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The 2uz-fe is like every other modern Toyota v8, or v6... Put any mobil 1 in it, change it at 5000, 7500, 10000, or 12500 miles - depending on dino vs synthetic & filtration - and it'll give great results, barring the engine is a lemon...

 

To remove the plastic rivet, use a flat head screwdriver. Insert the flat head into the side/top of the round middle part of the rivet and pry up. The center plastic slidescrew will slide out. Pull it all the way out and then you can remove the second part easily.

There really isn't a central point for jacking up the vehicle. I generally lay on my back in the garage when changing the oil. If I try to use a creeper there isn't quite enough room.

 

The Lexus service manual shows a spot under the GX where you can use a floor jack and lift the front of the GX up. You would put the lift pad right under the center of the crossmember under the skid plate. I just don't think the skid plate is strong enough to hold up the GX without crushing the skid plate. But I do see that there is a reinforcement in between the skidplate and the crossmember, so I guess it would work. I just don't want to be the one to try it.
If I ever decide to get an oil & filter change done at the dealer, I'll ask the tech while its up on the lift.
Or are there any Lexus techs in here who can confirm this?

 

Well, I have ramps, but I hate using them because I'm scared of causing a lot of damage getting on them (and falling off). I would much rather use my floor jack and stands to lift the GX. I too am worried about using the floor jack in the area you identified, but I am inclined to use it given that the shop manual identifies this spot. I have seen the reinforcement, too. If Lexus put it there, it must be OK.

I feel that I need to lift the GX to get better access to the oil filter, and prevent a rather large mess. I find the skid plate to be particularly annoying and difficult to deal with while the GX is on the ground. I will tackle this project this weekend, so wish me luck I (either with the floor jack or the ramps!).

Do you find the service manual to be informative? I usually do minimal mechanical work, but I do things like brakes, oil changes, etc.

 

Let us know if the center point under the front works fine with the floor jack.
I know its crazy, but I always buy the factory service manual for any vehicle I own.

 

I used the ramps this time, but after thoroughly reviewing the center point support, I have no fear about using the center support with my floor jack. Either way, the extra room was beneficial, particularly for my initial oil change.

Lessons learned...
1. Completely remove the skid panel rather than letting it hang. The extra space is nice, and it may eliminate the need to lift the GX (I'll try that next time).
2. Get an oil filter socket (or cap) to remove the oil filter. I could not use my old style filter wrenches because the roll bar and other stuff was in the way.
3. Invest in a crawler - I'm getting older and the filter and drain are rather far apart.

 

Did you notice that skid plate thing is rather difficult to R&R? Mine was. I hate that thing.

 

Yes, it was. I do not know why Lexus didn't include a removable panel for the filter like they did for the drain plug, or mount the filter in a more convenient location.

Another annoying thing is the $%#@ plastic rivet - why not another screw that could easily be removed like the other screws???

But, the most frustrating thing was reinstalling the metal skid plate. I had a bit of trouble because the bolt holes didn't line up correctly, requiring me to muscle the thing more that I wanted to. I think the problem is with the hinge hooks, and since I prefer to remove the skid plate entirely, I am thinking about cutting the hinge hooks off on a future oil change.

All of this extra labor (skid plate R&R, etc.) may be why Lexus charges more $ for an oil change. Personnally, I think manufacturers should make oil changes EASY, which would encourage frequent changes and reduce the cost of this frequent service. Not that I would use them, but I wonder if Jiffy Lubes and other quick change places charge more for GX oil changes because of the skid plate hassles.

And, while I'm complaining, I also have a problem with 5,000 mile dino oil intervals - I do not think it's advisable. However, synthetics can go for 10,000 or more miles. I will change my GX's oil every 5K miles while under warranty, but will use Mobil-1 and a high quality filter.

 

This is about the only thing that drives me completely nutts! The skid plate never lines back up correctly and you have to muscle it into place. There has to be an easier way!!

CV

 

I thought it was just my skid plate. Misery loves company.

I'm thinking about drilling larger bolt holes in the skid plate. If your's is like mine, we only need a slightly larger hole for the bolt to line up perfectly with the threads.

 

"Another annoying thing is the $%#@ plastic rivet - why not another screw that could easily be removed like the other screws???"

Many folks have trouble with the pop out center alignment pin.

The trick is to take two small flat screwdrivers, positioning them 180 degrees across from each other under the center pin. Twisting simultaneously, the center pin pops up, then the rivet pulls out.


Regarding the skid plate allignment, there is a single alignment bolt hole that is the size of the bolt, without any slot in the hole. This is the first screw installed, with one turn loose from snug.

The next bolts are also installed loosely, one turn from snug. This allows the plate to move on the bolts till all are preinstalled.

Then, starting with the first allignment bolt, snug them up from one corner across the plate. This is finger tight, plus an additional quarter turn. Too tight may crack a plastic cover.