Timing Belt - Questions, Concerns, Comments
#47
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[QUOTE=new2005GX;7712670]Doing this job myself in the spring. Will take some pics. Plan on following the diy for the tundra 4.7 that is floating around in conjunction with the fsm.. I have all the tools the space and a spare vehicle. Only thing I need is time! Nowhere have I read that you need to cut the old belt, it should come right off after you remove the tensioner.[/QUOTE
Just did this job over the weekend. All I can say is it is a major job and you better be a decent mechanic before taking it on. Most of it is pretty straightforward, it is even hard to mix up bolts and what not because everything only fits in where it belongs.
I got hung up several times trying remove a few individual bolts and as you all know, one stuck or hard to reach bolt can take you some time to figure out. AC compressor was a ***** as was the fan clutch. I got tripped up also on the belt reinstall as the cams kept moving on me but in the end I figured it out. Worst part was I put everything back together and forgot the fan shroud!! After two long days I was very tired and just wanted the job to be done so that is what happens.
Crank pully was easy after buying a chain wrench and I also picked up the Haynes manual which came in handy a few times.
My advice is unless you are really strapped for cash, pay someone else to destroy their knuckles and forearms. As a side note, I opted to leave the radiator in place as there is plenty of clearance with it in but the job would definitely be easier with it out. Still need to finish adding coolant (a lot spills out of the block so drain what you can ahead of time), covers, skid plates etc.
The first time I tried to start it the truck stalled. Forgot that my truck will not start the first time after battery has been removed. Almost had a heart attack imagining pistons colliding with valves. Next time though, she started right up and purred like a kitten! No more squeaking and sounded very good. Old belt had some wear, in one area in particular (weakest link?) But I could see it lasting another 20k miles easily. Accessory belt was decent too but opted to change that along with water pump, tensioner, TB pulleys, tstat, etc.
If anyone has any specific questions let me know. Sorry no pics. I was too greasy most of the time to want to handle my phone plus just wanted to get the damn thing done.
Just did this job over the weekend. All I can say is it is a major job and you better be a decent mechanic before taking it on. Most of it is pretty straightforward, it is even hard to mix up bolts and what not because everything only fits in where it belongs.
I got hung up several times trying remove a few individual bolts and as you all know, one stuck or hard to reach bolt can take you some time to figure out. AC compressor was a ***** as was the fan clutch. I got tripped up also on the belt reinstall as the cams kept moving on me but in the end I figured it out. Worst part was I put everything back together and forgot the fan shroud!! After two long days I was very tired and just wanted the job to be done so that is what happens.
Crank pully was easy after buying a chain wrench and I also picked up the Haynes manual which came in handy a few times.
My advice is unless you are really strapped for cash, pay someone else to destroy their knuckles and forearms. As a side note, I opted to leave the radiator in place as there is plenty of clearance with it in but the job would definitely be easier with it out. Still need to finish adding coolant (a lot spills out of the block so drain what you can ahead of time), covers, skid plates etc.
The first time I tried to start it the truck stalled. Forgot that my truck will not start the first time after battery has been removed. Almost had a heart attack imagining pistons colliding with valves. Next time though, she started right up and purred like a kitten! No more squeaking and sounded very good. Old belt had some wear, in one area in particular (weakest link?) But I could see it lasting another 20k miles easily. Accessory belt was decent too but opted to change that along with water pump, tensioner, TB pulleys, tstat, etc.
If anyone has any specific questions let me know. Sorry no pics. I was too greasy most of the time to want to handle my phone plus just wanted to get the damn thing done.
#48
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Hello Everyone. I wanted to share my experience about changing the timing belt of my 2005 LX470. I changed mine at 176K miles. I bought the parts from EBAY and took it to my mechanic, and he told me that you changed the belt in time because the water pump started to show signs of wear and started to leak. However I looked at the timing belt and didnt find any cracks. Mechanic told me that there is still 70% life left in it.
So if you are in the market to get the timing belt changed, please make sure you change the water pump as well. Please note that I live in Canada and drive it as a family vehicle. Bought it 12 years ago with 57K miles (not KM, imported from USA) still running fine. But not as strong as when I bought it. Showing signs of age. But I know it will still touch 200K. Perhaps I will post again how the vehicle is performing. So far so good.
So if you are in the market to get the timing belt changed, please make sure you change the water pump as well. Please note that I live in Canada and drive it as a family vehicle. Bought it 12 years ago with 57K miles (not KM, imported from USA) still running fine. But not as strong as when I bought it. Showing signs of age. But I know it will still touch 200K. Perhaps I will post again how the vehicle is performing. So far so good.
#49
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I have searched this and other forums and cannot get a clear answer...I know that the 2005 and up GX470 models have variable valve engines (VVTi). It even says so right there on the engine cover. The question is, is the same true for the 2003-2004 models? Are the 2003-2004 models non-inference and thus, not susceptible to catastrophic damage in the event of a timing belt failure? I know that one big reason is that most GX470s certainly are interference engines and thus, everyone chimes in that it's true for all models. But I've also read enough about earlier models that makes me kind of doubt that this is true with all models. Anyone have an answer and a legitimate source?
#50
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'03-'04 do not have vvti for sure.
#52
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Thanks. I've seen those threads and I'm not sure I'd call them conclusive. Especially when I read so-called "Toyota master mechanics" say they're non-interference. I guess in the end it doesn't matter as I'm going to treat them as interference in terms of changing my timing belt as scheduled. I was just looking for some peace of mind in the event of an early failure.
#53
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Thanks. I've seen those threads and I'm not sure I'd call them conclusive. Especially when I read so-called "Toyota master mechanics" say they're non-interference. I guess in the end it doesn't matter as I'm going to treat them as interference in terms of changing my timing belt as scheduled. I was just looking for some peace of mind in the event of an early failure.
I used the AISIN kit. I also replaced the Power Steering Pump, some of the hard and soft lines and Res, Drive Belt Tensioner, Front Main Seal, Harmonic Balancer, etc.
Did a 3" Icon Stage 5 Lift and added Metal Tech front/rear bumpers and rock sliders. Next up is a car stereo... which is plaguing me currently.
#54
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The Toyota FIPG is pretty good. I needed a couple of dabs when I replaced valve cover gaskets. Comes with a key to squeeze the tube.
Chip H.
Chip H.
#55
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Hi, my 03 GX had timing belt replaced seems like my gas mileage is worse, also feel like it does not have as much power as before and I noticed a couple times where it took a few seconds longer to actually start. I would think if the belt was off by a tooth i would get a light on, but could the timing itself be off and need adjusted, hard to do myself?
I did add a rack on top and we raised the truck with Bilstein 5100's, so those two things could be causing gas mileage, but just does not seem to have same power and the starting taking longer has me concerned. It only starts that way every once in awhile, so may all be in my head.
I did add a rack on top and we raised the truck with Bilstein 5100's, so those two things could be causing gas mileage, but just does not seem to have same power and the starting taking longer has me concerned. It only starts that way every once in awhile, so may all be in my head.
#56
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A rack alone will cause a mileage hit, 100%. A lift doesn't help either, but a rack is a much bigger impact IMO.
Did you replace the tires with something bigger or heavier as well? That could explain the power concerns easily.
Did you replace the tires with something bigger or heavier as well? That could explain the power concerns easily.
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chiph9 (05-22-21)
#57
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Thanks, no tire changes yet. I just wonder if timing is off, with the fuel mileage, the power, and every once in awhile it takes a few seconds more to start than normal. May all be coincidence though. Could timing be off after timing belt change? I would think the teeth or lined up or would have already had big problem I suspect. I have driven it maybe 1,000 miles since belt.
#58
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I agree on rack, I figured that would pull my gas mileage down, I have had the truck for many years, but my 19 year old son wanted it to turn into overland so we did all this work to it, and added the rack, and ladder for the look.
#59
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I just had my TB and Camshaft seals replaced and it now sounds like a diesel engine its rattling so badly. Luckily I have recordings of just before taking it in and just after getting it back today.
Input from anyone with knowledge of what they're hearing would be great so I can get back to the shop with specifics of what the noise is coming from.
Before:
After:
Input from anyone with knowledge of what they're hearing would be great so I can get back to the shop with specifics of what the noise is coming from.
Before:
After:
#60
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Have it towed back and get them to look at it. Something mechanical is not right.
Tell them to borescope the cylinders and look for evidence of valves impacting the pistons.
Chip H.
Tell them to borescope the cylinders and look for evidence of valves impacting the pistons.
Chip H.