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I actually bought these a while back and recently installed them. There were no mods done (unless you count soldering the connections on). I needed a connection pair and speaker mount adapter, both from amazon. Because the mount raises the height of the speaker, the last door clip doesn't connect and stay engaged, but its really difficult to notice.
It's bassy, but not crisp or clear. A good buy for 20 bucks and I'd buy again, but don't expect perfection.
On my rear 6" sub, I used the simplyspeakers repair kit, which was great but the coil was too damaged and rattled when it decided to want to work, so I pulled the entire unit and am currently subwoofer-less. I missed it a lot less than I thought I would. I tried to buy a generic 6" subwoofer to see if it'd fit but no dice. The ML driver has a very thin lip is not completely circular. Currently deciding whether or not I want to drop $100 on another sub when I just plunked $500 for odds and ends and will be ordering my lift kit this week. Leaning towards no.
The Lanza OPTI69HPRO8 is sold out everywhere. After seeing the replacement costs for subwoofers I decided to start with a 6” Foam Repair Kit from Simply Speakers - https://www.simplyspeakers.com/Toyot...fg_99-0-1.html - If that works I might try to do the same with they 6” x 9”..... And others if they are bad off.
I don't have the link handy, but if you search the GXOR Facebook page it'll probably come up.
One of my DS18's sounds like crap now - I'm really hoping it's just loose in the bracket and I need better screws. The ones I used were a little too small. I'll take it apart tomorrow and find out.
I don't have the link handy, but if you search the GXOR Facebook page it'll probably come up.
One of my DS18's sounds like crap now - I'm really hoping it's just loose in the bracket and I need better screws. The ones I used were a little too small. I'll take it apart tomorrow and find out.
Fingers crossed... I’m working on a solution now. I found 6” x 9” 4/8 Ohm speakers for $16.99 ea @ O’Reilly Auto Parts (AW-669SP). I was able to cut off two plastic pieces about 1/8” and sanded the inside of the OEM speaker bracket to make it fit. I reused the black rubber gasket. It actually is lower profile than OEM.
Fingers crossed... I’m working on a solution now. I found 6” x 9” 4/8 Ohm speakers for $16.99 ea @ O’Reilly Auto Parts (AW-669SP). I was able to cut off two plastic pieces about 1/8” and sanded the inside of the OEM speaker bracket to make it fit. I reused the black rubber gasket. It actually is lower profile than OEM.
How do they sound? I pulled my door panel and the speaker isn't loose - I think it might be dead.
How do they sound? I pulled my door panel and the speaker isn't loose - I think it might be dead.
I’m no audio expert but for $16.99 each I’m happy and would recommend to others for a cheap/easy solution. The only “mods” needed involved about 15-20 minutes of hand sanding the inner lip for the new speaker to fit in the old bracket. Rather than splice/solder/etc I chose to clip the existing wires off old speakers as close to connection as possible and ran the connector just outside the speaker. The white elbow / 90 degree female to female speaker wire connector is now outside the speaker but it’s hidden behind the door panel and doesn’t bother me. If you already know how to take off a door panel and how to cut/strip a wire I’d put the total time around 2-3 hours. I hope this helps people and feel free to hit me up with any questions.
I had an old piece of very fine sandpaper, it was smooth after sanding Saving this to reuse This was the least fun part, it may help to use a hairdryer to heat up the seal. After seperation be careful “stretching” too hard when pulling it off or it will be too stretched out to fit on properly. A very flat, flathead screwdriver may be better Hacking off two of these Removing screws to remove old speaker from bracket Finished Elbow bracket I choose to reuse
One thing I did notice after installing was that the front/dash speaker sounded like it was blown. Not looking forward to replacing that one b/c I think I saw in another post that I have to remove the Nav system to access it. I’m going to have to dig around the forum to look into that more. When I hear a blown speaker it’s like nails on a chalkboard.
Fingers crossed my SimplySpeakers.com ML 6” foam replacement kit comes today so I can repair the Sub and spend 2 hours trying to put the interior quarter panel back together.
So whats the big deal using 4 ohm vs 8 ohm. How many speakers are there in this system anyway? What sizes are they.
The reason impedance is important for speakers is because it is matched to the output of the amplifier so there is maximum power transfer (Ohm's Law). If the 8 Ohm is replaced with a 4 Ohm Impedance Speaker then the 4 Ohm Speaker will draw more current from the Amp than the 8 Ohm speakers. You will perceive this by noticing that at lower volume the 4 Ohm speaker will be "louder" than the 8 Ohm. At higher volume the 4 Ohm speaker will clip (distort) in comparison to the 8 Ohm. Always keep the speaker impedance matched with the output impedance of the stereo/amp for best performance.
One thing I did notice after installing was that the front/dash speaker sounded like it was blown. Not looking forward to replacing that one b/c I think I saw in another post that I have to remove the Nav system to access it. I’m going to have to dig around the forum to look into that more. When I hear a blown speaker it’s like nails on a chalkboard.
Fingers crossed my SimplySpeakers.com ML 6” foam replacement kit comes today so I can repair the Sub and spend 2 hours trying to put the interior quarter panel back together.
I wish I saw this 8 months ago when you posted, lol. The center speaker is accessible from the top of the dash - the speaker cover comes off and the speaker is right there, screwed in place.
Fingers crossed... I’m working on a solution now. I found 6” x 9” 4/8 Ohm speakers for $16.99 ea @ O’Reilly Auto Parts (AW-669SP). I was able to cut off two plastic pieces about 1/8” and sanded the inside of the OEM speaker bracket to make it fit. I reused the black rubber gasket. It actually is lower profile than OEM.
Bumping.
Was anyone able to confirm that these are 8ohm? This still available at O'Reilly's (I think... that model number looks like it may be a dual cone speaker not a component) and it turns out are Metra brand like all of the adapters, but product info doesn't show impedance...
12-12-17, 10:15 AM
