What did you do to your GX TODAY?
#526
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100k, yours is just getting broken in. you have another few 100k to be up there =)
Mine has about 250k on it and runs perfect.
Kingphillip gave you excellent advice, always do o2 sensors with your timing belt service and your car will be running in its best form.
o2 sensors only have a 60-100k service interval anyways, and almost never set off the check engine light until years of giving you bad gas mileage have gone by. you only need to do the upstream ones for performance and mpg's. rears only if you get the codes for them and a reset doesn't make them go away and stay away.
Mine has about 250k on it and runs perfect.
Kingphillip gave you excellent advice, always do o2 sensors with your timing belt service and your car will be running in its best form.
o2 sensors only have a 60-100k service interval anyways, and almost never set off the check engine light until years of giving you bad gas mileage have gone by. you only need to do the upstream ones for performance and mpg's. rears only if you get the codes for them and a reset doesn't make them go away and stay away.
#527
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I have 3 out of 4 original O2 sensors in my GS300 with 152,000 miles. I keep throttle body clean and run Redline si-1 in it with 93octane Shell gas. The GS350 has 105,000 and never had any issues there either.
#528
Driver School Candidate
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good to know. thanks.
I've had my GX probably longer than any other vehicle...except maybe my Land Rover Disco...but we won't talk about that here on the Lexus site. lol
I've had my GX probably longer than any other vehicle...except maybe my Land Rover Disco...but we won't talk about that here on the Lexus site. lol
#529
Lexus Champion
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burny why would you have 3 of the original 4 o2 sensors after 150k, the best o2 sensors on the market only last 100k, and by that amount of time you are usually taking a 10-15% hit in gas mileage.
http://www.autohausaz.com/html/emiss...n_sensors.html
also , you don't want to change just 1 o2 sensor if its the main upstream ones the engine uses for adjusting fueling, its a bad idea. basically half of your motor is running with the right air fuel ratio, and the other half would have a richer air fuel ratio. o2 sensors should be changed in pairs to keep things in balance. whenever you get a code for 1 upstream o2, you should change both, because likely they were both changed at the same time before (or both could be original), and if one is toast, well the other is basically toast too, just not enough to trip the check engine light but its certainly not operating like a new one.
http://www.autohausaz.com/html/emiss...n_sensors.html
also , you don't want to change just 1 o2 sensor if its the main upstream ones the engine uses for adjusting fueling, its a bad idea. basically half of your motor is running with the right air fuel ratio, and the other half would have a richer air fuel ratio. o2 sensors should be changed in pairs to keep things in balance. whenever you get a code for 1 upstream o2, you should change both, because likely they were both changed at the same time before (or both could be original), and if one is toast, well the other is basically toast too, just not enough to trip the check engine light but its certainly not operating like a new one.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 06-01-15 at 12:18 PM.
#531
Pole Position
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FYI, this is a "pintle" hitch, some you can put a ball in place of the lower jaw, but it's the jaw style hitch that's called a pintle, not the crossmember attachment style. The trailer side of a pintle setup is a metal hoop that fits into the jaw, popular in construction and other commercial uses, lots of articulation without binding. You've got a 2" receiver hitch there.
#532
Pole Position
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Yeah, Lexus named it wrong.
The pintle hitch is also very common on military vehicles because of the free articulation they can do.
Chip H.
The pintle hitch is also very common on military vehicles because of the free articulation they can do.
Chip H.
#533
Instructor
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trailer to tow the toys for me and some of my buddies...
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but ill mostly use it on family road trips to put luggage on a cargo carrier when the inside of the truck is full of people... something like this?
http://www.harborfreight.com/automot...ier-92655.html
yea I was just using the name that Lexus gave it to try and eliminate confusion...
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Views: 409
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but ill mostly use it on family road trips to put luggage on a cargo carrier when the inside of the truck is full of people... something like this?
http://www.harborfreight.com/automot...ier-92655.html
yea I was just using the name that Lexus gave it to try and eliminate confusion...
#534
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burny why would you have 3 of the original 4 o2 sensors after 150k, the best o2 sensors on the market only last 100k, and by that amount of time you are usually taking a 10-15% hit in gas mileage.
http://www.autohausaz.com/html/emiss...n_sensors.html
also , you don't want to change just 1 o2 sensor if its the main upstream ones the engine uses for adjusting fueling, its a bad idea. basically half of your motor is running with the right air fuel ratio, and the other half would have a richer air fuel ratio. o2 sensors should be changed in pairs to keep things in balance. whenever you get a code for 1 upstream o2, you should change both, because likely they were both changed at the same time before (or both could be original), and if one is toast, well the other is basically toast too, just not enough to trip the check engine light but its certainly not operating like a new one.
http://www.autohausaz.com/html/emiss...n_sensors.html
also , you don't want to change just 1 o2 sensor if its the main upstream ones the engine uses for adjusting fueling, its a bad idea. basically half of your motor is running with the right air fuel ratio, and the other half would have a richer air fuel ratio. o2 sensors should be changed in pairs to keep things in balance. whenever you get a code for 1 upstream o2, you should change both, because likely they were both changed at the same time before (or both could be original), and if one is toast, well the other is basically toast too, just not enough to trip the check engine light but its certainly not operating like a new one.
#535
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Mine are original as well with 140k. I average 17.1mpg in the summer driving 8 miles round trip to work. I'm not sure he's actually familiar with how air/fuel sensors work, they have a much longer life expectancy than 100k.
#536
Driver School Candidate
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Bedded in the brakes from this weekends brake upgrade (EBC Slotted/Dimpled Sport rotors x4 and EBC Greenstuff 7000 & 6000 pads). Could use a bleeding, so that is tomorrows task.
#537
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So you get 17 mpg on old o2 sensors and that is enough to tell me your o2 sensors must be good, and also that I am probably not familiar with how a air fuel sensor works. Thats some pretty good diagnostic skills there buddy, your evidence is um, well subjective.
I could bore you guys for days about the difference between narrowband o2 sensors and the newer wideband air fuel ratio sensors. I am fully aware of all the technical differences between the 2, and if you were too you would realize they are made out of essentially the same sensor but one has a gas pump to stabilize the output voltage so it doesn't switch like the older ones. this in no way makes the o2 sensor last longer, if anything it would last the same or less time due to the continuous output vs switching.
air fuel sensors do not have a longer life expectancy than 100k, and to be honest they go weak after 70-80k but no one changes them then. technically its supossed to be done with the timing belt and that varies from 60-120k depending on how much the person cares and what the car calls for.
and I never said they wouldn't work at 150k, they just aren't working efficiently like a new one would.
please keep your old sensors if it makes you happy, try 200k since you guys don't think they don't wear out like a normal sensor, heck maybe even push 300k, cause it works 100% until the light comes on right?? (not really though).
the recommended interval is still 100k no matter what your scanner tells you which has a really basic trip detection logic where the sensor must basically be inoperable to throw the code.
as the sensor wears out the output voltage will decrease until eventually it bottoms out the ecu's trip detection logic. emphasis on eventually.
Let use a beer analogy. lets say if you drink 10 beers you are drunk.
what happens when you have drank 9 beers? would you say you are just as efficient as when you had no beers in your system? if you did it would be hard to believe cause after one more beer you would be drunk.
you can technically say you are not drunk though, but you can't say you are operating with 100% efficiency.
I could bore you guys for days about the difference between narrowband o2 sensors and the newer wideband air fuel ratio sensors. I am fully aware of all the technical differences between the 2, and if you were too you would realize they are made out of essentially the same sensor but one has a gas pump to stabilize the output voltage so it doesn't switch like the older ones. this in no way makes the o2 sensor last longer, if anything it would last the same or less time due to the continuous output vs switching.
air fuel sensors do not have a longer life expectancy than 100k, and to be honest they go weak after 70-80k but no one changes them then. technically its supossed to be done with the timing belt and that varies from 60-120k depending on how much the person cares and what the car calls for.
and I never said they wouldn't work at 150k, they just aren't working efficiently like a new one would.
please keep your old sensors if it makes you happy, try 200k since you guys don't think they don't wear out like a normal sensor, heck maybe even push 300k, cause it works 100% until the light comes on right?? (not really though).
the recommended interval is still 100k no matter what your scanner tells you which has a really basic trip detection logic where the sensor must basically be inoperable to throw the code.
as the sensor wears out the output voltage will decrease until eventually it bottoms out the ecu's trip detection logic. emphasis on eventually.
Let use a beer analogy. lets say if you drink 10 beers you are drunk.
what happens when you have drank 9 beers? would you say you are just as efficient as when you had no beers in your system? if you did it would be hard to believe cause after one more beer you would be drunk.
you can technically say you are not drunk though, but you can't say you are operating with 100% efficiency.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 06-10-15 at 09:18 AM.
#538
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Ali - do you have the part # for a 2009 and best place to source them from?
I'm about to get 120k mile service done by an indie including oil and transmission fluid change so will get this done too. I experienced a sudden hit from 18 to 14 mpg around 100k miles for no reason. I've replaced the spark plugs, throttle cleaned and air filter replaced but did not notice any difference. I'll try your suggestion and see what happens.
I'm about to get 120k mile service done by an indie including oil and transmission fluid change so will get this done too. I experienced a sudden hit from 18 to 14 mpg around 100k miles for no reason. I've replaced the spark plugs, throttle cleaned and air filter replaced but did not notice any difference. I'll try your suggestion and see what happens.
#539
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I don't have the part number off the top of my head but I recently posted in another thread that had the infor listed it should be on the first page in this forum here about o2 sensors, it should be the same for all years as long as you have a gx470. there are 2 primary sensors though and they have different part numbers for left and right sides (length of wire is usually different not the sensor itself). for gas mileage you want to replace the upstream/primary/ pre-cat ones. the secondary or post cat o2 sensor can be replaced when you get the code, you dont have to change these as often because they are only used to see if the cat is still working and do not affect how the car runs.
#540
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Just chiming in with Ali; it's the same with spark plug wires, those won't throw a code unless the terminals are completely corroded or a wire is completely severed. But if you check the resistance of each wire if it's up to spec, after a 100k miles or so, it won't be in spec, or some wouldn't be. Bottom line is, the dealer or company have a guideline of when or how many miles every part breakdown that's why they have a to do list of recommended maintenance, and all this info is gathered from 100's of thousands of miles they test drive these vehicles. Makes me wonder how some of you guys would maintain older vehicles that doesn't have OBD sensors.