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I need to do that next service interval.
When I started my truck when it was 10F wind chill the other week, I got some squealing out of the power steering pump when I turned the wheel backing out of the parking spot.
I caught an oozing leak from the rubber part of the return line coming out of the power steering rack. Ordered the replacement part online which included the two rubber parts and the metal line. It was a total B*TCH trying to get that metal line to shimmy out to the point I gave up and kept the OEM metal line and just replaced the two rubber end parts. Ran all the old fluid out and now have new ATF fluid and no more power steering leak. It is a relatively easy repair if you don't try to replace the metal line.
I also bled the brakes at each caliper and pushed through a couple tall bottles of DOT 3 synthetic brake fluid to flush out all the old stuff since the last time I did a flush. Is using Techstream the only way to flush out the ABS block or is there another way?
When I replaced the rear rotors I checked the eBrake shoes and they looked practically brand new but I would expect that since I never use the eBrake.
Next on the list is to replace the front and rear sway bar links.
I caught an oozing leak from the rubber part of the return line coming out of the power steering rack. Ordered the replacement part online which included the two rubber parts and the metal line. It was a total B*TCH trying to get that metal line to shimmy out to the point I gave up and kept the OEM metal line and just replaced the two rubber end parts. Ran all the old fluid out and now have new ATF fluid and no more power steering leak. It is a relatively easy repair if you don't try to replace the metal line.
I also bled the brakes at each caliper and pushed through a couple tall bottles of DOT 3 synthetic brake fluid to flush out all the old stuff since the last time I did a flush. Is using Techstream the only way to flush out the ABS block or is there another way?
When I replaced the rear rotors I checked the eBrake shoes and they looked practically brand new but I would expect that since I never use the eBrake.
Next on the list is to replace the front and rear sway bar links.
@Davenlei i noticed that i have a leak at this rubber line where it connects to the steering rack... i think it's coming from the top where it connects to that metal line... from reading it looks like it's an odd size (i.e. 10mm) so a universal 3/8" hose won't work... is this the same as your leak? where did you order the replacement from, i think lexus wants over $200 for it...
the hose in the middle is all wet, hence why i think it's leaking from that top clamp that connects to the hard line and then running down to where it connects to the rack...
@Davenlei i noticed that i have a leak at this rubber line where it connects to the steering rack... i think it's coming from the top where it connects to that metal line... from reading it looks like it's an odd size (i.e. 10mm) so a universal 3/8" hose won't work... is this the same as your leak? where did you order the replacement from, i think lexus wants over $200 for it...
the hose in the middle is all wet, hence why i think it's leaking from that top clamp that connects to the hard line and then running down to where it connects to the rack...
I recently did a steering refresh video that might help you out.
thanks i did watch that video, but i think you only changed the lines on the passenger side that connects directly to the reservoir correct? my picture is on the driver side where it goes from the rack to the hard line...
Replaced the timing belt today.
Also replaced the fan pulley bracket, water pump, crank seal, thermostat, tensioner, idler pulleys, and drive belt.
All of the above were OEM parts.
Thought about just ordering the Aisin kit, which I believe is the same, but stuck with OEM.
Plan on keeping the vehicle for a while, and with 184,000 miles on it, I figured its one less thing to go bad, if replaced.
To my knowledge the bearing can't be rebuilt, as it's pressed in the housing/bracket, and the whole assembly has to be replaced.
Probably not needed at his point, but I was taking it off to get to the timing belt, so I replaced it.
thanks i did watch that video, but i think you only changed the lines on the passenger side that connects directly to the reservoir correct? my picture is on the driver side where it goes from the rack to the hard line...
Kamlung,
Hi, I just saw this. Yes, if it is the return line to the rack (the metal line is screwed into the rack with the rubber line clamped onto it on the drivers side. I am not sure if it is an odd size line or not. Also since it is a return line I don't believe it is high pressure. I just bought the part online. I think it was Rock Auto or Autozone and I just took the clamps and rubber hoses off of the new part and replaced the rubber lines and clamps on the stock metal line and power steering nipple. It was an easy job once I decided not to replace the metal line and only do the rubber segments. If you also want to replace the metal line, you have to do way more work than it is worth...
I had noticed a while back that my fender liners were in rough shape, specifically the forward passenger side that protects my alternator, it was basically gone. Before spring melt starts, I figured I'd better get that addressed or I'll probably be alternator shopping before you know it.
I went with Rad Rubber's offering, nice kit, includes all new plastic retainers, even through in a beer coozie and some stickers! Install was super easy, please excuse the mess, I didn't make it to the carwash before taking this on, lol.
01-02-23, 06:19 PM
