MrJason

I ran the power, grounds, remote lead, RCAs, and speaker leads this evening. Everything is buttoned back up except for the rear right panel and rear flooring.

Everything is neatly run.... with the amp mounted on top of the box and the LC2i is mounted on the side of the box(opposite side of the connectors)... this way I can pull the fuse out of the main 4gauge power wire at the battery and remove the sub for when I need to haul stuff.. I’ve got a steel Bar protector plate that goes across the sub face to protect it... and the whole box assembly is stuck to the Lexus hard mat using 3M Velcro(didn’t want to bolt it down(after the rear panel and floor is back in).



but since I don’t use the 3rd row seats. I think I’m going to use the mounting brackets to install a shelf. .

Tomorrow will be the fun part of tuning the LC2i and amp so I can hear my accomplishment. I can’t wait!!

MrJason

Blue wires are the left channel and green wires are the right channel on the factory DVC subwoofer...the pic shows which wire colors are positive and ground.


when testing I get both left and right subwoofer output channel’s from the 2 blue wires and no output from the 2 green wires.

MrJason

So they doubled up on your outputs to one channel at the amps output... and then grounded the loc to the amps input.

Im going to see what the red and white speaker wires are going to. The amp out put should be blue/red(+) and blue/black(-) to the subwoofer.
There is also green and geeen/black wires too the factory sub that I can’t get any AC voltage from.

MrJason

Your stereo shop tapped into the RR door speaker with both channels. That may be why your sound is off. They should have tapped into the RR and RL outputs.

MrJason

Ok... all hooked up and tucked away... boy does it sound good!!!!
Although the RF amp was DOA... which really got to me. Luckily I had a BOSS R1100 MONO amp that pushes about 250-300watts rms @ 4 ohms. I’m using it until the replacement RF prime arrives. I had the BOSS from a previous vehicle(luckily).

My only disappointment was the GTO feature didn’t work as a trigger for the “amp turn on”... so I had to run a ignition sourced wire. But I played it with the high lvl inputs vs the LC2i and was amazed at how much the LC2i actually cleaned up the bass.

here is a pic...


The rca’s run to the LC2i mounted to the side of the box. The rubber mat has the course side of stick on Velcro that holds the box down. Worked very well, that thing is planted. It’s also easy to remove the added components of I need the room.

maxx430

good stuff!! what fuse are you running under the hood? I recently switched over to a breaker style fuse.

MrJason

I just tapped into the “acc” fuse on the panel under the steering wheel. I used an “add a circuit” and a 3 amp fuse.

maxx430

im not very inclined. Is that add a fuse used to power on the amp or the l2c. If you have time, any chance you can drag a picture diagram of how you mounted your setup? I would like to redo mine after learning about the lc2.

MrJason

I’ll draw a quick sketch and take a pic when I can.

But its it’s pretty simple.

Main power from battery to amp w/fuse 3 inches from battery.

Main ground from body bolt to amp(less than 18” long)

power and ground piggy piggy backed from amp to LC2i with a 2 amp fuse on power line.

remote wire run from acc fuse to LC2i “in”(using “add a circuit)

remote wire from LC2i out to amp.

Both speaker wire signals grabbed from 2 blue sub wires and run to LC2i


This way allows me too keep everything contained on the box for a quick removal if I need the cargo room.

maxx430

All sound so foreign, haha. What i do understand is the power from the main battery to the amp and a ground to the amp. I guess i am lost on the LC2i. I would like to replace my LOC but it looks like the LC2i is more intricate since i will be tapping into my amp and not the subwoofer wires. Anyways, thanks for you help!

MrJason

I guess where I lost you was the fact that the LCi is an active LOC and requires its own power source and the speaker wire inputs. Where as a passive LOC only requires the speaker inputs.


On your system... you’d just replace the LOC you have with the lci... then piggy back power from your amp and the turn on lead would go into the lci and out of the lci to the amp(instead of just to the amp).


I need to draw a pic.

chiph9

If you attempt this, pay attention to what he said about the fuse and the lengths of wire. The power wire fuse must be within a few inches of the battery terminal so that you get the most protection out of it (in case there's a short of the large power cable to the body/ground). You want the ground cable from the amp to be less than 18" to avoid audible hum/noise. Attach it to a large bolt, such as a seat bolt (don't forget to scrape the paint off for a good connection)

Chip H.

MrJason

Chip is right.... the fuses are the most important item of the system.
The big fuse by the battery protects the “wire” not the amp. It is what stops you from burning your car down.

And the shorter the ground.... the better. I never exceed 18” ground wires on amps. Although 3ft is considered acceptable.

chiph9

Yeah, that large power cable is potentially an arc welder, unless you size the fuse correctly.

I had a Honda Ridgeline before the GX and one of the things I did to protect that cable was to run it through rigid PVC plumbing pipe, so it wouldn't flex against a sharp edge and cut the insulation.

Chip H.

MrJason

Back in 2003 I had a buddy run his amp power wire around the door jam(big no no) on a Chevy Caviler... he then put his fuse by the amp in the trunk(even worse).
Within a week it had a short on the door jam and(lucky for him) made a black burn mark all the way to the battery... with melted insulation all over the burn trail.
We picked on him for years. But it could’ve been way worse!!