I have a shimmy motion in the steering wheel at highway speeds only between a certain window of speed. Is this a balancing issue? Alignment? Or did a problem just get magnified due to the weight of the wheels.

 

Probably due to the balancing, I have 22 for 3 years now and not a single problem.

 

not always due to balancing. do you have hub rings?

 

if it is at higher speeds it is balancing, if you had a out of round or centering issue it would be more noticable up 40-50mph i would get them balanced and if that fails look for someone with a road force machine. because the aftermarket wheels have high and low spots that should be matched with the tire

 

What are hub rings? Are they those plastic centering rings? If so, then no.

 

The truck wanders around a bit, especially in the crown of the road at low speed. I wonder if my toe in/out should be readjusted? The tires are 305's so they are wide.

 

If your rims offset is anywhere above 45 that is when it will effect your toe. Most aftermarket wheels that fit are either going to be a 108MM Hub or 110mm. If the wheel fits in perfectly then it is a 108MM and more than likely a balance issue. If it is 110MM, it may be because of that but is still a balance issue unless you have what is stated above for offset. Depending on how long you had the rims on, are you seeing signs of wear on the tire?

 

The wheels have an offset of +18 I believe. I had them road forced and still the same. I am thinking it is the rotors. The rotors were warped prior to the wheels and I think the weight of the new wheels magnified the problem. Unless the alignment is off.

 

Minor point: Wheel offset doesn't affect toe.

That doesn't mean that a different offset or tire-width won't exacerbate drivability issues relating to toe being off of spec. It might. Just wanted to counter the notion that wheel offset had anything to do w/toe.

Toe is simply:
- distance between (left and right sides of the car) the rear edges of the wheels, minus
- distance between the front edges of the wheels

If positive, then "toe in"
If negative, then "toe out"

 

Went to get alignment. They took one look and said, no way. The attachments used to put on the rims would scratch them and they didn't want to be liable. It was a hunter machine. I wonder if an old school machine would do as good of a job.

 

The gx has a 108mm hub, right? So if the rim has a 108, then its an ideal fit? What if its off by 1mm? Can I get rings that thin?

 

Do you still have the orig rims? if so, put them back on and go get the alignment. Then bolt on the new rims. The rims have nothing to do w/the alignment.

 

I assumed the further the wheels are from the vehicle the more leverage there is and the toe will go positive.

 

I think you may be confusing Toe with Camber. Yes, in obscene cases moving a wheel “out” and widening track can create more leverage on the suspension and affect camber. This affect will be either positive or negative based on the camber curve of the suspension (if you compress the suspension, does the top of the tire tilt in or out?).
Toe is a measure of whether or not the wheels on a given axle are “pointing” in the same direction. Zero toe means they’re both pointing exactly forward. Toe “out”, means just that. Imagine twisting your feet such that your toes point slightly “out”. Toe “in” is the opposite. Toe settings can definitely affect how well a car tracks; especially on uneven/crowned surfaces.

 

108mm Hub Bore. That I know of, there are only two sizes that manufacturers use 108 and 110mm. If you happen to come across a 107 Hub, it will be tight getting it in. This is one of the dilemma's of finding rims for this vehicle. It shares the same bolt pattern as a silverado, Armada, and most popular SUV's (Excluding Dodge and Ford) but the hub bore is the limiting factor. You can use adapters but the lowest you can get is 1.25". That puts another 31mm to the offset. Using a 1" will have a clearance problem with the bolts. Overall, the choice is yours but there are rims that can fit without using a adaptor.