And another one gone, and another one gone, another sub bites the dust
#16
Judging from your picture, as I have yet to dismantle mine, I would think an 8" for sure, as a 10 would be pushing it.
From a good/legit company (Based on magnet size of course).
#17
Looking at this guy though https://www.crutchfield.com/S-xLRPGm...08LG-W3v3.html kinda scares me, as it says it's 4 "total" ohms impendence.
Using this guy for quick reference(No pun intended) https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rss315hfa-8-12-reference-hf-subwoofer-8-ohm--295-445
Although it's box less.
Using this guy for quick reference(No pun intended) https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rss315hfa-8-12-reference-hf-subwoofer-8-ohm--295-445
Although it's box less.
#18
Pole Position
Thread Starter
I heard back from JL Audio. You would connect the mono signals into both the left + right inputs. The inputs are high impedance so it doesn't draw much current and the 8 ohm ML amp output won't be a problem. However I would have to check that the ML doesn't output more than 5.4 volts. And if it does, I'd have to use a line-level converter to drop the voltage.
The crossover in the MicroSub+ is non-defeatable so you'd have to crank it all the way to 200 Hz, since the ML amp will have already done that job.
For mounting - it won't fit in the factory opening. So it would have to be strapped down in the cargo area.
But .. I went with the Simply Speakers repair kit. At $16 it just was too cheap not to try, and it sounds just like it used to.
Chip H.
The crossover in the MicroSub+ is non-defeatable so you'd have to crank it all the way to 200 Hz, since the ML amp will have already done that job.
For mounting - it won't fit in the factory opening. So it would have to be strapped down in the cargo area.
But .. I went with the Simply Speakers repair kit. At $16 it just was too cheap not to try, and it sounds just like it used to.
Chip H.
The following users liked this post:
IanB2 (09-24-19)
#19
Pole Position
Thread Starter
The key to a good repair is taking your time and having a sharp knife. It's like painting - the value is in the prep work.
For the ML sub, I took about 90 minutes to remove the old decayed surround and clean it up. Then several hours to glue the new one on. So glue the foam to the cone, wait 90 minutes for it to dry. Glue the foam to the frame, wait 90 minutes. Glue the trim ring back on, and wait 90 minutes.
Chip H.
For the ML sub, I took about 90 minutes to remove the old decayed surround and clean it up. Then several hours to glue the new one on. So glue the foam to the cone, wait 90 minutes for it to dry. Glue the foam to the frame, wait 90 minutes. Glue the trim ring back on, and wait 90 minutes.
Chip H.
The following 5 users liked this post by chiph9:
IanB2 (09-24-19),
Lextazy (09-30-19),
mail2anoopmv (12-10-23),
MidniteGX (09-24-19),
Rygar470 (09-24-19)
#20
Wow, that there is Patience my friend. Swell Job indeed.
#21
Lead Lap
The key to a good repair is taking your time and having a sharp knife. It's like painting - the value is in the prep work.
For the ML sub, I took about 90 minutes to remove the old decayed surround and clean it up. Then several hours to glue the new one on. So glue the foam to the cone, wait 90 minutes for it to dry. Glue the foam to the frame, wait 90 minutes. Glue the trim ring back on, and wait 90 minutes.
Chip H.
For the ML sub, I took about 90 minutes to remove the old decayed surround and clean it up. Then several hours to glue the new one on. So glue the foam to the cone, wait 90 minutes for it to dry. Glue the foam to the frame, wait 90 minutes. Glue the trim ring back on, and wait 90 minutes.
Chip H.
Good good job man... looks great!👍🏻👍🏻
#22
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Sounds great too!
That old foam just crumbled to pieces as I removed it.
Something I didn't mention - be very very careful with your knife around the wires. You don't want to cut one, as then you are what is known as "screwed"
Chip H.
That old foam just crumbled to pieces as I removed it.
Something I didn't mention - be very very careful with your knife around the wires. You don't want to cut one, as then you are what is known as "screwed"
Chip H.
The following 2 users liked this post by chiph9:
Lextazy (10-02-19),
mail2anoopmv (12-10-23)
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