'Clack' sound when braking
02-23-12, 08:08 PM
#17
When I read "This fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have fully cooled. A strong smell from the brakes, and even some smoke, is normal" all I can think is "You're getting damn close to boiling your DOT 3 factory fluid that isn't meant for this ****"
Last edited by RandomTech; 02-23-12 at 08:17 PM.
02-23-12, 09:59 PM
#18
02-23-12, 10:00 PM
#19
Drive it like normal, follow OEM instructions and ignore all the internet anecdotes about how much better street pads are when you bed them in.
When I read "This fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have fully cooled. A strong smell from the brakes, and even some smoke, is normal" all I can think is "You're getting damn close to boiling your DOT 3 factory fluid that isn't meant for this ****"
When I read "This fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have fully cooled. A strong smell from the brakes, and even some smoke, is normal" all I can think is "You're getting damn close to boiling your DOT 3 factory fluid that isn't meant for this ****"
02-25-12, 08:26 PM
#20
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: TN
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Bedding in pads is absolutely required for racing compounds. The heat cycles seems to "cure" the material that holds the friction material in the shape of the brake pad. This is a must. I've ruined a couple sets of Hawk Performance pads by not heat cycling them properly. But, for regular, street compounds, it is a bit of hype. Hard braking may, perhaps, shape the pad so that it matches the grooves of old rotors faster giving you more surface area for more bite, quicker. By all means, if your pads came with specific bedding procedures, follow them.
Did you brake clean the faces of the new rotors to remove the oil coating from the factory? Light braking for both new and old pads can cause glazing on the rotors. I like to give my brakes a nice long, hard application every once in a while to clean the surfaces of the pads and the rotors, especially when I start hearing some noise from the brakes.
This was the first thing I'd do to customer's cars when they brought them to us for squeaky brakes.
Another thing I do is when I reach the end of an exit ramp and am stopped at the light. I let the car roll a bit and reapply the brakes with just enough pressure to hold the car, no more, repeat. This allows the rotor to move a bit so the "hot spot" under the pads can move to cool off. I have not had warped rotors in any of my vehicles after I started this little habit.
The clank the OP is experiencing is for sure caused by the pad moving around in the carrier. I always use brake spray adhesive on the backs of the pads so that they don't vibrate and squeak or in this case, clank as they move around. All Pagid and Jurid pads for Porsches came with double stick shims to glue the pads into the calipers. Now, Porsche doesn't utilize floating pads in a carriers but the pads did still float in the caliper held in place by two pins and yes, they can be very noisy brakes without the shims.
Did you brake clean the faces of the new rotors to remove the oil coating from the factory? Light braking for both new and old pads can cause glazing on the rotors. I like to give my brakes a nice long, hard application every once in a while to clean the surfaces of the pads and the rotors, especially when I start hearing some noise from the brakes.
This was the first thing I'd do to customer's cars when they brought them to us for squeaky brakes.
Another thing I do is when I reach the end of an exit ramp and am stopped at the light. I let the car roll a bit and reapply the brakes with just enough pressure to hold the car, no more, repeat. This allows the rotor to move a bit so the "hot spot" under the pads can move to cool off. I have not had warped rotors in any of my vehicles after I started this little habit.
The clank the OP is experiencing is for sure caused by the pad moving around in the carrier. I always use brake spray adhesive on the backs of the pads so that they don't vibrate and squeak or in this case, clank as they move around. All Pagid and Jurid pads for Porsches came with double stick shims to glue the pads into the calipers. Now, Porsche doesn't utilize floating pads in a carriers but the pads did still float in the caliper held in place by two pins and yes, they can be very noisy brakes without the shims.
02-26-12, 04:49 PM
#23
Bedding in pads is absolutely required for racing compounds. The heat cycles seems to "cure" the material that holds the friction material in the shape of the brake pad. This is a must. I've ruined a couple sets of Hawk Performance pads by not heat cycling them properly. But, for regular, street compounds, it is a bit of hype. Hard braking may, perhaps, shape the pad so that it matches the grooves of old rotors faster giving you more surface area for more bite, quicker. By all means, if your pads came with specific bedding procedures, follow them.
Did you brake clean the faces of the new rotors to remove the oil coating from the factory? Light braking for both new and old pads can cause glazing on the rotors. I like to give my brakes a nice long, hard application every once in a while to clean the surfaces of the pads and the rotors, especially when I start hearing some noise from the brakes.
This was the first thing I'd do to customer's cars when they brought them to us for squeaky brakes.
Another thing I do is when I reach the end of an exit ramp and am stopped at the light. I let the car roll a bit and reapply the brakes with just enough pressure to hold the car, no more, repeat. This allows the rotor to move a bit so the "hot spot" under the pads can move to cool off. I have not had warped rotors in any of my vehicles after I started this little habit.
The clank the OP is experiencing is for sure caused by the pad moving around in the carrier. I always use brake spray adhesive on the backs of the pads so that they don't vibrate and squeak or in this case, clank as they move around. All Pagid and Jurid pads for Porsches came with double stick shims to glue the pads into the calipers. Now, Porsche doesn't utilize floating pads in a carriers but the pads did still float in the caliper held in place by two pins and yes, they can be very noisy brakes without the shims.
Did you brake clean the faces of the new rotors to remove the oil coating from the factory? Light braking for both new and old pads can cause glazing on the rotors. I like to give my brakes a nice long, hard application every once in a while to clean the surfaces of the pads and the rotors, especially when I start hearing some noise from the brakes.
This was the first thing I'd do to customer's cars when they brought them to us for squeaky brakes.
Another thing I do is when I reach the end of an exit ramp and am stopped at the light. I let the car roll a bit and reapply the brakes with just enough pressure to hold the car, no more, repeat. This allows the rotor to move a bit so the "hot spot" under the pads can move to cool off. I have not had warped rotors in any of my vehicles after I started this little habit.
The clank the OP is experiencing is for sure caused by the pad moving around in the carrier. I always use brake spray adhesive on the backs of the pads so that they don't vibrate and squeak or in this case, clank as they move around. All Pagid and Jurid pads for Porsches came with double stick shims to glue the pads into the calipers. Now, Porsche doesn't utilize floating pads in a carriers but the pads did still float in the caliper held in place by two pins and yes, they can be very noisy brakes without the shims.
02-26-12, 08:27 PM
#24
...I like to give my brakes a nice long, hard application ...This was the first thing I'd do to customer's cars when they brought them to us for squeaky brakes....
.... I always use brake spray adhesive on the backs of the pads so that they don't vibrate and squeak or in this case, clank as they move around....
...they can be very noisy brakes without the shims....
.... I always use brake spray adhesive on the backs of the pads so that they don't vibrate and squeak or in this case, clank as they move around....
...they can be very noisy brakes without the shims....
2) Toyota has a special high-temp lithium grease specifically for OEM pads and shims. They, in several TSB regarding brake noise, advise on only using this for their pads. An adhesive pulls the teflon anti-noise coating off of the factory shims.
3) The shims don't stop the pads moving around on the GX, the...
02-27-12, 10:34 AM
#25
1) Hard application will never fix a noise complaint, temporarily or permanently
2) Toyota has a special high-temp lithium grease specifically for OEM pads and shims. They, in several TSB regarding brake noise, advise on only using this for their pads. An adhesive pulls the teflon anti-noise coating off of the factory shims.
3) The shims don't stop the pads moving around on the GX, the...
2) Toyota has a special high-temp lithium grease specifically for OEM pads and shims. They, in several TSB regarding brake noise, advise on only using this for their pads. An adhesive pulls the teflon anti-noise coating off of the factory shims.
3) The shims don't stop the pads moving around on the GX, the...
06-06-12, 01:13 PM
#27
06-06-12, 09:41 PM
#28
Bought a 2004 GX470 a few months ago.
Took it into the local Toyota dealer for oil change (40+ miles to nearest Lexus)
They told me I needed to replace front brake pads, so I did that.
Immediately after they finished I noticed what I would describe as a clack or clank sound when pressing or releasing the brake pedal.
This sound was not there before. I went back inside and told them, the tech came out and listened and said it would probably go away.
I took the car back in a couple weeks later and they applied some type of lube which didn't help. The service rep said that the only way to remove sound was to replace some type of pin.
I'm sorry I am sort of ignorant here as I don't fully understand the mechanics of the system.
Does anyone know what sort of pin they would be referring to?
Is this legit that there was no sound before pad replacement and now there is?
Thank you for your time and knowledge. I'm sorry if this is the wrong forum for this question.
Took it into the local Toyota dealer for oil change (40+ miles to nearest Lexus)
They told me I needed to replace front brake pads, so I did that.
Immediately after they finished I noticed what I would describe as a clack or clank sound when pressing or releasing the brake pedal.
This sound was not there before. I went back inside and told them, the tech came out and listened and said it would probably go away.
I took the car back in a couple weeks later and they applied some type of lube which didn't help. The service rep said that the only way to remove sound was to replace some type of pin.
I'm sorry I am sort of ignorant here as I don't fully understand the mechanics of the system.
Does anyone know what sort of pin they would be referring to?
Is this legit that there was no sound before pad replacement and now there is?
Thank you for your time and knowledge. I'm sorry if this is the wrong forum for this question.
Could you check this Lip Protection which are behind the Brake Rotor, if they are bit loose, I mean Vertical Spin Wise and Horizointal. While Braking they do make a clank noise.
Once I had this when I had finished the brake set up and had to just to re-align as it was not seated properlyt. If you know what I mean. You need to tighten the Bolt/Nuts from the rear. Here is a image to understand that.
Last edited by mann777; 02-27-13 at 09:41 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
