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Any idea how far you need to rotate counterclockwise? I’ve got it loose and it pulled out the first inch or so. I rotated and pulled and haven’t been able to get it to release easily. I have moved it around 1/4 turn, maybe a little less. Do I need to work it past the bolt that the corner hits on the bottom when you rotate before it will come loose? Any suggestions on how far to rotateand how hard you need to pull would be great. I’m assuming it needs to rotate more, but wanted to check before over doing it. Thanks.
It has been over a year and 30.000 miles since I replaced my o-ring with no problems. I can't remember how far I had to turn it. Mine slid back and off rather easy so I believe it had been done before. The first time removing it probably cracks the plastic allowing it to slide off easily. Again 30,000 miles later works good and no more leaking.
Anyone know the part number (or if its even available) of the round plastic piece that is held on by the single screw in the picture below (from post 115 if it doesn't show up)? Mine was pretty warped and the edge of it that sandwiches the o ring is cracking in multiple spots and peeling loose. If its not available, any ideas, or do you think it will still seal up just fine? Also, if someone just has the part off an old one that is no longer being used, I'd be interested in that too!
[QUOTE=470reasons;8391096]Seal locations:
Attachment 425821
There is only 1 rack oil seal. That bottom hole is a blank. Nothing goes there.
Running into this problem on my 2003 GX470 with about 81k on it. Took it to a local independent Lexus/Acura mechanic and they wouldn't work on it and recommended Certified Transmissions. I gave the mechanic a quick run down on the different suggestions I've seen on this thread. When I ran the counter clockwise turn method that gxman1 described above he kinda gave me a look of "well, ok, good luck with that". I did buy an extended warranty that will cover this so I will probably just used Certified Transmissions to do the job. I'll keep you posted on the costs.
Update after my visit to Certified Transmissions. They said they would probably need to put on a new Transfer Case, though the guy I talked to is investigating opening up the current one and doing the O-Ring and Seals, but he said he didn't think they could do that. I do have a warranty so, I'm all like..."cool, no biggie, what's the damage?" He tells me the warranty company caps it at $1500 (this is wrong as my contract explicitly states $2000 for transmission/transaxle/transfer case claims is the max, but whatever), he says the labor is $639.50 for 7.5 hours, "ok cool" a new transfer case is $3000!!!!!!! I thought no effin way and started researching them and yeah, $3k. They're willing to put a used one on or one I find but that voids warranties and my biggest concern is I get a used one with the old o ring and seal on it and we're back at square one, however many miles for now.
Sooooo, I've called a local hendrick Lexus dealer and I'm going to take it in and I'm hoping they can do the fix on the current transfer case. Fingers crossed or I may end up rolling the dice on a used transfer case.
[QUOTE=mleichty;10288537]Anyone know the part number (or if its even available) of the round plastic piece that is held on by the single screw in the picture below (from post 115 if it doesn't show up)? Mine was pretty warped and the edge of it that sandwiches the o ring is cracking in multiple spots and peeling loose. If its not available, any ideas, or do you think it will still seal up just fine? Also, if someone just has the part off an old one that is no longer being used, I'd be interested in that too!
The final resolution. Took the Lexus to the local Hendrick dealership and they swapped out the O Ring and seals. Just north of $1800 for the work. I had an extended warranty that covered it with a $100 deductible. Apparently the dealerships are the only one's willing to go in and pull apart the transfer case and actuator to do the fix. Otherwise, the other places (Certified Transmissions at least) want to swap out for a new transfer case.
Anyone know the part number (or if its even available) of the round plastic piece that is held on by the single screw in the picture below (from post 115 if it doesn't show up)? Mine was pretty warped and the edge of it that sandwiches the o ring is cracking in multiple spots and peeling loose. If its not available, any ideas, or do you think it will still seal up just fine? Also, if someone just has the part off an old one that is no longer being used, I'd be interested in that too!
See if this lists the part you need
When pulling that actuator out you have to remove the 36311G clips right??? Meaning you have to pop open your transfer case, remove retaining clips, then slide the actuator out to access that O ring.
The warranty I bought was $2400, I believe. I'm pretty sure I got worked over on it so live and learn. It had a couple of items in it that make it a not great warranty. My xfer case/transmission claims are capped at $2000, drive axle at $1500 and engine at $3000. So, should anything else go wrong with the tranny or xfer case, I'm pretty much on my own as I've used up about the whole cap. Hopefully that Toyota quality plays out for the remaining life of the car. It only has 81k miles which is super low for it being a 2003.
The final resolution. Took the Lexus to the local Hendrick dealership and they swapped out the O Ring and seals. Just north of $1800 for the work. I had an extended warranty that covered it with a $100 deductible. Apparently the dealerships are the only one's willing to go in and pull apart the transfer case and actuator to do the fix. Otherwise, the other places (Certified Transmissions at least) want to swap out for a new transfer case.
Jesus!!! my toyota mechanic did the twist and pull on actuator and just replaced the o ring for $200. 15k miles later still doing good
Yeah, the only reason I didn't raise any stink is because I had a warranty and it only cost me the $100 deductible. Honestly, the only worthwhile thing I got out of the dealership is a free loaner. I guess the big drawback is I've burned up most of my available transmission warranty money on this fix so I hope I never run into any other transmission issues.
The dealership did one of their full checks and told me my radiator was leaking and my drive axle boots are breaking down and throwing grease around. Neither of which my independent mechanic has ever noted. It's been cold as ***** here so I haven't had a chance to get underneath and take a look for myself but I've had no issues related to either of those and the warranty company rejected the potential claim on the radiator as it's "just leaking". I get the impression they were looking really hard for things to try to make a claim on but like I said, I haven't looked for myself yet to see what I'm dealing with. If the drive axle needs work, I may take a run at that myself.
08-21-18 | 05:40 PM
