10S .... can you post me the seal snap, I will try and arrange for you, from my vendors in Singapore and ask them to ship it to you, This would be at my cost, Now coming to the Seal, I am bit confused with where you are mentioning is the leak and as far I know it is the O ring which cracks and the actuator cause for oil leak, Hope you dont mind, post me some snaps.

 

Sorry to ressurect an old thread. I just bought a 2003 gx and it is leaking a little oil from what I believe is the transfer case. I imagine that it is the same o-ring issue that has been discussed here. I was wondering if anybody has any more information on the part, i.e. where to find it or the part number. I was hoping to try that first to see if it solves the leak issue. Thanks in advance.

 

My 04 Gx's transfer case started leaking a couple weeks ago,
the local dealer confirmed it, and acknowledged there's a TSIB regarding it, (Mann77 had also posted the TSIB #TC007-06 on this site before) but my warranty expired Sept 09,the cost of repair estimated about $1000 .
After calling Lexus Customer satisfaction center, they offered
100% coverage for goodwill.
The service advisor said there's a rebuild kit available for this problem, maybe you should check it out, the kit is around $100 - $130, it's the labor that costs the most.
I am very grateful for Lexus' assistance, Lexus will forever be on my car shopping list.

 

I discovered the same leak on my 03' 4Runner Sport (189K mi V8) this afternoon. I know it's not a lexus but I believe it's the same actuator as your GX.

On mine, I was able to remove the actuator w\out splitting the case. My actuator assembly pulled away from the transfercase w\relative ease. I quickly found the bad seal but was obviously unable to fix, so I put it back together by slipping the actuator over the shafts. I didn't have any issues doing it this way and 4wd still works.

I'm just trying to understand why you have to split the cases apart?? Is it because you run the risk of damaging the new seal?? Thanks for the help.

 

That is because the Seal housing sits within a cap , that is connected to the Shaft. Here is the Snap if this is what you meant. The shaft has got ribbed tooth which needs to seated within the actuator gear, This will not work, I mean the 4x4 Drive, the electric motor within does not sent the signal to the ECM, though they are connected, as there is mis alignment, This is a long drawn process wherein you need to move the cog wheel within clockwise till they are seated completely. Here it will explain to you the snaps.

 

Thanks for the answers Mann. I talked with a yota tech today and he basically explained the same as you did. He said those shafts are not supposed to be pulled out of the actuator. He says that I was very lucky to get everything back in alignment again. Too bad I still have the leak though.

Here are the 2 options I'm looking at;

- Replace the entire transfer case with a low mileage unit from my local salvage yard for about $700.

- Buy a used actuator from a salvage yard and replace mine for about $200.

- Try to find lexus kit w\replacement seals and o-ring. But now I'm not sure if I've damaged my actuator.

How long can I continue to drive it w\the leak? Will it go dry?

Is tearing down the transfer case difficult? I would think that my first option would be the easiest. Thoughts?

 

can anyone tell me how much it cost to fix this ? mine is 114K miles already, so obviously no warranty on it. I read somewhere lexus dealer want $1000 for this ?

 

It will cost max 10 bucks and lots of patience and beer down for the DIY.

 

I got an 04 GX470 with 78k miles, and my transfer case is started to leak. After reading all the posts in the transfer case leak thread, I am confused which part caused the oil leaking? Is it the O ring with PN 90301-56009, or the oil seal with the 23 mm OD? Any way I went to the Lexus dealer and bought the PN 90301-56009 O ring and they told me that they don't carry the oil seal. If I just replace the o ring, would that fix the leak?

 

I took my GX to the shop today to replace the O ring PN 90301-56009. Well it only takes about 10 minutes to swap out the O ring on the transfer case actuator. Look like there are only three 12 mm bolts that bolt the actuator to the transfer case and one harness that need to be disconnect in order to lower the actuator to swap out the O ring. I swear that I could perform this job by myself in my garage, but it is nice to have a lift to do it though. BTW, I have the mechanic changed out the transfer case fluid too, I bought the Mobile 1 synthetic 75 w 90. It take him longer to fill up the fluid then swap out that O ring, his pump broke so he has to squeeze the bottle by hands, lol.

I drove the vehicle for 50 miles now, and so far no leak but knock on wood. The dealer wanted $850 to fix this leak and that with the discount. May be because I did not bring the service manager any cookies, lol.

The owner of the shop, my old friend did not charge me anything. We just went out and have a nice lunch. PM me if you have any question.

 

That's amazing and I don't get it,the last time local Lexus dealer that fixed my GX transfer case leak, they kept the car for one day, after I got it back, I looked under the car, the transf cx had been opened up, based on the new pink RTV sealant around it,so it obviously was not a simple quick job,may be we had different kind of leaking from different cause?
They quoted $1000 to fix, but in the end was covered by lexus corporate for good will.free for me.

 

Are you talking about the same part? The transfercase has to be opened up to replace the part correctly. It's not a simple job.

 

Yes, I have replaced the O ring PN 90301-56009 on the transfer case actuator like what I mentioned from my previous post. So far so good after more than 100 miles, but knock on wood. But if somebody want to pay the stealership about $1K to perform the TSB TC007-06 then go ahead.

I did a google search before take my GX to the shop, and found a very interesting thread that are talking about the transfer case leak, read post #9.
http://forum.ih8mud.com/120-series-t...case-leak.html

 

tim003

I am confused. I have the same problem with an oil leak coming from the actuator. I have read the post that you supplied the link too. Here the part number referenced to was an O ring but the picture below says and oil seal.
The picture also shows an Oil seal (23mm OD) so did you follow the steps in the link and replace an O-ring? Did you have to pull the actuator out from the transfer case to replace the O-Ring?


Thanks

 

Confused? Why wouldn't you?

I am just kidding, I knew the feeling because I was confused too. All I did was replaced the O ring PN 90301-56009 on the actuator that I purchased from the Lexus dealer (the clerk told me that he sold a whole punch of these O rings thru out the years).

To replace this O ring, you need to unbolt the actuator from the transfer case. Yes, I followed the instructions on the post #9 on the link that I provided from the previous post. After you unbolt the acuator then you will see the O ring right away. The 23 mm oil seal is located inside the actuator in which you have to take actuator cap off to get to it, NO I DID NOT REPLACE IT YET, and hopefully I would not have to.

Read the post #9 from ih8mud.com CAREFULLY:

Hey , i worked for lexus for 20 years untill i retired and moved to utah . and have replaced that o ring quite a few times .By the book you must remove and split the case as the shaft has a circlip on the inside . I have not ever seen that seal in the picture , it is just the o ring that is leaking . With caution i will add the folowing . It is possible to to remove the accuator without spliting the case . we played with this at the dealer as a way to beat the warranty time . I even had to replace the one on the wifes gx470 last year . but it is not for the squeemish . You have to remove the shield ,remove the mount bolts ,unplug the connecter ,now the tricky part , pull it backgentley untill it stops then rotate it to un hook the pinion from the rack ( the rod has teeth on it like a steering rack ) and pull it out , sometimes they crackle and pop . but all the ones we have done 200+ and mine nothing bad happpened ,. then replace the o ring and re install it the way it was twisted to make it let go, and push it back in, again it makes some bad sounds but it should be ok .Inspect the level in the transfer case . and drive it in all the ranges . Please do no mess with the WS fluid it is a PITA to establish the correct level even when you have the tool to read the Trans data list .
I have performed the job the factory way ,and this way and after tearing down the accuator of a bad unit could see how ,it is just a plastic gizzmo and if not carefull you can break it .
This info is just for conversation on how it can be done . please dont try if it if you arnt willing to break a few eggs . but i will bet this is how the dealer is will do it if you take it there .
I lurk around sometimes but reitrement and 2 young kids keeps me off the web , if someone needs help ask around, i can be found .
hope this helps
fj55-100