Steering wheel shakes when I brake...
06-01-11, 12:17 PM
#31
yes you need a press, and it is a pain in the **** to get em off. Ask around around what is the absolute lowest price you can have a bearing pressed out and then in. You may save yourself some money by taking the spindle off yourself or buying one online already for sale, and taking it to the mechanic to press the old out and the new one in for you. then it is up to you to install it.
If you don't trust yourself to install things on your car, you can save a few bucks by contacting the nearest automotive tech school or junior college. I used to do this when I didn't have the patience for some of the more tedious jobs on my previous toyota. I'd just call em up, pay the 35$ lab fee fill out the paperwork, and let the professor use my vehicle to show the class how to properly remove the tranny and install a stage 2 ACT pressure plate and clutch...etc.
And sometimes they will see other parts that are in need of changing and ask you if you want to have the professor change those out too.
all for 35$ plus parts...if you were in california I know of about 2-3 colleges that do this.
Check if there is a UTI(Universal Technical Institute) over in your state. The other 2 are Cal state fullerton(or Fullerton Junior College.. don't remember exact), and Mt. SAC.
If you don't trust yourself to install things on your car, you can save a few bucks by contacting the nearest automotive tech school or junior college. I used to do this when I didn't have the patience for some of the more tedious jobs on my previous toyota. I'd just call em up, pay the 35$ lab fee fill out the paperwork, and let the professor use my vehicle to show the class how to properly remove the tranny and install a stage 2 ACT pressure plate and clutch...etc.
And sometimes they will see other parts that are in need of changing and ask you if you want to have the professor change those out too.
all for 35$ plus parts...if you were in california I know of about 2-3 colleges that do this.
Check if there is a UTI(Universal Technical Institute) over in your state. The other 2 are Cal state fullerton(or Fullerton Junior College.. don't remember exact), and Mt. SAC.
06-01-11, 03:00 PM
#33
This is a GS 2nd gen forum, and you can't put 18x9 and 18x10 on a 86 Corolla. After thoroughly reading their posts I can say it's not the brake rotors, not the bearings, not the spindle, not the pitman arm... nor did anyone mention a tension rod. Understandably many of us probably are talking about the same part but just incorrectly calling it something else.
That's why I used this pic because it correctly identifies the Lexus suspension parts by their proper names and the pic was easy to find. I remember posting it on the LS forum for a similar problem... and I also didn't have a GS diagram handy.
Although since they both come from the same manufacturer and share the same components, I assumed everyone could easily understand after seeing the diagram... I'm surprised you came up with "tension rod"
That's why I used this pic because it correctly identifies the Lexus suspension parts by their proper names and the pic was easy to find. I remember posting it on the LS forum for a similar problem... and I also didn't have a GS diagram handy.
Although since they both come from the same manufacturer and share the same components, I assumed everyone could easily understand after seeing the diagram... I'm surprised you came up with "tension rod"
So please, tell us what the part is?
06-05-11, 01:31 PM
#34
Also, the diagram you posted correctly identifies the name of the suspension parts...yes, but for a LS. A car with a completely different suspension setup; a car that is also equipped with air ride and like you said, the LS has the "strut bar" in the front. If you want to "correctly identifies the Lexus suspension parts by their proper names" it's actually lower control arm no.2 for the GS. and no they don't share the same components. Same engine, different chassis (hence UZS161 and UCF10/20/30/etc). I'm sure some parts can be used though (like the brake calipers). and yes, i'm probably being the jackass on the interwebz forum pointing out that you spelled their and there wrong so i'll stop.
Although, I realize now that I assumed wrong, it’s correctly called “Suspension Lower Arm #2... not a “Strut Bar”… and it’s certainly not called a “Lower Control Arm #2” or a “Tension Rod #2”. Like I said, “Understandably many of us probably are talking about the same part but just incorrectly calling it something else.” So... it seems like you have a lot more to edit than I do. In my defense... coincidently the Suspension Lower Arm #2 is secured to the chassis with the “Strut Bar Bracket Plate”. So, what's your excuse? (Sorry, this diagram is all I have for the GS… your Japanese translation may be better than mine, but I’m assured it’s genuinely accurate.)
In advice, not only was your write-up wrong, it's also highly misleading. You use the term “TRD Equivalent” too casually… I’m assured you have never experienced TRD bushings. They are not using any TRD equivalent rubber in any Toyota /Lexus vehicle part sold in North America. TRD rubber bushing are made from the very same factory molds and have the same molding numbers… they are just made with a different and much harder formula... much harder. They are visually indistinguishable… it’s only the hardness of the TRD rubber that is. TRD motor mounts also look identical and even have the same part numbers as their standard replacements… but they are not nearly the same.
to the OP>
do your own search and get as much information as you can before you ask blind sighted. There is plenty of information here and there are plenty of helpful/resourceful members here. And don't ever think more post count = more correct info, b/c post count doesn't mean anything. I have 6000 posts but I bet 5000 of them are OMFGLOLWTFBBQ type comments.
On a serious note, the GS has a lug centric wheel design and many of us have found the steering to shake more when you go with aftermarket wheels and the cone type aftermarket lug nut. I think some have had luck with a hub centric ring though. good luck.
do your own search and get as much information as you can before you ask blind sighted. There is plenty of information here and there are plenty of helpful/resourceful members here. And don't ever think more post count = more correct info, b/c post count doesn't mean anything. I have 6000 posts but I bet 5000 of them are OMFGLOLWTFBBQ type comments.
On a serious note, the GS has a lug centric wheel design and many of us have found the steering to shake more when you go with aftermarket wheels and the cone type aftermarket lug nut. I think some have had luck with a hub centric ring though. good luck.
Choritsu-shi
06-05-11, 04:52 PM
#35
What do you in your EXPERT opinion think it is? -- I for one, not knowing the story behind your help or any one else that has posted in this thread -- have actually replaced the parts I commented about (2nd post) with the same issues. Its either the brake rotors, bearings, or the tires/wheel.
So please, tell us what the part is?
So please, tell us what the part is?
I don't consider myself the expert... nobody knows their own car better than themselves. A good tech won't have all the answers... a good tech will asks the right questions. Of course seeing the vehicle is more reassuring, but my diagnosis is only as good as the symptoms given. Over the internet, "shaking" can be misinterpreted as "shuddering", "vacillating", "oscillating", "stuttering" or even "vibrating". Ticking can be tapping , or even rattling… are they all similar? or distinctively different? I am assuming based on what's been posted...
thanks for everyone's input. I'll check the rotors when I get the chance. Could wheel bearings also be a possibility? I recently put on 18x9 and 18x10 wheels from stock wheels and the shaking got worse. I now feel the shaking when going on the freeway even when I'm not braking. I did an alignment two weeks back as well.
I don't think it related to any brake hardware… Why? Because the op says the shaking continues even when not braking....
It’s not a hub-centric issue because he had shaking with the stock wheels....
Bad tires/wheel was a possibility, but after replacing the wheels and tires, the shaking has just gotten worse. Bigger and Heavier wheels will make the existing problem more pronounced or he's just adding another problem on top of another. Are they Hub-Centric? I'm assuming he knows better...
2 weeks prior to posting, he had a wheel alignment done… so I am assuming Tie Rods, Steering Rack, Ball Joints are fine otherwise alignment shop would've brought it to his attention.
With all that said, I am assured the Strut Bar.... correctly, “Suspension Lower Arms #2 Rubber Bushings” are damaged because the symptoms sound very similar. They are also hidden underneath the Strut Bar Bracket Plate and can easily be overlooked.
Choritsu-shi
Last edited by Choritsu-shi; 06-05-11 at 04:56 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
rclab1
SC430 - 2nd Gen (2001-2010)
19
07-17-07 12:51 AM
