill to work on it myself so I'm going to have to bring it in. Can someone who has been there before give me an idea of the cost for the following:

1. Replace the HG in my stock 2jzGE
2. Swap a 1j turbo into it
3. Swap a 2j turbo into it

Can I get a swap done under $2,500? I know I can get a 1j turbo for $1,250 here in Atlanta. They're also all over eBay too. Help! Lol.