DIY Oil Change
06-24-06, 11:06 PM
#16
EQUIPMENT MAKE - 05 Toyota 4Runner
EQUIPMENT MODEL - 4.7L V-8 - 2UZ-FE
FUEL TYPE - Gasoline Unleaded
ADDITIONAL INFO - Amsoil dual By-Pass System
OIL USE INTERVAL - 12,500 Miles
OIL TYPE & GRADE - Amsoil 0W/30 gas
MAKE-UP OIL ADDED - 0 qts
TYPE OF DRIVING - 80% City
Comments - High wear metals and silicon are not unusual finds in the oil from your new Toyota. The wear is high due to break-in of new parts, while silicon is from sealers and sand-casted parts. Universal averages show typical wear for this type engine after 5803 miles use. We expect your engine will look that good or better in future oil changes. The TBN was 2.9, some active additive left - 1.0 is low. Insolubles at 0.3% indicates normal oil filtration. Viscosity was high due to oil brand. Suggest shorter oil changes to allow the engine to fully break-in before extending oil use. Nice 4.7L!
EQUIPMENT MODEL - 4.7L V-8 - 2UZ-FE
FUEL TYPE - Gasoline Unleaded
ADDITIONAL INFO - Amsoil dual By-Pass System
OIL USE INTERVAL - 12,500 Miles
OIL TYPE & GRADE - Amsoil 0W/30 gas
MAKE-UP OIL ADDED - 0 qts
TYPE OF DRIVING - 80% City
Comments - High wear metals and silicon are not unusual finds in the oil from your new Toyota. The wear is high due to break-in of new parts, while silicon is from sealers and sand-casted parts. Universal averages show typical wear for this type engine after 5803 miles use. We expect your engine will look that good or better in future oil changes. The TBN was 2.9, some active additive left - 1.0 is low. Insolubles at 0.3% indicates normal oil filtration. Viscosity was high due to oil brand. Suggest shorter oil changes to allow the engine to fully break-in before extending oil use. Nice 4.7L!
Oil: Dealer Bulk Toyota Dino 5w-30 - told it was maded by Mobile.
Toyota Tundra 2002
4.7L V-8 2UZ-FE, Gasoline
Vehicle miles: 24123
Miles on oil : 3,236
Life of oil : 8 Months
Type of drive: Short trips
Oil Filter: Toyota 90915-YZZD3 - 3,236 miles
Air Filter: Original Toyota Filter
Lab comment: TBN is low, recommend change oil and oil filter.
Toyota Tundra 2002
4.7L V-8 2UZ-FE, Gasoline
Vehicle miles: 24123
Miles on oil : 3,236
Life of oil : 8 Months
Type of drive: Short trips
Oil Filter: Toyota 90915-YZZD3 - 3,236 miles
Air Filter: Original Toyota Filter
Lab comment: TBN is low, recommend change oil and oil filter.
First UOA on my Tundra. It's had a steady diet of M1 since the beginning (I changed the OEM fill at about 2500 and then but M1 in at 5000). This UOA is from the summer months, 16 mile daily commute and a few 200-300 mile trips. Truck is not driven very hard. I'd been changing the oil at 5k per the manual, knowing the oil was probably not used up. Now I can get a baseline and experiment with longer intervals as well as different fills (went with M1 Truck/SUV at this change). I will probably do the next change at 5000 again because I'm interested to see how the harsh Michigan winters/winter driving treats the oil.
Engine: Toyota 4.7L V8 (Tundra DC 4X4)
Miles on Engine: 20,122
Oil: Mobil 1 5W-30
Miles on Oil: 5,022
Additional Info: Mobil 1 oil filter, 16 mile daily commute, occasional 200-300 mile trips
Comments: Your Toyota is looking good. All wear read at or below averages for this type of engine, which is a very good indication of normal wearing parts and that you’re operating the engine carefully. The universal averages show normal wear after 4800 miles on the oil. Insolubles were low at 0.4%, showing good oil filtration. No fuel dilution or anti-freeze was found. Silicon was mildly high and it may be from lingering wear-in or a dirty air filter. The TBN read 3.9, still active additives remaining. Try 5500 miles.
Engine: Toyota 4.7L V8 (Tundra DC 4X4)
Miles on Engine: 20,122
Oil: Mobil 1 5W-30
Miles on Oil: 5,022
Additional Info: Mobil 1 oil filter, 16 mile daily commute, occasional 200-300 mile trips
Comments: Your Toyota is looking good. All wear read at or below averages for this type of engine, which is a very good indication of normal wearing parts and that you’re operating the engine carefully. The universal averages show normal wear after 4800 miles on the oil. Insolubles were low at 0.4%, showing good oil filtration. No fuel dilution or anti-freeze was found. Silicon was mildly high and it may be from lingering wear-in or a dirty air filter. The TBN read 3.9, still active additives remaining. Try 5500 miles.
Toyota Tundra
4.7L V-8 (2UZ-FE)
Gasoline
Vehicle miles: 47,650
Miles on oil : 1,997
Life of oil : 6 Months
Lab: Blackstone
“No Problems showed up in the initial sample from this engine. Wear was so low, it’s almost criminal! All wear read well below averages for this type of engine, which is a good indication of normal wearing parts. The universal averages show normal wear after about 5900 miles on the oil. Insolubles were low, showing good oil filtration. The viscosity was mildly low for a used 5W/30, but that’s not hurting anything. Overall, everything looks great. The TBN was okay at 3.6, so the oil still had some active additive left. – 1.0 is low. Try 5000 miles on the next oil.
4.7L V-8 (2UZ-FE)
Gasoline
Vehicle miles: 47,650
Miles on oil : 1,997
Life of oil : 6 Months
Lab: Blackstone
“No Problems showed up in the initial sample from this engine. Wear was so low, it’s almost criminal! All wear read well below averages for this type of engine, which is a good indication of normal wearing parts. The universal averages show normal wear after about 5900 miles on the oil. Insolubles were low, showing good oil filtration. The viscosity was mildly low for a used 5W/30, but that’s not hurting anything. Overall, everything looks great. The TBN was okay at 3.6, so the oil still had some active additive left. – 1.0 is low. Try 5000 miles on the next oil.
First oil analysis on my '99 Land Cruiser. I bought it used with 45k mi. on the odometer and unknown service history (most likely dealer serviced). I did an initial 5K mi. oil change with Mobil-1 10W30 and have been using the same oil ever since with 7,500 mi. OCI and factory oil filters. Use is a mixture of commuting city/highway, but the trips are usually >1/2 hour long. I put about 15,000/yr on the truck and had 87,500 miles when this oil was changed.
Comments from Blackstone were that everything looked fine, engine was wearing nicely, and that I could probably extend the OCI some.
Comments from Blackstone were that everything looked fine, engine was wearing nicely, and that I could probably extend the OCI some.
Quick search off BITOG.
The 2uz-fe is like every other modern Toyota v8, or v6... Put any mobil 1 in it, change it at 5000, 7500, 10000, or 12500 miles - depending on dino vs synthetic & filtration - and it'll give great results, barring the engine is a lemon...
06-26-06, 04:30 PM
#17
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: VA
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Originally Posted by vgg659
I've been doing my own oil changes for 30 years, and I can't figure this out.
>> remove the plate versus letting it hang on the built in hinge.
On my 2006 GX, the metal plate in question is attached (via 2 screws and a plastic rivet) to a plastic plate connected to the bumper. How do you remove the metal plate given that it's attached to the plastic plate (I can't figure out how to remove the plastic rivet).
>> I actually had to jack up the front a few inches to get the skid plate off. Much neater this way.
Also, how do you jack up this vehicle for the oil change??? I can't seem to find a convenient jack point with all of these $%#@ plates hanging around.
>> remove the plate versus letting it hang on the built in hinge.
On my 2006 GX, the metal plate in question is attached (via 2 screws and a plastic rivet) to a plastic plate connected to the bumper. How do you remove the metal plate given that it's attached to the plastic plate (I can't figure out how to remove the plastic rivet).
>> I actually had to jack up the front a few inches to get the skid plate off. Much neater this way.
Also, how do you jack up this vehicle for the oil change??? I can't seem to find a convenient jack point with all of these $%#@ plates hanging around.
There really isn't a central point for jacking up the vehicle. I generally lay on my back in the garage when changing the oil. If I try to use a creeper there isn't quite enough room.
06-27-06, 02:25 PM
#18
Originally Posted by no1sportz
There really isn't a central point for jacking up the vehicle. I generally lay on my back in the garage when changing the oil. If I try to use a creeper there isn't quite enough room.
If I ever decide to get an oil & filter change done at the dealer, I'll ask the tech while its up on the lift.
Or are there any Lexus techs in here who can confirm this?
07-07-06, 05:19 AM
#19
Driver School Candidate
Originally Posted by BobsGX
The Lexus service manual shows a spot under the GX where you can use a floor jack and lift the front of the GX up. You would put the lift pad right under the center of the crossmember under the skid plate. I just don't think the skid plate is strong enough to hold up the GX without crushing the skid plate. But I do see that there is a reinforcement in between the skidplate and the crossmember, so I guess it would work. I just don't want to be the one to try it.
If I ever decide to get an oil & filter change done at the dealer, I'll ask the tech while its up on the lift.
Or are there any Lexus techs in here who can confirm this?
If I ever decide to get an oil & filter change done at the dealer, I'll ask the tech while its up on the lift.
Or are there any Lexus techs in here who can confirm this?
I feel that I need to lift the GX to get better access to the oil filter, and prevent a rather large mess. I find the skid plate to be particularly annoying and difficult to deal with while the GX is on the ground. I will tackle this project this weekend, so wish me luck I (either with the floor jack or the ramps!).
Do you find the service manual to be informative? I usually do minimal mechanical work, but I do things like brakes, oil changes, etc.
07-07-06, 08:32 PM
#20
Originally Posted by vgg659
Well, I have ramps, but I hate using them because I'm scared of causing a lot of damage getting on them (and falling off). I would much rather use my floor jack and stands to lift the GX. I too am worried about using the floor jack in the area you identified, but I am inclined to use it given that the shop manual identifies this spot. I have seen the reinforcement, too. If Lexus put it there, it must be OK.
I feel that I need to lift the GX to get better access to the oil filter, and prevent a rather large mess. I find the skid plate to be particularly annoying and difficult to deal with while the GX is on the ground. I will tackle this project this weekend, so wish me luck I (either with the floor jack or the ramps!).
Do you find the service manual to be informative? I usually do minimal mechanical work, but I do things like brakes, oil changes, etc.
I feel that I need to lift the GX to get better access to the oil filter, and prevent a rather large mess. I find the skid plate to be particularly annoying and difficult to deal with while the GX is on the ground. I will tackle this project this weekend, so wish me luck I (either with the floor jack or the ramps!).
Do you find the service manual to be informative? I usually do minimal mechanical work, but I do things like brakes, oil changes, etc.
I know its crazy, but I always buy the factory service manual for any vehicle I own.
07-08-06, 01:36 PM
#21
Driver School Candidate
DIY Oil Change - Post Game Wrapup
Originally Posted by BobsGX
Let us know if the center point under the front works fine with the floor jack.
I know its crazy, but I always buy the factory service manual for any vehicle I own.
I know its crazy, but I always buy the factory service manual for any vehicle I own.
Lessons learned...
1. Completely remove the skid panel rather than letting it hang. The extra space is nice, and it may eliminate the need to lift the GX (I'll try that next time).
2. Get an oil filter socket (or cap) to remove the oil filter. I could not use my old style filter wrenches because the roll bar and other stuff was in the way.
3. Invest in a crawler - I'm getting older and the filter and drain are rather far apart.
07-09-06, 05:18 AM
#23
Driver School Candidate
Skid Plate Hassle
Originally Posted by BobsGX
Did you notice that skid plate thing is rather difficult to R&R? Mine was. I hate that thing.
Another annoying thing is the $%#@ plastic rivet - why not another screw that could easily be removed like the other screws???
But, the most frustrating thing was reinstalling the metal skid plate. I had a bit of trouble because the bolt holes didn't line up correctly, requiring me to muscle the thing more that I wanted to. I think the problem is with the hinge hooks, and since I prefer to remove the skid plate entirely, I am thinking about cutting the hinge hooks off on a future oil change.
All of this extra labor (skid plate R&R, etc.) may be why Lexus charges more $ for an oil change. Personnally, I think manufacturers should make oil changes EASY, which would encourage frequent changes and reduce the cost of this frequent service. Not that I would use them, but I wonder if Jiffy Lubes and other quick change places charge more for GX oil changes because of the skid plate hassles.
And, while I'm complaining, I also have a problem with 5,000 mile dino oil intervals - I do not think it's advisable. However, synthetics can go for 10,000 or more miles. I will change my GX's oil every 5K miles while under warranty, but will use Mobil-1 and a high quality filter.
07-10-06, 06:39 AM
#24
Lexus Test Driver
Originally Posted by vgg659
Yes, it was. I do not know why Lexus didn't include a removable panel for the filter like they did for the drain plug, or mount the filter in a more convenient location.
Another annoying thing is the $%#@ plastic rivet - why not another screw that could easily be removed like the other screws???
But, the most frustrating thing was reinstalling the metal skid plate. I had a bit of trouble because the bolt holes didn't line up correctly, requiring me to muscle the thing more that I wanted to. I think the problem is with the hinge hooks, and since I prefer to remove the skid plate entirely, I am thinking about cutting the hinge hooks off on a future oil change.
All of this extra labor (skid plate R&R, etc.) may be why Lexus charges more $ for an oil change. Personnally, I think manufacturers should make oil changes EASY, which would encourage frequent changes and reduce the cost of this frequent service. Not that I would use them, but I wonder if Jiffy Lubes and other quick change places charge more for GX oil changes because of the skid plate hassles.
And, while I'm complaining, I also have a problem with 5,000 mile dino oil intervals - I do not think it's advisable. However, synthetics can go for 10,000 or more miles. I will change my GX's oil every 5K miles while under warranty, but will use Mobil-1 and a high quality filter.
Another annoying thing is the $%#@ plastic rivet - why not another screw that could easily be removed like the other screws???
But, the most frustrating thing was reinstalling the metal skid plate. I had a bit of trouble because the bolt holes didn't line up correctly, requiring me to muscle the thing more that I wanted to. I think the problem is with the hinge hooks, and since I prefer to remove the skid plate entirely, I am thinking about cutting the hinge hooks off on a future oil change.
All of this extra labor (skid plate R&R, etc.) may be why Lexus charges more $ for an oil change. Personnally, I think manufacturers should make oil changes EASY, which would encourage frequent changes and reduce the cost of this frequent service. Not that I would use them, but I wonder if Jiffy Lubes and other quick change places charge more for GX oil changes because of the skid plate hassles.
And, while I'm complaining, I also have a problem with 5,000 mile dino oil intervals - I do not think it's advisable. However, synthetics can go for 10,000 or more miles. I will change my GX's oil every 5K miles while under warranty, but will use Mobil-1 and a high quality filter.
CV
07-10-06, 10:19 AM
#25
Driver School Candidate
Originally Posted by CVsGX470
This is about the only thing that drives me completely nutts! The skid plate never lines back up correctly and you have to muscle it into place. There has to be an easier way!!
CV
CV
I'm thinking about drilling larger bolt holes in the skid plate. If your's is like mine, we only need a slightly larger hole for the bolt to line up perfectly with the threads.
07-10-06, 10:20 AM
#26
Lexus Champion
"Another annoying thing is the $%#@ plastic rivet - why not another screw that could easily be removed like the other screws???"
Many folks have trouble with the pop out center alignment pin.
The trick is to take two small flat screwdrivers, positioning them 180 degrees across from each other under the center pin. Twisting simultaneously, the center pin pops up, then the rivet pulls out.
Regarding the skid plate allignment, there is a single alignment bolt hole that is the size of the bolt, without any slot in the hole. This is the first screw installed, with one turn loose from snug.
The next bolts are also installed loosely, one turn from snug. This allows the plate to move on the bolts till all are preinstalled.
Then, starting with the first allignment bolt, snug them up from one corner across the plate. This is finger tight, plus an additional quarter turn. Too tight may crack a plastic cover.
Many folks have trouble with the pop out center alignment pin.
The trick is to take two small flat screwdrivers, positioning them 180 degrees across from each other under the center pin. Twisting simultaneously, the center pin pops up, then the rivet pulls out.
Regarding the skid plate allignment, there is a single alignment bolt hole that is the size of the bolt, without any slot in the hole. This is the first screw installed, with one turn loose from snug.
The next bolts are also installed loosely, one turn from snug. This allows the plate to move on the bolts till all are preinstalled.
Then, starting with the first allignment bolt, snug them up from one corner across the plate. This is finger tight, plus an additional quarter turn. Too tight may crack a plastic cover.
Last edited by Tammy; 07-10-06 at 10:31 AM.
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