Dilemma! What do I do?
#1
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
Dilemma! What do I do?
Need some advice on what to do:
- 06 GX 470, 183,000 mi., and in very good shape. Interior is in really great shape - almost looks brand new! Minor hail damage that can be fixed.
Took it for a routine service and dealer tells me that:
- rear shock/suspension air bags need to be replaced (ride has been very rough esp. over bumps): $1400
- Front CV boots are leaking and need to be replaced: $1000
- Timing belt/water pump, etc need to be replaced as part of 183k service: $1700
Total $4100 approx.
They're wiling to disc. to $3500.
Vehicle was appraised at $6800 last yr.
My 17 yr. old daughter started driving last yr and is using it as her car.
What should I do? Spend the $3500 and hope the car goes another 3-4 yrs without any major issues (> $500 in repairs)?........... Is there something else that I should be aware of that could cost me $$$$ in the next 3-4 yrs?
Or should I just ditch it now and buy a used RX/NX... Highlander?
- 06 GX 470, 183,000 mi., and in very good shape. Interior is in really great shape - almost looks brand new! Minor hail damage that can be fixed.
Took it for a routine service and dealer tells me that:
- rear shock/suspension air bags need to be replaced (ride has been very rough esp. over bumps): $1400
- Front CV boots are leaking and need to be replaced: $1000
- Timing belt/water pump, etc need to be replaced as part of 183k service: $1700
Total $4100 approx.
They're wiling to disc. to $3500.
Vehicle was appraised at $6800 last yr.
My 17 yr. old daughter started driving last yr and is using it as her car.
What should I do? Spend the $3500 and hope the car goes another 3-4 yrs without any major issues (> $500 in repairs)?........... Is there something else that I should be aware of that could cost me $$$$ in the next 3-4 yrs?
Or should I just ditch it now and buy a used RX/NX... Highlander?
Last edited by AustinHusk; 04-02-18 at 05:02 PM.
#2
Well, old cars will be old cars. If there's no more car notes, there's car repairs. It's just a matter of what would you rather go with at this point. From what I can tell, those parts the biggest maintenance issues with these trucks. And don't forget to do all fluids, ATF, gear oil, transfer case, engine oil, coolant, etc. If I were in your shoes, I'd spend the money on parts, do it yourself if you can, or chalk up the labor. Either way, these cars are seen to run way beyond 300k as long as you keep up with the basic maintenance.
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AustinHusk (04-02-18)
#3
Ask for a better price...timing belt alone can still be done by the dealer for 1200 so there’s 500 right there..a deeper discount on the other stuff..they should be able to do it all for 3000
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AustinHusk (04-02-18)
#4
Pole Position
There's nothing special about the CV boots. The dealers aren't willing to put a "fix-a-boot" on there. But then, those things may not make it 3 years, and depending on how much grease was lost or dirt got in, you may need to/want to replace the axle. You can replace both axles for about $1000 at a 3rd party shop and be good for another 150k
Chip H.
Chip H.
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AustinHusk (04-02-18)
#5
There's nothing special about the CV boots. The dealers aren't willing to put a "fix-a-boot" on there. But then, those things may not make it 3 years, and depending on how much grease was lost or dirt got in, you may need to/want to replace the axle. You can replace both axles for about $1000 at a 3rd party shop and be good for another 150k
Chip H.
Chip H.
1. Convert the air suspension to coil-over if you haven't already. It's a lot cheaper and easier to maintain. I think the conversion kit was about $400 plus the cost of new shocks and labor to do the swap.
2. Look at replacing the axles. I had them done not too long ago after the CV boots wore out.
3. The dreaded timing belt and water pump. No real way around this but you can get it done way cheaper than at the dealer. Most of the cost is in the labor in tearing down the engine. I paid my guy about $1000 if I remember correctly. But it's done and good to go for another 90K miles.
Shoot me a PM if you have any specific questions. It sounds like we are in a similar circumstance with the teenage driver. I feel your pain. haha.
Last edited by ebradford; 04-02-18 at 09:37 AM.
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AustinHusk (04-02-18)
#6
Pole Position
It's not that the dealer is hosing you, they just charge a higher labor rate and markup on parts than what you can get if you're willing to do some legwork yourself. It's the price you pay for their expertise and one stop shopping.
I agree you should convert to coils on the rear suspension, it's cheaper, and it put an end to the "what will break next" associated with the rear air suspension.
I'd replace both axles if it was me, keep the old ones around for spares if you want, they can be rebooted once off the truck if they haven't worn out due to low grease, but you don't know the condition till they are out, and that could lead to additional downtime.
The timing belt and waterpump should be done when they're due, check the radiator for signs of weeping/leaking as they do seem to be another failure point of the cooling system.
If well maintained, these are very reliable, very safe vehicles. If you can afford to keep gas in it, it's a great choice for a young driver, with you being in Texas though you really don't need something with full time AWD.
I agree you should convert to coils on the rear suspension, it's cheaper, and it put an end to the "what will break next" associated with the rear air suspension.
I'd replace both axles if it was me, keep the old ones around for spares if you want, they can be rebooted once off the truck if they haven't worn out due to low grease, but you don't know the condition till they are out, and that could lead to additional downtime.
The timing belt and waterpump should be done when they're due, check the radiator for signs of weeping/leaking as they do seem to be another failure point of the cooling system.
If well maintained, these are very reliable, very safe vehicles. If you can afford to keep gas in it, it's a great choice for a young driver, with you being in Texas though you really don't need something with full time AWD.
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AustinHusk (04-02-18)
#7
In hindsight, "hosing" was the wrong term. I apologize for the mis-characterization. What I meant was that you will pay a premium for the work to get done if you have it done at the dealer vs. at an indy shop (or a Toyota dealer for that matter).
A Lexus dealer, realistically, isn't working any magic under there. Any competent mechanic can do these repairs for less than the dealer will charge you.
Good luck and let us know how it shakes out.
A Lexus dealer, realistically, isn't working any magic under there. Any competent mechanic can do these repairs for less than the dealer will charge you.
Good luck and let us know how it shakes out.
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AustinHusk (04-02-18),
IanB2 (04-02-18)
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#8
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
Thanks all. Great info here.
So looks like it's an overwhelming keeper.
I was looking at L/Cert 2015-2017 RX 350's.... and the Toyota Highlander for my daughter (something beefy/safe/reliable)..... but all look like >$25,000 for something <20k miles.
SO at this point I'm favoring just going back to the dealer and asking for a better price on the repairs.
Also today when I went to pick it up from doing the basic 5k oil change I was told that the steering box is leaking fluid. Said it was very minor and could go another yr+..... $2500
So looks like it's an overwhelming keeper.
I was looking at L/Cert 2015-2017 RX 350's.... and the Toyota Highlander for my daughter (something beefy/safe/reliable)..... but all look like >$25,000 for something <20k miles.
SO at this point I'm favoring just going back to the dealer and asking for a better price on the repairs.
Also today when I went to pick it up from doing the basic 5k oil change I was told that the steering box is leaking fluid. Said it was very minor and could go another yr+..... $2500
#9
Pole Position
A replacement steering rack is $1200-1600, but again, this is something that any competent shop can change out so there's no real reason to pay dealer labor rates, unless the labor portion of the 12 month parts warranty is important to you (over the counter sales only get warranted for the part cost, not the labor)
https://www.lexussouthatlantaparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=798198&ukey_make=1082&ukey_model=15663&modelYear=2008&ukey_category=21754&ukey_driveLine=8091&ukey_trimLevel=19100
To get it out, I think a wheel hub has to be removed (don't quote me on this) so if you're going to do this, might as well get the CV axles done at the same time to save on the alignment cost afterward.
Edit:
What usually goes bad on a steering rack is the internal seal - get a flashlight and look at the boots on the end of the rack - if they're swollen because it's full of fluid, yeah it's time. Also check to see if the boots are torn (not sure how that could happen, but still...)
So far as fluid, I believe Lexus uses Dexron III transmission fluid in there. So nothing super special.
Chip H.
https://www.lexussouthatlantaparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=798198&ukey_make=1082&ukey_model=15663&modelYear=2008&ukey_category=21754&ukey_driveLine=8091&ukey_trimLevel=19100
To get it out, I think a wheel hub has to be removed (don't quote me on this) so if you're going to do this, might as well get the CV axles done at the same time to save on the alignment cost afterward.
Edit:
What usually goes bad on a steering rack is the internal seal - get a flashlight and look at the boots on the end of the rack - if they're swollen because it's full of fluid, yeah it's time. Also check to see if the boots are torn (not sure how that could happen, but still...)
So far as fluid, I believe Lexus uses Dexron III transmission fluid in there. So nothing super special.
Chip H.
Last edited by chiph9; 04-02-18 at 06:46 PM.
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AustinHusk (04-04-18)
#10
I couldn't imagine my parents giving me a 5,000 pound monster as a daily driver when I was 17, let alone my sister. I personally think this is way too much car for an inexperienced driver. But to each their own.
#11
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
Comprende?
#12
No where in my post did I mention it's monetary value. There is no price for a child's safety. It's just a big car with a lot of power. Both my wife, sister and my mother felt like it was too big and like a bus. That's all. Capeesh?
#13
Pole Position
It's also far safer than a $800 tin can beater, if the kid is responsible then I don't see the issue.
#14
Pole Position
The biggest problem OP will face is their child getting distracted by their cellphone.
Chip H.
#15
My high school car was a 1975 Chevy Impala. 2 tons with a 350 small block V8, rear wheel drive. No air bags, no ABS, crappy 70's tires. I don't think the shoulder belts even had inertia reels - you had to adjust the length manually for every driver.
The biggest problem OP will face is their child getting distracted by their cellphone.
Chip H.
The biggest problem OP will face is their child getting distracted by their cellphone.
Chip H.
I have zero problem putting my 16 year old into a 13 year old GX with 200k miles either. Big, safe, reliable, and paid for. Checks all the boxes for me.