Just purchased GX470 - Needed suspension recommendation
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Just purchased GX470 - Needed suspension recommendation
It has been a while since we sold our RX years ago and finally purchased a 2008 GX470 w/ 140K for $14K.
Really wanted to stay below $10K but the truck was so clean inside and out w/ zero rust (Georgia car).
No crack or visible wear on the front or rear leather seats either and drives like dream.
Everything was fine except the factory radiator that has a tiny crack and leaks a very small amount of coolant.
Unfortunately, I pulled out the record from the Lexus website & carfax but didn't see the timing belt change record either.
It's already in the shop and looks like I have to spend another $1,150 or so to change the above items along with a water pump.
Another odd thing is the rear air suspension... it raises and drops ok but when the truck starts to move, it returns back to a natural position by itself.
Sometimes, the rear suspension bounces like crazy... might be a sensor or airbag failure or who knows.
Not sure I should attempt to repair the rear air suspension (shop quoted $1,100) or invest another $2,000 to change the front + back springs, shocks, and UCA.
The front suspension seems fine.
I've researched here for a few weeks and the choices are nearly endless.
Any suggestion?
What seems the issue w/ bouncy ride or air suspension returns back to the natural position on its own?
Should I spend another big chunk of money and change out the whole F&R suspension?
What's the most affordable way to replace F&R and also achieve 2" lift? (OME lift kit?)
This truck will be our family spare car that we will use for long-range travel and occasional light off-road for camping, etc.
I'm leaning towards the OME 2" lift kit but since I've zero experience w/ GX, I thought I should ask the board first.
I also liked the ICON but damn they're pricy...
Hate to spend more money on an already expensive used car but looks like I have no choice at this point *SNIFFS*
Any help would be gladly appreciated.
Really wanted to stay below $10K but the truck was so clean inside and out w/ zero rust (Georgia car).
No crack or visible wear on the front or rear leather seats either and drives like dream.
Everything was fine except the factory radiator that has a tiny crack and leaks a very small amount of coolant.
Unfortunately, I pulled out the record from the Lexus website & carfax but didn't see the timing belt change record either.
It's already in the shop and looks like I have to spend another $1,150 or so to change the above items along with a water pump.
Another odd thing is the rear air suspension... it raises and drops ok but when the truck starts to move, it returns back to a natural position by itself.
Sometimes, the rear suspension bounces like crazy... might be a sensor or airbag failure or who knows.
Not sure I should attempt to repair the rear air suspension (shop quoted $1,100) or invest another $2,000 to change the front + back springs, shocks, and UCA.
The front suspension seems fine.
I've researched here for a few weeks and the choices are nearly endless.
Any suggestion?
What seems the issue w/ bouncy ride or air suspension returns back to the natural position on its own?
Should I spend another big chunk of money and change out the whole F&R suspension?
What's the most affordable way to replace F&R and also achieve 2" lift? (OME lift kit?)
This truck will be our family spare car that we will use for long-range travel and occasional light off-road for camping, etc.
I'm leaning towards the OME 2" lift kit but since I've zero experience w/ GX, I thought I should ask the board first.
I also liked the ICON but damn they're pricy...
Hate to spend more money on an already expensive used car but looks like I have no choice at this point *SNIFFS*
Any help would be gladly appreciated.
Last edited by coolhand; 09-28-20 at 03:07 AM.
#2
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Looks nice - if it doesn't work out - you can always sell it to me
On the repairs, start small and cheap on the fixes. Have a google on the air suspension here and chances are you'll figure out what wrong w it pretty quick - guessing ride height sensor issue, fuse?
If you want to swap the air suspension out, there are coil kits which are cheap and easy (compared to lift install)
OME stuff is nice but for your use case, its overkill
Remember the car is a Toyota Prado (choice of warlords and 3rd world offroad everywhere) and is offroad capable out of the box
On the repairs, start small and cheap on the fixes. Have a google on the air suspension here and chances are you'll figure out what wrong w it pretty quick - guessing ride height sensor issue, fuse?
If you want to swap the air suspension out, there are coil kits which are cheap and easy (compared to lift install)
OME stuff is nice but for your use case, its overkill
Remember the car is a Toyota Prado (choice of warlords and 3rd world offroad everywhere) and is offroad capable out of the box
#3
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Thanks for the reply!
I will look into the ride height sensor and perhaps fuse.
Yeah, I thought about Jeep for light off-road w/ family, but I wasn't impressed with reliability to compare to the GX.
Like you suggested, I will try to repair the air suspension if the cost is manageable...
I will look into the ride height sensor and perhaps fuse.
Yeah, I thought about Jeep for light off-road w/ family, but I wasn't impressed with reliability to compare to the GX.
Like you suggested, I will try to repair the air suspension if the cost is manageable...
Looks nice - if it doesn't work out - you can always sell it to me
On the repairs, start small and cheap on the fixes. Have a google on the air suspension here and chances are you'll figure out what wrong w it pretty quick - guessing ride height sensor issue, fuse?
If you want to swap the air suspension out, there are coil kits which are cheap and easy (compared to lift install)
OME stuff is nice but for your use case, its overkill
Remember the car is a Toyota Prado (choice of warlords and 3rd world offroad everywhere) and is offroad capable out of the box
On the repairs, start small and cheap on the fixes. Have a google on the air suspension here and chances are you'll figure out what wrong w it pretty quick - guessing ride height sensor issue, fuse?
If you want to swap the air suspension out, there are coil kits which are cheap and easy (compared to lift install)
OME stuff is nice but for your use case, its overkill
Remember the car is a Toyota Prado (choice of warlords and 3rd world offroad everywhere) and is offroad capable out of the box
#4
The airbag height control always returns back to "N" height when you drive. If the N height are off then adjust the height sensor. If it's bouncy then you have a shock issue, not a airbag issue. I like the OEM airbags. I replaced my OEM with Arnott bags. Super ez to do and not arm/leg. Option B is some sort of spring/shock kit.
From what I am seeing, it seems around ~110-150kmi these 4.7 v8's need fuel injectors. The OEM set I got off a Tundra with only 107kmi were really bad spray patterns. This might explain why my intake ports have sludge in than at 225kmi.
OEM radiators have a defect in them, crack, and leak. Denso 1st fit from any parts place. If they are in doing a water pump, best to replace all the rollers, belt, tensioner. I also highly recommend replacing the crank seal, but make darn sure the the surfaces are super clean going back in, and I highly recommend a light smear of Permatex gasket maker on the outer edge of seal only, this stops it from rotating and leaking later.
Go take a look at the last few posts of the THIS THREAD. This other stuff under the intake is what's gonna cost you later if you cannot DIY it.
From what I am seeing, it seems around ~110-150kmi these 4.7 v8's need fuel injectors. The OEM set I got off a Tundra with only 107kmi were really bad spray patterns. This might explain why my intake ports have sludge in than at 225kmi.
OEM radiators have a defect in them, crack, and leak. Denso 1st fit from any parts place. If they are in doing a water pump, best to replace all the rollers, belt, tensioner. I also highly recommend replacing the crank seal, but make darn sure the the surfaces are super clean going back in, and I highly recommend a light smear of Permatex gasket maker on the outer edge of seal only, this stops it from rotating and leaking later.
Go take a look at the last few posts of the THIS THREAD. This other stuff under the intake is what's gonna cost you later if you cannot DIY it.
Last edited by Lexus4321; 09-28-20 at 12:01 PM.
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Thanks for your excellent advice.
I'm having a bouncy ride from time to time.
When I'm having that bouncy ride issue, I turn off the car then restart follow by adjusting height, the rear suspension ride returns to normal.
Pretty weird and definitely some issue... I would like to at least try to repair it.
I'm having a bouncy ride from time to time.
When I'm having that bouncy ride issue, I turn off the car then restart follow by adjusting height, the rear suspension ride returns to normal.
Pretty weird and definitely some issue... I would like to at least try to repair it.
The airbag height control always returns back to "N" height when you drive. If the N height are off then adjust the height sensor. If it's bouncy then you have a shock issue, not a airbag issue. I like the OEM airbags. I replaced my OEM with Arnott bags. Super ez to do and not arm/leg. Option B is some sort of spring/shock kit.
From what I am seeing, it seems around ~110-150kmi these 4.7 v8's need fuel injectors. The OEM set I got off a Tundra with only 107kmi were really bad spray patterns. This might explain why my intake ports have sludge in than at 225kmi.
OEM radiators have a defect in them, crack, and leak. Denso 1st fit from any parts place. If they are in doing a water pump, best to replace all the rollers, belt, tensioner. I also highly recommend replacing the crank seal, but make darn sure the the surfaces are super clean going back in, and I highly recommend a light smear of Permatex gasket maker on the outer edge of seal only, this stops it from rotating and leaking later.
Go take a look at the last few posts of the THIS THREAD. This other stuff under the intake is what's gonna cost you later if you cannot DIY it.
From what I am seeing, it seems around ~110-150kmi these 4.7 v8's need fuel injectors. The OEM set I got off a Tundra with only 107kmi were really bad spray patterns. This might explain why my intake ports have sludge in than at 225kmi.
OEM radiators have a defect in them, crack, and leak. Denso 1st fit from any parts place. If they are in doing a water pump, best to replace all the rollers, belt, tensioner. I also highly recommend replacing the crank seal, but make darn sure the the surfaces are super clean going back in, and I highly recommend a light smear of Permatex gasket maker on the outer edge of seal only, this stops it from rotating and leaking later.
Go take a look at the last few posts of the THIS THREAD. This other stuff under the intake is what's gonna cost you later if you cannot DIY it.
#6
Thanks for your excellent advice.
I'm having a bouncy ride from time to time.
When I'm having that bouncy ride issue, I turn off the car then restart follow by adjusting height, the rear suspension ride returns to normal.
Pretty weird and definitely some issue... I would like to at least try to repair it.
I'm having a bouncy ride from time to time.
When I'm having that bouncy ride issue, I turn off the car then restart follow by adjusting height, the rear suspension ride returns to normal.
Pretty weird and definitely some issue... I would like to at least try to repair it.
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#8
Pole Position
First of all, nice buy, looks like a super clean truck!
2ndly, the rear air suspension reverts to N position when you exceed a certain speed (it's different depending on if you're in L or H, the owner's manual describes this), so that's normal operation.
The bouncy suspension could be the airbags getting low and you're bouncing off the bump stops, next time it happens jump out and measure the ground to bottom edge of the wheel well, and compare to normal measurement to confirm if the suspension is riding low when this happens. Normally a bouncy ride would be attributed to the shocks, but that would be all the time, not just sometimes.
Lastly, I went with a Dobinsons setup when I got rid of my air suspension, 2" lift up front, 1" in the rear, Metaltech rear coil conversion kit, comfort valved shocks in the back. The ride is much nicer than stock IMO, firmer for sure but never harsh, it rides very smooth with less bodyroll/dive/squat than stock. The problem you're going to run into is that everyone is out of stock on stuff like this, lots of pandemic lifts have taken place over the past half a year or so, demand has spiked and supply chains broke down.
2ndly, the rear air suspension reverts to N position when you exceed a certain speed (it's different depending on if you're in L or H, the owner's manual describes this), so that's normal operation.
The bouncy suspension could be the airbags getting low and you're bouncing off the bump stops, next time it happens jump out and measure the ground to bottom edge of the wheel well, and compare to normal measurement to confirm if the suspension is riding low when this happens. Normally a bouncy ride would be attributed to the shocks, but that would be all the time, not just sometimes.
Lastly, I went with a Dobinsons setup when I got rid of my air suspension, 2" lift up front, 1" in the rear, Metaltech rear coil conversion kit, comfort valved shocks in the back. The ride is much nicer than stock IMO, firmer for sure but never harsh, it rides very smooth with less bodyroll/dive/squat than stock. The problem you're going to run into is that everyone is out of stock on stuff like this, lots of pandemic lifts have taken place over the past half a year or so, demand has spiked and supply chains broke down.
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#9
Air bags are normally "soft". Try setting the dynamic shocks to the SPORT mode to stiffen it up. Mine on far left (most comfort) setting is a soft mushy ride and I will hit rear bump stops going snail pace over a speed bump in parking lot. GX's are not exactly light vehicles.
If the air bags are leaking you'll hear the air pump running quite a bit refilling.
If the air bags are leaking you'll hear the air pump running quite a bit refilling.
#10
Driver School Candidate
When I bought my 2007 470, I deleted the air suspension (shocks were rusted out and the air bags worked but were dry rotting) and installed the Metaltech spring conversion kit and Bilstein 4600s to maintain the factory height. So far, so good. Also wound up replacing most of the front suspension, hub bearing assemblies and CV axles while I had it apart, but that's another story.
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Excellent advice!
Yeah, it seems like my airbag has low air... the compressor runs quite long.
So at what speed the air suspension returns to N position?
Yeah, it seems like my airbag has low air... the compressor runs quite long.
So at what speed the air suspension returns to N position?
First of all, nice buy, looks like a super clean truck!
2ndly, the rear air suspension reverts to N position when you exceed a certain speed (it's different depending on if you're in L or H, the owner's manual describes this), so that's normal operation.
The bouncy suspension could be the airbags getting low and you're bouncing off the bump stops, next time it happens jump out and measure the ground to bottom edge of the wheel well, and compare to normal measurement to confirm if the suspension is riding low when this happens. Normally a bouncy ride would be attributed to the shocks, but that would be all the time, not just sometimes.
Lastly, I went with a Dobinsons setup when I got rid of my air suspension, 2" lift up front, 1" in the rear, Metaltech rear coil conversion kit, comfort valved shocks in the back. The ride is much nicer than stock IMO, firmer for sure but never harsh, it rides very smooth with less bodyroll/dive/squat than stock. The problem you're going to run into is that everyone is out of stock on stuff like this, lots of pandemic lifts have taken place over the past half a year or so, demand has spiked and supply chains broke down.
2ndly, the rear air suspension reverts to N position when you exceed a certain speed (it's different depending on if you're in L or H, the owner's manual describes this), so that's normal operation.
The bouncy suspension could be the airbags getting low and you're bouncing off the bump stops, next time it happens jump out and measure the ground to bottom edge of the wheel well, and compare to normal measurement to confirm if the suspension is riding low when this happens. Normally a bouncy ride would be attributed to the shocks, but that would be all the time, not just sometimes.
Lastly, I went with a Dobinsons setup when I got rid of my air suspension, 2" lift up front, 1" in the rear, Metaltech rear coil conversion kit, comfort valved shocks in the back. The ride is much nicer than stock IMO, firmer for sure but never harsh, it rides very smooth with less bodyroll/dive/squat than stock. The problem you're going to run into is that everyone is out of stock on stuff like this, lots of pandemic lifts have taken place over the past half a year or so, demand has spiked and supply chains broke down.
#13
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I tried to adjust in various settings and honestly, couldn't tell any difference in ride quality.
Yes, it takes quite a long time to fill the airbags.
Yes, it takes quite a long time to fill the airbags.
Air bags are normally "soft". Try setting the dynamic shocks to the SPORT mode to stiffen it up. Mine on far left (most comfort) setting is a soft mushy ride and I will hit rear bump stops going snail pace over a speed bump in parking lot. GX's are not exactly light vehicles.
If the air bags are leaking you'll hear the air pump running quite a bit refilling.
If the air bags are leaking you'll hear the air pump running quite a bit refilling.
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Eventually, I need to swap out and lift 2" all around.
What factory parts should I replace while doing swap besides the parts listed on your reply?
What factory parts should I replace while doing swap besides the parts listed on your reply?
When I bought my 2007 470, I deleted the air suspension (shocks were rusted out and the air bags worked but were dry rotting) and installed the Metaltech spring conversion kit and Bilstein 4600s to maintain the factory height. So far, so good. Also wound up replacing most of the front suspension, hub bearing assemblies and CV axles while I had it apart, but that's another story.