Rust Belt GX - ok or avoid?
12-09-19, 08:27 AM
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Rust Belt GX - ok or avoid?
Hello All,
I'm shopping for my first GX with a nationwide search, would like your experienced opinions on the rust impact to vehicles owned/operated in the Midwest (MN/IA/WI/IL) states that seem to rely on salted roads through the winters. If you own a GX from one of these states, what has your experience been with body or frame corrosion? I would avoid any vehicle with visible body rust, but it's the undercarriage and components that have me cautious in considering a vehicle from these states.
Your input is much appreciated! I look forward to more GX conversations after buying in!
I'm shopping for my first GX with a nationwide search, would like your experienced opinions on the rust impact to vehicles owned/operated in the Midwest (MN/IA/WI/IL) states that seem to rely on salted roads through the winters. If you own a GX from one of these states, what has your experience been with body or frame corrosion? I would avoid any vehicle with visible body rust, but it's the undercarriage and components that have me cautious in considering a vehicle from these states.
Your input is much appreciated! I look forward to more GX conversations after buying in!
12-09-19, 11:34 AM
#2
Pole Position
I live where they use a lot of salt on the roads, undercarriage corrosion is inevitable. The biggest thing is working on stuff under the truck, there's an equal likelihood of a socket taking something off, or a grinder needing to be used as the nut rounded off sometimes. Every job is harder when rust is involved.
If you're searching nationwide, then stick to the non-salt belt states would be my advise. Texas, Arizona, California, etc.
If you're searching nationwide, then stick to the non-salt belt states would be my advise. Texas, Arizona, California, etc.
12-09-19, 01:56 PM
#3
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
I live where they use a lot of salt on the roads, undercarriage corrosion is inevitable. The biggest thing is working on stuff under the truck, there's an equal likelihood of a socket taking something off, or a grinder needing to be used as the nut rounded off sometimes. Every job is harder when rust is involved.
If you're searching nationwide, then stick to the non-salt belt states would be my advise. Texas, Arizona, California, etc.
If you're searching nationwide, then stick to the non-salt belt states would be my advise. Texas, Arizona, California, etc.
12-09-19, 03:41 PM
#4
Pole Position
This spring I installed a lift (shocks and springs), including new LCA's and UCA's, and the alignment cam bolts in the LCA's were all seized up requiring a combination of an air hammer and sawzall to remove, added hours to the job. The top hats in the front spring/strut assemblies were also seized to the spring perch, again requiring the air hammer to get them apart after a couple hours of struggling with them. I've had a gas tank strap rust and break, and all my front skidplate bolts have been drilled bigger and tapped. My front skidplate is garbage as it's rusting away and looks like crap. Just some fun examples that come to mind, lol.
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JBinden (12-09-19)
12-09-19, 06:21 PM
#5
Rust Belt VS rust-free GX
JBinden,
Greetings from the Rust Belt!
As Ian has mentioned, if you're going to work on the truck yourself, save yourself some trouble and hours of frustration and buy a truck with minimum to no rust. I have a 2006 CR-V that I bought new, which is my winter driver, and I have spent countless hours of using a torch and sawsall cutting off stabilizer link bar nuts/bolts, annual brake caliper rebuilds as they're prone to seize (especially the rear ones). I have refinished and powder coated the stock steel rims and, three years later they started to rust again, despite frequent cleaning and waxing the wheels.
When I was searching for my GX, I spent over 6 months and came to a conclusion that it has to be a truck from South or West coast. Finally I got lucky and found one locally that was brought from Alabama. Bingo! I paid $18k for a 2009 with 112k miles, but it was spotless and had zero rust on undercarriage. I know I overpaid, but it was well worth it! It is a pleasure to work on the truck, including routine maintenance (fluids, driveline lube, inspection).
I highly recommend to buy a truck with no rust, even if it has higher mileage. These trucks are built to last. All of the components are twice, if not three times as tough as compared to small-to-mid-size cars, therefore should last twice or three times as long!
Goos luck on your search!
Max
Greetings from the Rust Belt!
As Ian has mentioned, if you're going to work on the truck yourself, save yourself some trouble and hours of frustration and buy a truck with minimum to no rust. I have a 2006 CR-V that I bought new, which is my winter driver, and I have spent countless hours of using a torch and sawsall cutting off stabilizer link bar nuts/bolts, annual brake caliper rebuilds as they're prone to seize (especially the rear ones). I have refinished and powder coated the stock steel rims and, three years later they started to rust again, despite frequent cleaning and waxing the wheels.
When I was searching for my GX, I spent over 6 months and came to a conclusion that it has to be a truck from South or West coast. Finally I got lucky and found one locally that was brought from Alabama. Bingo! I paid $18k for a 2009 with 112k miles, but it was spotless and had zero rust on undercarriage. I know I overpaid, but it was well worth it! It is a pleasure to work on the truck, including routine maintenance (fluids, driveline lube, inspection).
I highly recommend to buy a truck with no rust, even if it has higher mileage. These trucks are built to last. All of the components are twice, if not three times as tough as compared to small-to-mid-size cars, therefore should last twice or three times as long!
Goos luck on your search!
Max
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IanB2 (12-09-19)
12-09-19, 08:57 PM
#6
We looked at 6 different ones last month, throughout PA and NJ. Plenty of salt and snow. I was thinking about traveling to FL as there were a few nice looking ones down there. But eventually we found a garage kept one locally, least amount of rust. Low mileage at 93k. 
All of them had rust, some major, especially the radiator support. Be patient and good luck.
All of them had rust, some major, especially the radiator support. Be patient and good luck.
12-09-19, 09:02 PM
#7
Pole Position
Living in Colorado you live in perpetual 20-25 % humidity ... and where salt (for the most part) is not used in the winter ... so why adopt anything out of state that has been chemically bathed in sodium chloride for 4-5 months each and every year ? Colorado should have enough used examples available ... or search West versus going East. Not only do mid-West vehicles get the salt treatment ... they are also subjected to cold(er) starts where most engine wear occurs.
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12-10-19, 10:57 AM
#8
Driver School Candidate
Hey man, just make sure you get underneath and look at everything, or get pics if it's far away. I live in PA and I literally looked at 10-12 GX's before I purchased the one I got. Almost all of them had some sort of rust, surface or worse. Only 3 were rust free! The one I went with was originally a Florida car and was only in PA for 2 years before I purchased it, but the downside to getting a car from a hot area is the cracks in the dash, which I can live with over rust. And you can go on Lexus's website and enter the VIN and see where the car has been and where it has been serviced. That's also a great tool for looking into these things, but overall GX is the bomb! just do your research and find a good one. Hope this helps
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