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Actually not today but over the Holiday season. Got some new rubber & rims for wife's ride!
Can't go wrong with FN FX Pro Wheels and Falken Wild Peak AT3w tires.
Actually not today but over the Holiday season. Got some new rubber & rims for wife's ride!
Can't go wrong with FN FX Pro Wheels and Falken Wild Peak AT3w tires.
DAKONA
Before & After
Looks great! Amazing what a good set of wheels can do to the look of your ride.
A repaired frame crack? Was the bump stop welded too?
No,the shock is broken.The threaded rod(for lack of a better word) attached to the shock that goes thru the frame securing it is gone.Replaced both rear shocks today.Easy peasy.
Replaced the stock cup holder section with this 3d printed abs plastic one. (purchases from a fellow enthusiast)
I think I'll do a bit of double sided tape on a couple of small flat surfaces since it doesn't have the stock clips to hold it in place like the stock one. In there pretty good, but I think a couple bits of tape will make me feel better, even if not needed.
Two items of note, it was easier than I knew to remove the original, just pull up stiffly...and time to vacuum under there. Probably 195k worth of dust/grime...ewww
How is this system working out for you so far? I'm looking to upgrade and I like this one a lot. Does it do Apple Car Play or just Android? Please let me know. Thanks.
The PHX Android should support both with their latest code release. Plug in your crapple and voila, your thingy device is now on the screen.
It's the go-to upgrade for these vehicles that came with a cassette deck and a cd changer in the glove box.
New timing belt, water pump, front cv boot and axel, and interior and engine filters.
Old timing belt was in perfect condition, slightly shiny but no wear and tear.
Hopefully, I'll soon get to drive further than the grocery!
No,the shock is broken.The threaded rod(for lack of a better word) attached to the shock that goes thru the frame securing it is gone.Replaced both rear shocks today.Easy peasy.
Yes, I see that too and that's fixable, but why does the frame look like it was split or cracked?
New timing belt, water pump, front cv boot and axel, and interior and engine filters.
Old timing belt was in perfect condition, slightly shiny but no wear and tear.
Hopefully, I'll soon get to drive further than the grocery!
Keep Safe!
I just had the timing belt service done too. Second time!
Had them do water pump, thermostat, tensioner, idler pulleys, and front main seal (cheap, compared to the labor to get to it).
I just had the timing belt service done too. Second time!
Had them do water pump, thermostat, tensioner, idler pulleys, and front main seal (cheap, compared to the labor to get to it).
I should be good for another 6-7 years now.
Chip H.
What is "front main seal"? Is that the crank seal?
My 2006 is on set #3. On #2 I decided to replace the crank seal. Used good name parts (fed modul, felpro, forget). But only after about 60kmi in that seal started leaking. So since getting in there is a chore anyways I did a whole new set of things again, used a different seal brand. Although 60k on a timing set is low I am glad the seal got me back in there. Had corrosion in several areas that would have likely started leaking soon. For this 2nd crank seal I used a smidge of Permatex gasket sealer (the recommended one) around the outer edge of the seal (metal super clean is key, with a little permatex pre-lube on the seal inner lip area). Leaky crank seal no more.
Some small pitting on the block side of the pump. So to help stop that I lightly coated the pump gasket, just a [ul]thin[/ul] bead (more like thin smear) to the outer and inner shoulder of the gasket rubber seal. I did this on both sides of that gasket. No leaks, but will not be able to see the results until next pump service, etc.
I also had some corrosion on the stat gooseneck. The 1st time there was enough aluminum corrosion the hose was distorted enough for a little fluid to start to leak out. Only brushed it off clean but the issue came back. So to fix this issue the gooseneck was brushed clean of corrosion, washed clean, dried in small oven, then was dipped in Alodine, rinsed, let dry, then hit with a light coat of marine zinc-chromate spray. So far so good w/ new hose, no leaks and no signs of corrosion there. Now heading north of 220kmi, hoping to see 300k.
post #1152 - you did just one CV axle? Did you replace the hub or diff seal?
Driver front CV was torn. Mechanic who did the work said if replacing CV boot its a good idea to replace the axel as well. I know squat when it comes to mechanics, I trust him, he's the professional.
02-29-20, 11:29 AM
