This kit is so easy to install the hard thing was to find a place to route wires and anchor the ballasts. Total time with me documenting pics and etc was 1 hour and 15 minutes. If I had to do it again knowing the places now I could install the whole thing in 30 minutes easy. I am by no means a mechanic and cannot even change my own oil on these new cars anymore. I am not an electrician either on a scale of 1-5 with 5 being hardest to do, I would give this a 2. Lets start with the schematics.

here is the link to what the kit has and looks like
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...hreadid=113918

As you can see on the schematics there are really three main parts to the kit:
Part 1
The biggest and most important part is the relay. The relay has wires to power both the ballasts one wire is longer than the other with the longer one for the passenger ballast and the shorter one for the driver side ballast. The relay also has the wire with OEM H11 connector which connects to the driver side OEM H11 harness. The final wire from the relay has a positive wire with a fuse that connects to the + terminal of the battery.

Part 2
The ballast has the power receptor for the power cables from the relay, has negative wires that run to the grounding points on the car and has wires that connect to the light bulbs.

Part 3
Light bulbs connect to the ballast

 

Remove the plastic cowling or engine protector. These plastic pieces have several pop rivets just use a screwdriver and pop them out completely but be careful not to loose them or break them. The ones by the passenger side have a little round dimple just push it down and it will pop out. There are two plastic screws in the back passenger side just turn counter clockwise by hand they will come loose.

 

After removing the cowling it should look like this.

Now diconnect the battery terminals and remove your car battery.

Now replace your H11 factory bulbs by pushing slightly and then turning them counter clock wise. Put the 6000k bulbs into the factory housing. The new bulbs should fit like a glove with a perfect red gasket to seal it like the factoy red seal on the OEM halogen bulbs.
Do not ever touch your HID bulbs I wore surgical gloves because the oil from your hand can cause them to fail. Be careful not to damage the filament when installing them into the housing.

 

AFter removing the battery the engine compartment is open on the driver side. Look down under the headlights and you will see a shelf with a lip on it. I used double sided tape which came with the kit and zip ties to anchor the ballast down. Holes were pre drilled by factory. Zip ties are circled in red.

 

Next step is to install the relay which has several wires that feed each ballast and goes to the battery positvie terminal. Lucky for us the factory had one empty screw next to the battery that held the relay quite well. The srew hole was a little bigger than the plastic hole for the relay so I just took a drill bit and widened the hole of the relay housing.. Again at no time do you need to drill into your vehilce or alter your electrical system with this kit. All mountings of hardware in this kit were done by pre-existing factory holes and screws.

This pic is the driver side with no battery and the driver side ballast installed. I then installed the relay and plugged in the power cable(shorter of the two power cables) from the relay to the driver side ballast.

Red circle one is the pre-existing screw for the relay(the relay is yellow and black ibox n the pic) and red circle 2 is for the negative wire from the driver side ballast again very convient by the factory. Both ballasts have a grounding point on each side like the one on the red circle 2. It is a screw that holds a triangle bracket that clamps onto the frame of the car. Very convenient for us because all we have to do is piggyback our negative ground wire to these ground points. The ground points will be marked by whtie wires that are running into them like in the picture.

The relay is the most important part of the whole kit. It contains wires for the positive battery terminal with fuse, power cables to both ballasts and wire with H11 adapter to the OEM H11 harness.

The ballasts contain wires for the bulbs, wires to negative grounding points on the car like on red circle two, and power cable receptor from relay. Refer back to the schematics at the begining if you are lost.

 

Next thing to do is to run the longer of the two power wires to the 2nd ballast on the passenger side. Lexus was to kind as to have a hole in the front fire wall for the wire to go through. So no wires were exposed. I just used zip ties to keep the wire anchored as it was routed.

Check out the red circle.

 

Continue to run the power cable as neat as you can using zp ties to anchor the wire to the frame with pre drilled holes that Lexus made for us. Then run the wire into the front firewall again through a pre-existing hole just follow the red line on pic.

 

Now just install the passenger side ballast into the passenger side well. There is plenty of space in there I used the shelf that was there and put double sided tape and zip tied the ballast down. Now plug the power line you ran from the driver side relay to the passenger side ballast.

Power line is red on pic. It is coming from the front firewall along the radiator.

 

After connecting the power to both ballasts from the relay. Go back to the driver side and connect the H11 cable from the the relay to the OEM H11 harness. This is where Xenondepot kit rules. This kit is strictly plug and play most kit will have you splicing wires or tapping into the harness to connect.

The factory harness is wrapped in green and the Xenondepot H11 adapter is gray.

 

After connecting the H11 adapter to the driver side H11 harness, plug in your lights from the ballast cables. These cables are male to female with grooves and are size specific so you cant screw them up. By the way you only use one side of the factory harness the other passenger side factory H11 harness should be wrapped with electrical tape and zip tied down for protection. This is nice because it does away with extra wires. Again Awesome kit.

 

Reinstall the battery and the plastic cowling. The kit done this way is totally concealed. There are no exposed ballasts or wires. One more pic and then let there be light!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

By the way connect the final wire from the relay that has a fuse on it to the + terminal and you are done.

 

Yahoo they work

 

hid pic

 

Very nice and informative Tony. Great work and tips, now I am waiting for my HID kit. BTW, with HID light on at night, what' s the bulbs 6000K color look like? Pure white or white with little purple tinted?

 

here is a comparison before and after. Really there is no comparison the light output of the HID kit is at least 3 times the factory light. I parked in the same position both shots and pointed my camera out the driver side window. For some reason my camera kept focusing on the gauges from inside the cabin so I pointed it from outside the dirver side. The light on the factory is so weak.