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So I have a very nice 996 TT that I was daily driving. A VERY fun car but I really wanted something I could use as a DD that I didn't have to be a contortionist to get in and out of.
I based my GX purchase (of all things) on multiple YouTube videos. A reliable, comfortable and rugged luxury SUV sounded perfect (funny, during my search, a fellow 996 TT owner told me that he also had a GX).
So the decision was made. I wanted a 08 or 09 just because I wanted the BlueTooth for my phone. I have no interest in upgrading to the Tesla style center console.
After a few visits to some pretty crappy cars, I came across this almost pristine 2008 with near perfect paint. It isn't Grey, Silver or Black, which was my main no-no. 166K miles, 1 owner, lots of oil changes every 5-6,000 miles, but no records of the timing belt:
A pretty good deal at $12,000 from a Lexus dealer in NY.
Already got the TKT-021 belt / water pump kit and it will be going in soon along with a new thermostat, plugs and serpentine belt. Wheels will be soon after that.
Nice.
Hint: do the crank seal and crank sensor when you open it up.
I am very interested in seeing the belt when it comes out, are any teeth missing, or has it begun to "un-thread"?
The recommended T-stat sealant is that Permatex gray stuff (needed for T stat neck), have that handy when you do the crank seal, just a smidge around the outer edge of the seal when it goes back. Just make sure the block is clean & dry, lube the inside of the seal with some oil, etc.
If you find pitting where the water pump gasket goes, clean the area really good, then use the Permatex just on the outre edge of the rubber part of the gasket side facing the block, etc.
If you can, look inside the intake behind throttle body, is there oil laying in bottom of the intake? If so the replace the PCV and install a catch can (look for my post on that)
And last note, be ready to start doing more work to it as things begin to fail.
Nice.
Hint: do the crank seal and crank sensor when you open it up.
I am very interested in seeing the belt when it comes out, are any teeth missing, or has it begun to "un-thread"?
The recommended T-stat sealant is that Permatex gray stuff (needed for T stat neck), have that handy when you do the crank seal, just a smidge around the outer edge of the seal when it goes back. Just make sure the block is clean & dry, lube the inside of the seal with some oil, etc.
If you find pitting where the water pump gasket goes, clean the area really good, then use the Permatex just on the outre edge of the rubber part of the gasket side facing the block, etc.
If you can, look inside the intake behind throttle body, is there oil laying in bottom of the intake? If so the replace the PCV and install a catch can (look for my post on that)
And last note, be ready to start doing more work to it as things begin to fail.
I am having a local indy do the work so I won't be looking at it directly, though I will ask him to save the parts.
My guess is that the belt was already done at the scheduled interval, based on other service that has been done. Eventhough it wasn't documented.
How accessible is the crank seal and sensor while doing the timing belt? If very accessible, I may just have them do it.
I like to supply my own parts ... do you have part numbers handy?
I am having a local indy do the work so I won't be looking at it directly, though I will ask him to save the parts.
My guess is that the belt was already done at the scheduled interval, based on other service that has been done. Eventhough it wasn't documented.
How accessible is the crank seal and sensor while doing the timing belt? If very accessible, I may just have them do it.
I like to supply my own parts ... do you have part numbers handy?
Thanks in advance.
Yes, very accessible, super ez when everything is off doing the timing belt, etc. That's why I hinted to do it then. You don't want to have to go back in to do crank sensor or crank seal.
Yes, very accessible, super ez when everything is off doing the timing belt, etc. That's why I hinted to do it then. You don't want to have to go back in to do crank sensor or crank seal.
The PO changed oil and had regular service done, including diff service at 100k.
Lexus says the transmission on the GX is "sealed for life", which is bogus. Do a drain + fill every 30k miles (more often if you tow or go offroad). That will get about 1/3 of the old fluid out, which is good enough. Do a 4x4 service at the same time, which is new fluids for front + rear differential and the transfer case. Plus greasing the zerk fittings on the driveshafts.
For the transmission fluid, use genuine Toyota. For the differentials & transfer case, use a good quality commercial gear lube (like a Castrol or Mobil-1). I don't recall what the weight is .. 75-90w maybe? It will be in your manual.
I just wanted to add clarity. The crank sensor is accessible w/o going in behind all the covers. It's just super ez when all those covers are off when doing the water pump stuff, etc.
Lexus says the transmission on the GX is "sealed for life", which is bogus. Do a drain + fill every 30k miles (more often if you tow or go offroad). That will get about 1/3 of the old fluid out, which is good enough. Do a 4x4 service at the same time, which is new fluids for front + rear differential and the transfer case. Plus greasing the zerk fittings on the driveshafts.
For the transmission fluid, use genuine Toyota. For the differentials & transfer case, use a good quality commercial gear lube (like a Castrol or Mobil-1). I don't recall what the weight is .. 75-90w maybe? It will be in your manual.
Chip H.
I think their terms align with their idea that a GX470 will last about 300kmi/15-20yrs before people give up on fixing and/or doing full engine makeover/replace. The sealed trans can probably go 300kmi w/o experiencing a failure, or get close to that.
I dropped the pan and installed a new filter somewhere near 80kmi (need to check my notebook), but now at 225k I need to at least swap out some oil.
I had the filter replaced somewhere around 150k miles. No metal particles found, but the fluid was black.
They told me they had to support it and remove a crossmember to have enough room to remove the pan.
Camshaft seals I would not do until they show signs of leaking. Mine are holding good at 225kmi. But, no foul in doing them.
You did not mention camshaft sensor. That one is easier when things are open. It can also be done after things are closed back up, but a tad more work than the crank sensor. I usually do the two sensors as a pair of work, but that's just me. Going to new should last remainder of engine life. I choose the Denso items for those sensors.
Camshaft seals I would not do until they show signs of leaking. Mine are holding good at 225kmi. But, no foul in doing them.
You did not mention camshaft sensor. That one is easier when things are open. It can also be done after things are closed back up, but a tad more work than the crank sensor. I usually do the two sensors as a pair of work, but that's just me. Going to new should last remainder of engine life. I choose the Denso items for those sensors.
What about the fan clutch? Is that still OEM?
Dropped it off this morning. No camshaft sensor.
Indy questioned doing the camshaft seals. He said it would add some extra time because of having to lock the cams in place. Didn't make sense to me because he was changing the timing belt anyway. He is going to asses how they look and let me know.
Question for those that have done it, the camshaft seal was huge compared to the crankshaft seal. Is that right or did I get the wrong part (I double and triple checked .. I think)
Indy questioned doing the camshaft seals. He said it would add some extra time because of having to lock the cams in place. Didn't make sense to me because he was changing the timing belt anyway. He is going to asses how they look and let me know.
Question for those that have done it, the camshaft seal was huge compared to the crankshaft seal. Is that right or did I get the wrong part (I double and triple checked .. I think)
Extra time yes. Bigger cam seals yes. Hard to do no.
Everything just needs to be marked after the "set" position is done (with belt on, etc). Then the crank should stay in place while the front cam seals are being done.
It's a lot of small stuff to do the cam seals, but not that hard at all.
10-13-20, 02:57 PM
Just another 'new to me' thread
