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Continued the interior work. Took the console apart and painted it satin black, the shifter panel in matte champagne, leather boots in saddle brown. Even polished the gear indicator panel.
Last edited by Visualistics; 12-03-23 at 11:22 AM.
I installed some knock off "seat jacker" billet blocks to raise the front edge of the driver's seat. Install takes about 4min, I spent more time readjusting the seat afterwards.
Initial thoughts, it definitely feels different. Still making adjustments, but I think I'll like it in the long run. You really feel the front edge of the lower cushion on the backs of your upper legs compared to before, that's supposed to be the main benefit I believe, better support for long drives.
Replaced the driver's side window seal/beltline molding p/n 75712-60080. The rubber strip had torn and it was going to start letting water in.
Finding a replacement turned out to be more difficult than I expected. Neither mylparts.com or Amayama could get it for me. Dealer wanted $160 but since I knew they pulled from the same parts database as mylparts, they weren't going to be able to get it either. So I turned to eBay. There are definitely counterfeit parts on the site. If it's too cheap, or they don't show it in original Lexus packaging, it's counterfeit. But I was able to find an original part from "Auto Parts World" for about $60 shipped and it arrived within a week.
Replacement is time consuming but not super difficult. You have to remove the inside door panel (roll the window down first), then remove the outside mirror (three 10mm nuts and a clip).
There's a small black torx screw at the back of the door (above the latch), then you can use an angled pick tool from the inside of the door starting at the front to pull the plastic away from the steel, then lift up.
To install, snap the new part on (long end without the rubber strip goes towards the rear), replace the torx screw, then reassemble everything. Reset the auto-window switch and you're done.
Afterwards the window is a little slower because the new rubber strip is pushing against the glass, but I expect it to soften up with time and get back to the speed it used to be.
So I was JUST going to remove the rusty 3rd row seat attachments to wire brush and paint them and this happened.....LOL
For $50 it is well worth it. Sound from the gears are almost gone while driving and it insulates from cold and hot as well.
I have done that to previous vehicles, and it's hard work. I had to sacrifice a pair of shorts each time, as the butyl would seep around the edges of the aluminum and of course I would sit on it..
The floor definitely improves things. Doing the roof makes a large improvement as it is less rigid - afterwards it flexes less, so tighter bass.
Front wheel bearings. Did the CV shafts 6-8 months ago when one failed. Had to use part store axles as my son gets a sweet discount. Started making noise when turning right. Sort of a buzzing but no feedback in the steering. Figured the cheap part store CV shafts were going out. Swapped under warranty. No change in noise. Looked around and found a thread on another forum about wheel bearing inner seal springs coming loose during axle swap. Sure enough, lots of little pieces inside the race after taking out the bearing. Replaced with one Moog and one Doorman from RockAuto. No more noise. Not a bad job at all. Make sure you get out all the spring parts. No pics as rain was coming in and had to move quickly.
nice job on the wheels, i just picked up a near perfect set of 18" gx 460 wheels on ebay...cheaper than have old wheels powder coated. I had heard its not the paint...it's the metal alloy they used to make the old wheels.
I am sure of it. Had a 2008 Chrysler Town a Country, bought brand new, and had the same issue within a few year. Same style of wheel. Post a pic of your wheels. Would love to see them!
I am sure of it. Had a 2008 Chrysler Town a Country, bought brand new, and had the same issue within a few year. Same style of wheel. Post a pic of your wheels. Would love to see them!
11-26-23, 08:00 PM
