johnnyho

I just received some devastating news today. I worked so hard, and long to choose the 2nd gen GS4 I arrived at. Scoured the local choices, and through these forums for months. Bought the Lexus repair manuals that apply to this model, started tearing into stuff....replaced a door etc. And have more to go into investment-wise....which I had planned on.

Today I learned that the mysterious "anti-freeze smell" I was concerned about, is an area of the block that has "JB Weld" slathered over it....to conceal or slow down (likely?) a cracked block or head gasket? I'll post the pictures...it was hard to get to, and see where it was over two different inspections I had done. The second being today where I asked to have a pressure-test done to find something.

I'm not sure what to do or think right now. Just full of questions.

Does the fact that it may have driven this way the last couple years (?still trying to determine from prior owner), that the temperature doesn't overheat and the level is not very low, mean this is something that can be "lived with"?

I can't tell exactly if its cracked metal or head gasket, or warped mating surfaces, without paying someone to clean it all off....then where will I be, and I should I? (or just leave well enough alone?)

Do I have any recourse against the seller? I haven't transferred the title yet. Or shop that "inspected" it before I paid for it?...whom the prior owner had used, and spent 15 minutes doing an obligatory visual and code scan, then magnanimously waived charging anything for it. And up to this time has just kept saying "good solid engine and trans...good car, nothing to worry about".

The shop that discovered this today acted like I shouldn't even drive it....then, that maybe it could make it through winter, but come summer - all could break down. He said $4500 for a "decent" replacement engine (because its a "big heavy V8")? Of course their specialty is Japanese engine replacement, parts and service.

Its just frustrating trying to figure out everyone's "angle", be it the reason for their perspective and opinion or behind what they want to influence you to do.

It ifs a "crack" in the metal, can it be welded? Or any other "damage-control" measures be maintained any length of time if conscientiously?

Or am I screwed to all hell...thanks for listening and letting me vent.

Here's some pics of the area, behind the oil filter, said to be near the #1 spark plug chamber and compressor bracket.

mveale

iTrader: (5)

Sorry to hear that, man.

As for "Is it livable?", that depends on how comfortable you are with having edgy repairs. It may run for another 100k miles with no issues or it could grenade tomorrow. It would drive me nuts knowing I have something like that under the hood of my daily driver.

I see a few options:

1) Bite the bullet, put a new engine in and move on.

2) Post it on craigslist with an honest description of the problem and try to recoup some of the money spent.

3) Post it on craigslist and claim ignorance. "It's an awesome car, no known issues, but the wife is making me buy something better for the kids/I need 4WD/I'm moving/etc..."

4) Sign up for AAA in case it blows up and start checking craigslist daily for a good deal on a used engine.

As for recourse, unless the seller is a dealer or gave you some kind of document stating that the car was perfect, I don't think you have many options. (Full disclosure: I'm not an attorney.) If the seller seemed like an honest person, you could give them a call and explain the situation and see if they're willing to help in any way.

As for the shop, since they didn't charge you, I assume you have no documentation showing services rendered, so it would be your word against theirs as to whether they even looked at the thing.

JLAWS

Looks that bolt might have been frozen on and when it was removed it broke/cracked the mounting area which looks like it is soft aluminum. I woud clean the area completely to see the damage. Google search shows aluminum can be welded. Another alternative is to buy some silicone sealer. Permatex makes several tyes of heavy duty sealers. I can't tell by pics if someting is damaged. It may somethings as simple as a small gasket that neds to be replace. Look like the fix was a lazy repair. Good luck.

FrankT

You would need to remove the bolt(s) and move the compressor out of the way maybe more, but I f it was mine, I would clean up the area with sand paper to see the extent of the damage.
Then you can determine your next move.

JB weld may fix it, I would use depending on the damage.

I suspect someone, while doing a T/B job, attempted to move the compressor out of the way with that rear bolt in place.

Good luck...

johnnyho

Wow...insightful replies each one! Thank you. I'm really grateful for each of your perspectives. I do mean EACH one. Thank you.

I'll add more once I get a chance. My poor head weary at the moment. Thanks so much
.

johnnyho

FrankT, you were right-on knowing that was the A/C compressor bracket.
When you said "T/B job", did you mean "timing belt"?

I wasn't sure of the lingo. I don't know if you're still likely to look back at this again.
Anyone else know if he meant timing-belt job, by that?

Thanks. That would make sense to me...and was what I was concerned the leak was a result of. The change was just done about a year or two ago according to receipts. Can I hold the shop that did it liable?

Assuming that is exactly what happened, should I trust JB Weld can hold for some years...or should I assume the crack will grow given 105 deg summer temperatures....and maybe high rpms for an extended period, like a 5hr road trip on highways?

Any guesses, opinions or theories welcome. Thanks

FrankT

Yes T/B = timing belt.

I doubt you can hold the shop liable, they may have settled with the owner at the time. But you may have a beef with the shop the you paid to do a prepurchase inspection.

As for trusting the existing fix, it's leaking and will always leak maybe get worse.
Talk to the shop that did your inspection and see what they will do.

Good luck.

johnnyho

Thank you again FrankT!

What about the seller - should it not have been disclosed to me if the shop "settled" with him?

The same place that did the T/B, did the pre-purchase inspection...but did not charge for it.
They have offered to look at it next Saturday...see what happens.

I had another shop say they have some "special" stuff that may plug it, said the stuff costs $75.

Someone else suggested I could get a "JDM" motor installed for around $1600 (?)
I wasn't familiar with what JDM was before now....so guessing that's a motor with 60k miles on it? And hopefully still passes all US emissions (since its from Japan)?

Phew....this is something else. Thanks so much for the insights

gsean400

I wouldn't say your screwed man. Run it till it breaks, I'd suggest slathering more Jb weld and that should buy you enough time to get a replacment engine. I had Jb weld on my radiator for 2 years on my old gs400 and it was still like that when I sold it, lucky for you a replacment engine is as cheap as 700$ and are about 1200$ shipped. So about 1600 installed sounds about right, I wish I could find the 3uz in that price range. I would say get the replacment engine to your house, then supercharge it till it breaks. No tune...

johnnyho

Hey thanks, GSean. I'm not sure I follow a couple things...just cause I'm only a couple months new to this.

Are you aware my engine is a "3uz" when you say it can be found for $700, but then that you "wish you could find one in that price range? In other words were you thinking the 2uz is cheap, but 3uz is $5k or something? (which is what I have)

And where you say "supercharge till it breaks, no tune"...kind of just run it down and don't bother tuning, to speed things up I guess? Afraid I don't yet know about "supercharging", what's involved or costs (sorry)

Phew, unfortunately its my daily driver, and I have no backup...other than I'm considering picking up a '96 ES300 for cheap as one, now that my comfort level is knocked in the dirt.. I just feel screwed all to heck on my investment...I'd rather put that money for purchase/insurance of a POS, ES300 into this car ...which is starting to resemble a money pit now.

Anyhoo. I need as little down time as possible and now rather than later...this is being way to drawn out already over months and other ares of my life are suffering.

Someone looked at those pics and thought that was actual "weld" rather than JB Weld. Don't know if I should I assume this engine can crack open in the next couple years and will cost $4-5k to replace? Still not totally clear.

Thanks so much

johnnyho

Sorry for a temporary instance of segway...just to explain my commitment vs frustration ratio, and that I appreciate the help here as I'm "feeling around in the dark".

I researched the Lexus GS (2nd gen), this forum, and my local choices endlessly before choosing this car. I made the best-educated decision I could, while watching opportunities I regretted waiting too long slip away. However deception, intentional or not, is always alive and well.. Take ALL precautions - phew.

I hope to contribute back to this forum on the work I had started on the "tilt steering motor" issue many experience...regardless of outcome on this problem.
Will be here:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...se-v2-0-a.html
And here, on last page (post#66 on):
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...c-wheel-5.html

From what I had managed to put together to invest initially, I should have come out well... trying to figure how I can recoup best

Much thanks

johnnyho

While being a "chatty person"....just got back from the place that did the inspection.
Guy always seems to be good about looking at something and not charging.

Anyway, he says the "weld" is actual aluminum welding done...and that it should not be the/a problem. He wants to take the A/C compressor out of the way, pressure test again and see "exactly" where the leak is....feels it could be from anywhere - coming from above that bolt or upper engine for instance.

I did find a JDM 3uz on Craigslist for $1700...looks a little "yard kept" and beat....with no other specs on it as to original miles or like. But its good to know something like that could be out there.

Gonna try to pull my hand back from the "panic" or "eject" buttons, for the moment.

Again, please know I'm grateful for the feedback here...many thanks

FrankT

This is what needs to be done. All you might need is a spot weld to seal it, much better than JB.
Hopefully this guy has the equipment to repair this for you while the compressor is out of the way.

In any case I would bet that you will be fine driving the car as is, just keep an eye on your coolant level.

Good luck.

angus

iTrader: (4)

Well, coming from someone who does aluminum welding for a living, I can tell you that welding that block in the car is a bad idea - it's problematic for a few reasons.

#1 - aluminum needs to be perfectly clean and free from contaminants for welding - this means you will want to have the block "hot tanked" first.

#2 - the access required to properly weld it may not be there.

#3 - after welding ( and I have successfully welded a few blocks) you may very well need to grind or machine the area to get the parts to fit back on.

If that car were mine, I would determine if the leak is really coming from the weld - as your mechanic said. Then I would clean and rough up the surface and apply a nice layer of JB-weld - if done properly it is well proven to work wonders.

It should also be noted that in many cases when blocks crack, it is from a collision - so check that.

eloxithack

I'm really grateful for each of your perspectives. I do mean EACH one. [img]**************/40Fxbu[/img]