Spoiler install, non factory
#1
Spoiler install, non factory
The following is the installation of the abs aftermarket spoiler, not the factory. I removed the two black plastic plugs at each end of the top of the door. There are (5) spring clips, holding the plastic trim at the top of the window. This is to get at the wiring that you will be splicing into for the brake light in the spoiler, see "W"
Last edited by Ancient; 02-02-12 at 01:50 PM.
#2
The next step is to line up the heavy paper locating strips for the screw holes. You will be drilling (3) holes on the passenger side and two on the drivers side of the door. The extra hole on the passenger side in the middle, is for the wiring. Line the hole in the locating strips up with the threaded holes on the back of the spoiler, and the hole for the wiring. My strips came with some sticky tape at the holes, but I used some small strips of masking tape, to make sure they were in place and didn't move, when I positioned the spoiler. You are looking at the passenger side.
#3
The next step is the tricky part and I don't recommend that you do this job yourself. I tied some soft rope on the cross bars of my roof rack and around the spoiler at each end. Since I was stubborn and decided to do this job myself, as you can see the spoiler is in position. As you will see in the next picture, I put a piece of masking tape on the top corner of each end of the back window, with some register marks. It allowed me to center the spoiler, side to side. The two feet or base of the spoiler will line up with the bottom part of the sheet metal, just above the glass. This will be on the flat part of the sheet metal, right above the radius that goes to the glass.
Once I was satisfied with the position. I took the green tape off the back window and taped my locating strips to the rear door and glass. Making sure I could open up the door next. I laid some towels on the roof and flipped the spoiler on top of the car.
Once I was satisfied with the position. I took the green tape off the back window and taped my locating strips to the rear door and glass. Making sure I could open up the door next. I laid some towels on the roof and flipped the spoiler on top of the car.
Last edited by Ancient; 02-02-12 at 02:40 PM.
#4
Once I taped the locating strips to the door, I removed the spoiler carefully. Better with two people. placed the foam pads that will go between the spoiler and the door, over my locating strips, to make sure everything lined up. You can see the register marks (red arrow) where I used this at both ends, to line up the spoiler side to side. The "W" is not a mounting hole, it is the hole for the wire.
#5
This shows the foam pad, that will be stuck to the spoiler at install. I used the foam pad, to make sure my mounting holes were in alignment. I also measured across the door and across the spoiler. Not very accurate, because you can measure flat across the spoiler, hole to hole. On the door, you are measuring the curve in the door.
Now the scary part, here goes the paint. I used a very sharp punch, to mark two mounting holes on the drivers side and three on the passenger side.
Now the scary part, here goes the paint. I used a very sharp punch, to mark two mounting holes on the drivers side and three on the passenger side.
Last edited by Ancient; 02-02-12 at 02:26 PM.
#6
The top hole on each side, will align with the large opening at the back of the door, were the big plastic caps were removed in the first picture. The bottom mounting holes will be lower. I used a unibit, not a twist drill to drill the holes.
Once the bottom hole was drilled through the outer skin of the door, I use a punch in that hole, to make a very slight mark on the inner part of the door. I wanted to see where that hole would be, to make sure it wasn't where the weather strip will seal against the door.
From the back side, I used a unibit, to drill the two bottom mounting holes, one on each side, see "red arrow" for passenger side. If you use too skinny/ long of a unibit, you will hit the outer skin of the door, drilling from the back. I kept enlarging the inner hole, to make sure my large headed screw, would go through that hole. I ended up with a half inch hole, which does show above the center plastic inner trim when in place, as seen in the picture "red arrow". Not to worry. I have two, 1/2 inch plastic rustproofing caps, to fill those holes. The black caps match the large black factory caps.
You get plastic loom for the wire, left side of picture. I put the wire in the plastic loom and fed it through to the center of the door, out that hole, to where I spliced the wires. Black wire on the spoiler, goes to the wire that has black on the truck. The remaining two wires were connected and I tested the brakes.
Once the bottom hole was drilled through the outer skin of the door, I use a punch in that hole, to make a very slight mark on the inner part of the door. I wanted to see where that hole would be, to make sure it wasn't where the weather strip will seal against the door.
From the back side, I used a unibit, to drill the two bottom mounting holes, one on each side, see "red arrow" for passenger side. If you use too skinny/ long of a unibit, you will hit the outer skin of the door, drilling from the back. I kept enlarging the inner hole, to make sure my large headed screw, would go through that hole. I ended up with a half inch hole, which does show above the center plastic inner trim when in place, as seen in the picture "red arrow". Not to worry. I have two, 1/2 inch plastic rustproofing caps, to fill those holes. The black caps match the large black factory caps.
You get plastic loom for the wire, left side of picture. I put the wire in the plastic loom and fed it through to the center of the door, out that hole, to where I spliced the wires. Black wire on the spoiler, goes to the wire that has black on the truck. The remaining two wires were connected and I tested the brakes.
Last edited by Ancient; 02-02-12 at 10:40 PM.
#7
Once the holes were drilled, I deburred the holes and used automotive primer, with cue tips, to paint the edges. I then used the tube of rust proofing to coat the drilled holes again.
I installed the plastic grommet supplied, in the outer, wiring hole in the door. This keeps the wires from being cut, going through the outer sheet metal. I fed the wires through the hole/ grommet in the back door. I left one side of my spoiler, tied to the roof rack, while I started the first screw. I got all four screws started, before I finished tightening all four screws. I tightened a half turn on each screw, until the contact was even. Do not overtighten these screws, they could strip. I don't think the screws would ever back out, but I used some rustproofing around the screws.
Being ****, I used body sealant, you could use clear silicone, in the gap between the spoiler and the rear door, at the top and down a little on each side. This will keep a lot of water from getting into the foam pad, that is used between the spoiler and the door. I did not caulk the bottom, to let any water out should it get between the two. Wallah! done. Paint was a dead on match. Not bad for $160.00 or so.
The factory installation, probably Sewells spoiler, in that the bottom two mounting holes, are not drilled through the inner door. They have pop rivet, snap lock connectors. You pop rivet in the bottom two holes, the spoiler snaps over the two rivets/ snap locks. The top two holes are used with the supplied screws/ bolts.
Once I put the plastic plugs in the two bottom holes, it will look factory. Sorry for the long post.
I installed the plastic grommet supplied, in the outer, wiring hole in the door. This keeps the wires from being cut, going through the outer sheet metal. I fed the wires through the hole/ grommet in the back door. I left one side of my spoiler, tied to the roof rack, while I started the first screw. I got all four screws started, before I finished tightening all four screws. I tightened a half turn on each screw, until the contact was even. Do not overtighten these screws, they could strip. I don't think the screws would ever back out, but I used some rustproofing around the screws.
Being ****, I used body sealant, you could use clear silicone, in the gap between the spoiler and the rear door, at the top and down a little on each side. This will keep a lot of water from getting into the foam pad, that is used between the spoiler and the door. I did not caulk the bottom, to let any water out should it get between the two. Wallah! done. Paint was a dead on match. Not bad for $160.00 or so.
The factory installation, probably Sewells spoiler, in that the bottom two mounting holes, are not drilled through the inner door. They have pop rivet, snap lock connectors. You pop rivet in the bottom two holes, the spoiler snaps over the two rivets/ snap locks. The top two holes are used with the supplied screws/ bolts.
Once I put the plastic plugs in the two bottom holes, it will look factory. Sorry for the long post.
Last edited by Ancient; 02-03-12 at 04:23 AM.
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#8
Beautiful job and you are so brave.
Is it 08 or 09? I spent 2+ months looking for either 08 or 09 (in either white or silver) with less than 50k miles for reasonable price (less than $37k) but could not find one to like. Finally, ended up with an RX450h.
Is it 08 or 09? I spent 2+ months looking for either 08 or 09 (in either white or silver) with less than 50k miles for reasonable price (less than $37k) but could not find one to like. Finally, ended up with an RX450h.
#11
Mine is an 08, got it over a year ago, for 37,000.00, with cpo. Had about 46,000 miles. In the Cleveland area, they get top dollar for a good one. Pretty pristine.
Thanks for the kind responses. I still can't believe I drilled holes in my car.
Redrocks, missed your "smiley" burnout during the holidays, no posting for two weeks.
Thanks for the kind responses. I still can't believe I drilled holes in my car.
Redrocks, missed your "smiley" burnout during the holidays, no posting for two weeks.
Last edited by Ancient; 02-02-12 at 10:42 PM.
#13
scorpio74 Thanks. I have to walk around the car and see how noticeable the old brake cover is. I get out my air brush now and then for any chips. I can sand, prime, and air brush the lense body paint, Titianium Silver. It took a while to install by myself and take pictures. Enough for today. Will paint that soon.
Last edited by Ancient; 02-02-12 at 10:43 PM.
#14