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Hi All,
I have a 2008 GX470 with 137k miles. Mostly used around town, camping trips and ski trips (often laden with a bike rack on the hitch or giant cargo box on the roof). Its a champ as you know.
I spent some time exactly on what the original poster was asking.
Each step below was instigated by a failing original shock.
First I swapped out all shocks for Bilstein 5100. Rode better with that. Dont miss dampening adjustability.
The last item was replacing the rear lower trailing arm and rear track bar with polyurethane bushings as well.
Each step was an improvement. So much my wife said: "Why didn't you do this earlier?!" (this comment was made on a fully loaded ski trip!) Thats a stamp of approval.
Overall rides smoother quieter and I don't hit bumps stops on speed bumps!
I plan to do the upper trailing arm bushings with poly or just an upgraded aftermarket part and rear springs at some point when the rear air bags fail. As it might get lifted a little when that happens, i got the adjustable rear swaybar link.
The black poly bushings are graphite impregnated and the ones you want. And they still come with grease to be used, for example, on the ID only of the D-shaped bushings.
Originally Posted by co4wheel
It's not ride comfort. It's that it counter what a Off Road SUV is about. I would consider the Red Poly Sway Bar Bushings. I think it's the red that are self lubing. Better Shocks and lastly springs. You may find that New shocks bushings are enough to make you happy. Taller Height is counter what you want in the end.
Yes and I saw a thread recently of another person too. I had to due to a pinhole leak. I had a shop do it, but supposedly it's not a bad DIY.
I will not be doing the bag delete - to spring conversion, even though it seems to be a popular mod and well liked.
And when you lower or raise it, you are only talking about during the default (slow, 10-15mph?) speeds, correct? Or have you found a workaround that allows it to remain so at higher speeds?
Originally Posted by coachstu
Does no one just replace the air bags on these things? I mean, keep it stock? I like the idea of being able to lower the vehicle.
I second above comment, bags are easily replaceable as far as I know. I have no issue with my bags at 138K miles.
The modifications I have done were to try to reduce body roll with the aftermarket thicker/adjustable sway bars.
After my stock shocks failed, i used aftermarket shocks that do not have adjustments for comfort or sport. Those factory replacements were pretty pricey.
So far so good.
Chris,
That's pretty crazy that your shocks expired first. I thought the normal failure was air bags leak causing the shocks to overwork and then fail.
Originally Posted by CAGX70
I second above comment, bags are easily replaceable as far as I know. I have no issue with my bags at 138K miles.
The modifications I have done were to try to reduce body roll with the aftermarket thicker/adjustable sway bars.
After my stock shocks failed, i used aftermarket shocks that do not have adjustments for comfort or sport. Those factory replacements were pretty pricey.
So far so good.
On the arm and bar did you just replace the bushings, or the whole part? I remember reading that at least 1 of those, or the upper trailing arm was a PITA, and that it's easier to replace in its entirety, but that could have also just been a sales pitch.
Originally Posted by CAGX70
The last item was replacing the rear lower trailing arm and rear track bar with polyurethane bushings as well.
I plan to do the upper trailing arm bushings with poly or just an upgraded aftermarket part.
For some of the bushing prices, I may look into upgrading the whole bar / arm for a little extra $. Here are the available bushings and prices from SuperPro and Nolathane, and the Nolathanes are currently sale prices, Also included is Nolathane's steering bushing, and I have done similar on the Gen1 Tundra and love the way it tightens up the steering wheel and response.
For some of the bushing prices, I may look into upgrading the whole bar / arm for a little extra $. Here are the available bushings and prices from SuperPro and Nolathane, and the Nolathanes are currently sale prices, Also included is Nolathane's steering bushing, and I have done similar on the Gen1 Tundra and love the way it tightens up the steering wheel and response.
HI, The bushings i got were first:
From Suspension.com 8.5135 Front Sway Bar Bushings - 29mm (1.14 inch) These were great and I was happy with these but eventually replaced with bushings that came with aftermarket front swaybar.. Try them out if you are putting off front aftermarket swaybar) Easy to put on yourself, no ramps or jackstands needed.
For there rear sway bar bushings, i think i used the ones that came with nolathane rear swaybar.
Now to your specific question:
Suspension.com
8.7105 Rear Track Rod Bushings $15.69
8.3129 Rear Control Arm Bushings $106.05
I had a shop do this and they said it was a pain in the neck for the first one, then got the hang of it. I dont have the tools needed to do it. There are some youtube vids out there. I only had them do the rear lower control arms and track rod bushing. The upper ones look so delicate i thought i will put it off until my air bags fail. I may just buy aftermarket replacement or stock upper control arm vs replacing bushing.
To a previous comment, one of my rear shocks was leaking fluid...that tripped off my whole quest.
2020 175k I rebuilt the suspension, shocks, bags, sensors, bushings and brakes with OEM Lexus then put on premium Toyo tires, anything beyond that is subjective...I'm confident going down the road at reasonable speeds, (I don't drive my GX +175mph)
2020 175k I rebuilt the suspension, shocks, bags, sensors, bushings and brakes with OEM Lexus then put on premium Toyo tires, anything beyond that is subjective...I'm confident going down the road at reasonable speeds, (I don't drive my GX +175mph)
That's awesome and I'm sure it will go another 175k+!
I had done all the OEM D sway bar bushings and rear end link bushings with black poly; I believe these were the very first mods, but followed shortly after by the amazing aFe intake.
I am putting the front sway bar on the backburner for at a much later date, and hopefully something comes out that is more affordable. I forgot to mention that I found out that I have the thicker of the 2 OEM sizes up front. I have no idea why. When I bought the typical poly bushings the D did not fit. I will have to check my records to find the measurement.
I may be mistaken, but just to replace the bushings would cost $166 and labor is intensive.
For all of the rear arms and bars, it is looking like the Freedom Off Road brand has them all and I will be ordering from Apache Off Road. All are adjustable and poly bushings, besides rubber on 1 end of track / pan hard bar. Total price for all 3 is $690. I would have loved to have gotten Icon's lighter aluminum control and trailing arms but they are over twice as much each. For example, the longer Lower Link arm is $750; see last link! And they do not make an aluminum track / pan hard bar.
HI, The bushings i got were first:
From Suspension.com 8.5135 Front Sway Bar Bushings - 29mm (1.14 inch) These were great and I was happy with these but eventually replaced with bushings that came with aftermarket front swaybar.. Try them out if you are putting off front aftermarket swaybar) Easy to put on yourself, no ramps or jackstands needed.
For there rear sway bar bushings, i think i used the ones that came with nolathane rear swaybar.
Now to your specific question:
Suspension.com
8.7105 Rear Track Rod Bushings $15.69
8.3129 Rear Control Arm Bushings $106.05
I had a shop do this and they said it was a pain in the neck for the first one, then got the hang of it. I dont have the tools needed to do it. There are some youtube vids out there. I only had them do the rear lower control arms and track rod bushing. The upper ones look so delicate i thought i will put it off until my air bags fail. I may just buy aftermarket replacement or stock upper control arm vs replacing bushing.
To a previous comment, one of my rear shocks was leaking fluid...that tripped off my whole quest.
I just looked up my records, and for some reason my stock front sway bar is 29mm, while some / most (?) are only 26mm.
The only thing I can think of is that it is a tow-package upgrade. Anyone else have any ideas?
Knowing that, I have set my budget for upgrading the stock bar from 29mm to 30mm to $5. LOL, but it is very low on the list.
Chris, I noticed you had 29mm OEM, so maybe more have it that than I originally thought, and maybe the 26mm was bad info.
Good luck with all the updates! Its nice there a few options our there tweak the ride yourself. I agree the aftermarket swaybar is a bit pricey for 1mm, but it kept me busy on a lovely afternoon, i like that if needed I can adjust it if desired, plus got those beefy links that have adjustability. I did notice a happy difference in the ride with the front swaybar, but maybe i just told myself that since i spent so much money on it and I better like it!
Yes, my front oem sway bar is 29mm and now sits in the garage.
Hope to hear back how it rides in a few weeks after everything comes in.
10-16-20, 01:11 PM
