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Reset all the windows. Each door window switch works, yes?
After turning key on, hold driver door window switch down and hold it there for ~2-3sec after window bottoms out, then up the switch and hold it there ~2-3sec after window fully closes. Then onto rear-driver window, --> pass-front, then --> pass-rear. They should now all work from the drivers swicthes.
Reset all the windows. Each door window switch works, yes?
After turning key on, hold driver door window switch down and hold it there for ~2-3sec after window bottoms out, then up the switch and hold it there ~2-3sec after window fully closes. Then onto rear-driver window, --> pass-front, then --> pass-rear. They should now all work from the drivers swicthes.
Thanks! Yep that worked.
Only thing that's still off is the sun roof. It's not "auto" opening and closing. I have to hold the button down till the end and it feels like it actually lets me go past the stop point (If I just hold the button down it will open and then motor continues to run and cracking/bad sound happens as if its trying to open further than its meant to....
I had the same issue and my sunroof doesn’t close correctly.
it close then drops down about 1”
Let me know if you found a solution.
Maybe we have to reset the sunroof too?
Originally Posted by DMV703
Thanks! Yep that worked.
Only thing that's still off is the sun roof. It's not "auto" opening and closing. I have to hold the button down till the end and it feels like it actually lets me go past the stop point (If I just hold the button down it will open and then motor continues to run and cracking/bad sound happens as if its trying to open further than its meant to....
You have to reset the auto-open/close for the sunroof too. Same process - hold the switch a couple of additional seconds when it reaches it's travel limits.
You will also want to reprogram your radio presets and your memory seats.
Some additional info for the next time you do plugs.
no need to disco the batt, not sure why that DIY says to disco the batt.
do one plug at a time, swap out old for new from the box the new comes in, label the box w/ cyl # (front to rear, driver is 1-3-5-7, pass is 2-4-6-8), you can then inspect them later if need be and make notes per cyl, etc.
I had the same issue and my sunroof doesn’t close correctly.
it close then drops down about 1”
Let me know if you found a solution.
Maybe we have to reset the sunroof too?
I was able to re program the sun roof as instructed here and everything works fine now. Hope it works for you too!
Did you do your CV joints yet? I found a YouTube video for replacing them on my GX470. Went rather well. The hardest part was getting the CV axle to come out of the gearbox. I had to get a small tipped pry bar in there and tap repeatedly to finally get it to loosen up and come out.
I have a 2004 GX470 with 123,xxx miles (about 199,000 klms). I am not sure the plugs have ever been changed since I bought it from the original owner with 67,000 miles. I have all the paperwork from the previous owner who took it to the dealership for everything and was very good about getting things replaced on time. The plugs would not have been due at 67,000 miles but the previous owner seemed to have been taken advantage of with replacing things ahead of schedule. I have temporarily misplaced that maintenance folder but lets say I need to replace the plugs...
Found the paperwork, they had the plugs replaced at the stealership at 66,801 miles.....just before I bought it. So those plugs have about 56,xxx miles on them, I think too soon to replace them.
I called the local stealership and they said $14.95 per plug for iridium OEM plugs. Rockauto seems to have the same Denso Iridium plus for $7.17. (All Canadian prices since I live north of the border)
When I was on rockauto I see there is Ruthenium plugs !! I have never heard of Ruthenium plugs ?!?!?! They are $10.04 each and seem to be superior to Iridium.
Has anyone used and had experience with Ruthenium plugs?
How many miles were on the plugs you replaced? Where did you get the new plugs? Cost?
77,000, the truck is over 12 years old, just wanted to get the old ones out...besides....life is a little slow....not much to do these days, kept me busy for a couple of hours...bought them local Advanced Auto. $11 a plug and a $20 discount code...68 plus tax...
Hey guys and gals. Just like most of you got bitten by a bug and bought a GX470. It's a 2004 with 94K. I have been slowly working through some issues. Shocks etc. are pretty straight forward. Runs "all right" but I did hear it running a little rough / odd. No codes and I don't know the history of service so I bought a set of stock spark plugs and tackled the job. Guys I am 75 years old and feeling everyday of it. The first two plugs 1 & 3 were pretty rough to get out and I almost stopped right there but went on more out of curiosity than anything. I have seen plugs before and most looked like old used spark plugs. #'s 5 & 4 have some serious carbon on the thread but plug looks ok to me. Now #8 is a different story. OIL on the outside of the plug but not on the electrodes. This plug was not even in finger tight. At first I thought the threads were stripped but when I put the new one in it torqued up fine. Got all done and buttoned up and started it. Runs smooth and no warning lights so I am going to call it good. My guess is these were the original plugs and really needed replaced. Any information / insight would be much appreciated. oil on outside but not on electrode
Last edited by dunk50; 02-02-21 at 12:29 PM.
Reason: fixed photo
Looks possibly like you need to replace the spark plug tube seals. These are usually replaced along with the valve cover gaskets as they are in the valve cover. Also replace the valve cover bolt gaskets/seals (whatever you want to call them) while you're in there.
Another point to this, make sure you use OEM parts for this job. Some things you can use aftermarket all day long but in this case nothing works as well as OEM gaskets.
10-05-20, 11:32 AM
