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hey has anyone had any problems with the tire pressure monitoring system.. i think i need to take mine in since the light is solid.. there is a little togle button and i togled it but nothing happens :-\ stupid light is still on
I believe solid means one or more tires are low on air. Don't forget to check the spare tire. If the light is flashing then there is a problem with the system and you need to take it to the dealer. The toggle switch is if you have a second set of tires with sensors, you can toggle to have the computer use those sensors. Hope that helps!
yeah, i checked the tires all are at 32.. one was at 31 but i fixed it now..
the manual said i'd go away but its still there ohh well time to take it in
14yrs+2mo after buying my 2006 two of five OEM TPMS sensors died. Went and bought a Autel TS508 kit (comes with 8 MX-1 sensors (check Advance Auto, they have it w/ discount coupon). Just be warned about these Autel kits, Autel recently stopped selling the MX-R sensors and now only uses the dual freq MX-1 sensor (they call it the "1 Sensor"). MX-1's also come in adjustable angle but the kit I got was non-adj MX-1 with four metal stems. Ok, if you are getting the metal stems then just get the tool w/ sensors, you can get 8 metal stems from Advance Auto Parts for $26. If you get a kit that does not have MX-1 sensors, return the kit. I think I paid ~$350 for tool-kit w/ 8 metal stems. TS508 allows you to read & write TPMS via OBDII, etc. I read all my stored sensor codes, and then programmed the new sensors with those codes, installing the sensors in the locations listed from OBDII, etc.
Updating the TS508 firmware is a bit of a kluge, but know that the app they make you use connects to their server on some odd TCP port (9600) so if you have a firewall that limits outbound then the app basically fails to connect to their server (china server I suspect). Using online vids of the tool is ez'est way to learn the tool.
OEM sensors weigh 33.623g while the MX-1 w/ metal stem weigh 24.485g. 7g might be enough to throw off balance.
Next I used the HF SKU 92961 bead tool. This tool is right on edge of not being able to do the job. The bottom hoop is too small in length, and the little rim stop is just too small to hold wheel from slipping. I places a 24x24 plywood board over the hoop so that the wheel would also rest on the board which the prevents the pointy end of the hoop from lifting up while pressing down on handle. Anyways, with a little effort (not much) while using feet to help push bead down, the beads pop off. NOTE: make sure the sensor is located just outside the tool's bead head, you can then step on tire to remove and install the sensors. Do not drop anything inside the wheel, can be a bear to retrieve stuff that falls inside.
I have a good in-lb/Nm 1/4" TQ wrench, MX-1 sensors call for 35in-lb (4Nm). I also prefer to place a small amount of blue locktite on the retaining stem threads.
I also have a valve stem TQ tool, it does a slip-around when TQ is correct, I always check the valve stems for correct tightness. If you don't have this tool then at least make sure they are snug tight, etc.
Getting tire to re-seat is simple. In a small spray bottle I mix about ~8oz of water with a ~4-5 drops of Dawn and a cap-full (cap the size on a 20oz bottle of soda, etc) of fabric softener. Don't shake the spray bottle, just swirl it around to mix. Just wet the tire bead all the way around (don't over do the spraying, just being wet is good enough) and then attempt to fill the tire with air. If at 1st it wont start to seal then just stand on the rim while filling with air, it only takes the tire to touch the rim all the way around for the air to start pushing. Fill until the bead "pops" back, and then set to proper psi. You can use the same solution to check for bead leaks, just lay the wheel flat and spray the bead edge, check for air bubbles. If you have air leak then you'll need to unseat the bead and use some bead sealer. None of mine had bead leaks.
Figure about 30-45min per wheel, from jack up to jack down, etc. I did one wheel at a time. This also give you opportunity to inspect things.
Cost wise, probably saved $100+, and, I now have my own TPMS tool and bead breaker tool (which I will modify later for next use).
Hopefully this helps those who may be interested in such a DIY.
When I bought tires about 5 years ago, I regret not getting the sensors changed at the same time. I ended up having to replace them one at a time as each battery died. Which meant I had to pay to mount + balance each tire twice.
When I bought tires about 5 years ago, I regret not getting the sensors changed at the same time. I ended up having to replace them one at a time as each battery died. Which meant I had to pay to mount + balance each tire twice.
Chip H.
I had just done a set of tires a few months back too.
I didn't re-balance yet, I am not sure -7g at the sensor location made much diff in balancing. But, having a rebalance is not a bad choice.
It's hard to know exactly when the sensor will go south in terms of timing them with a full tire change. My OEM spare (used only once for about 100mi) got all dry rot so I replaced it with a decent low cost ~$75 tire from amzon, then had a local place mount it for me. Soon after that the DT Coopers needed to be replaced, so I tossed on some Nankang SP9 at DT, really can't beat $500 out-the-door price for four decent tires.
Anyways, TPMS sensors will almost always seem to be a pita when they start to go bad. But maybe for others, if you are getting ready for tires with sensors that are near 13-14yrs old, then that's the time to replace all the sensors.
Why bypass and not fix?
I saw the thread and u-toob vids for jumping pins on TPMS module. I myself would rather have it working vs disabled.
Perhaps it’s the old school in me coming out...I drove for many years without TPMS. I used to check tire pressure regularly before, but I haven’t since driving TPMS equipped vehicles..though I still should anyway.
Anyway, for me it’s not worth the roughly $400 to me to replace it. Don’t get me wrong, I like the system when it works but not enough to spend $$$ on it if I can avoid it. I just spent $300 fixing all 4 on my 06 Prius because there is no such bypass on it. I would’ve spent it on this truck too if I had to.
Perhaps it’s the old school in me coming out...I drove for many years without TPMS. I used to check tire pressure regularly before, but I haven’t since driving TPMS equipped vehicles..though I still should anyway.
Anyway, for me it’s not worth the roughly $400 to me to replace it. Don’t get me wrong, I like the system when it works but not enough to spend $$$ on it if I can avoid it. I just spent $300 fixing all 4 on my 06 Prius because there is no such bypass on it. I would’ve spent it on this truck too if I had to.
I hear ya.
TPMS though is a given expense (like brake pads & rotors), the sales folks just never tell you that
It's not just $400 though, for me it's more like $400/168mo = $2.38/mo for TPMS just to own the vehicle with TPMS, etc.TPMS batts die sooner or later based on non-idle time. The more it's 'on' the more sensor batt is used. Mine went 224kmi (14+ years). Not bad for a little wafer batt from 2006, etc.
09-02-04, 12:05 PM
tire pressure problems
ohh well time to take it in
