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I like HID the best at the moment, replacing individual parts vs the whole unit is a plus and they just outperform LED bulbs for distance so it's a no brainer. I've modified the stock Koito projectors with clear lenses and adjusted the lens focal for clarity but it could still use a bulb adjustment on the passenger side.
I like HID the best at the moment, replacing individual parts vs the whole unit is a plus and they just outperform LED bulbs for distance so it's a no brainer. I've modified the stock Koito projectors with clear lenses and adjusted the lens focal for clarity but it could still use a bulb adjustment on the passenger side.
It is hard to beat HID with a modified headlight. It's also hard to beat spending $20 on H9s to get almost double the light output over the stock H11s.
It is hard to beat HID with a modified headlight. It's also hard to beat spending $20 on H9s to get almost double the light output over the stock H11s.
I did that too for a while but the yellow of my DD fog lights made the headlights seem even more yellow. I've converted every car I've had in the past 15 years or so to HID so it's hard to stick with halogen and be content.
Driver cv-axle Cardone RMA. The 1st one went 60Kmi before the outer boot (small dia) ripped and let grease go flying.
The replacement work is just a pita.
I also did discover the inner hub seal needed replacing. National 710573 was the 1st one, installed another.
While not all today, with a new to us 08 it was time for a good baselining. Great service history but time for a number of preventative and due items.
thus far:
Front brakes: calipers, rotor, pads, full bleed - Napa total eclipse calipers, premium rotors, akebono pads
Fluid flush; front & rear diff, transfer case - Valvoline 75w90 synthetic, all 3
Spark plugs - Originals dry and clean
Power steering fluid - Fluid a bit dark, 5x flush with snythetic valvoline trans fluid
Replace door lock actuator - drivers rear: Symptom: remote not providing lock confirmation beep, door inconsistent response to lock/unlock
Oil filter change / chassis lube - Slides and spiders looked good, 8-10 pumps in slides, 1-1.5 spiders
New alternator, upgraded 150amp Sequoia unit from DB electrical
For the alternator it was giving the very intermittent battery charge light at idle. When tested often at or just above min voltage. I was not quite ready for the full off road high amp solution and decided the small upgrade to the sequoia unit that a few others have gone with was the right balance for our small fridge use and basically stock electronics at this point.
the unit looked good, bearing spun well etc, came with the rest results from the rebuild and once installed showed the expected results.
For the “wait what good is the post without a picture” thoughts, below shows the fusion obdii output at ~30 mph and a few minutes into a normal drive.
next up full timing belt service, new radiator, and trans flush to round out most of the baseline.
happy wrenching
Windy- that’s a very comprehensive base lining list of to-dos. It’s good for many many more miles. I’m curious about the alternator though. Can you provide more specific specs on the Sequoia unit? Direct fit? I have a replacement Denso unit and it’s only putting out 13.2-13.5 at idle.
That’s the hope once done, but there will always be something between the various rides. Plus’s this satisfies the mental need for wrench time. At idle in checking our 460 and the 470 they are lower than what I see in other cars. I have to dig to verify, and I think the spec for these was 12.8-13.8v and when my factory was going it would be right near the 12.8-13 range at idle, and where the intermittent light came from. My Miata (the antiGX) runs a pretty steady 14.7 to 14.8 all the time at idle or redline but with a tiny battery it’s a different spec.
Below is the DB test output for the sequoia alternator for the amps side. Some of the higher end aftermarket alternators I looked at had the majority available at or just off idle, but I was just not ready for that. These oem/denso appear to be a bit less at pure idle. Thats my limited experience here and defer to others if they see differently.
Either way direct fit, DB electrical was quick order and no issue. Let’s see how it looks with some mileage and time, but seems solid thus far and the usual bad reps seem to come from doa units.
Ok I think I’ve read somewhere several years ago that GX470 voltage range is something in the 13.3 +/- . You’re right seems a bit lower than some other vehicles. Thanks for the feedback.