Cigarette Lighter Power
10-15-20, 09:27 AM
#1
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Cigarette Lighter Power
My 04 GX 470 is only used occasionally, in order to keep the battery charged, I bought a solar powered "battery tender" brand charger. The photocell mounts on the windshield with suction cups, the output plugs into the cigarette lighter. The lighter is not powered unless the vehicle is "on". Will the charger back feed the battery even though it's powered off? I suspect it will but would like some advice. I always wish automakers were not such meddling nanny's telling me what's good for me. I would have liked to have been able to charge my phone when the car was parked. While I'm at it, I still can't keep straight the lock/unlock icon on the door switch. A picture of a key on one half and a blank space on the other half. Do you need a key to lock your lock or do you need a key to un-lock your lock? My GM products have an open padlock and a locked padlock for an icon, self explanatory. Must be Japanese logic, culture gap I guess.
Thanks,
Sam
Thanks,
Sam
10-15-20, 11:21 AM
#2
Nope.
You need to remove the Cig fuse, and then inline that same fuse between Batt+ and the Red Arrow tip in this pic. This removes IgnSwitch and keeps Cig socket on all the time. The fuse should be as close to Batt+ as possible, etc.
Requires some re-wire work, but not terribly hard to do, etc.
(Why do you need a batt tender? Starting it to get the water out of the oil should always be done anyways. You do know about that "transportation" jumper in the fuse box? That white looking fuse is not a fuse, it's a jumper, factory places it into the holder slot for transportation reasons, dealer then puts it back into the 'in-use' location, and that's where it is now in your fuse box. Supposedly it removes power to non-essential stuff to take some drain off the batt)
You need to remove the Cig fuse, and then inline that same fuse between Batt+ and the Red Arrow tip in this pic. This removes IgnSwitch and keeps Cig socket on all the time. The fuse should be as close to Batt+ as possible, etc.
Requires some re-wire work, but not terribly hard to do, etc.
(Why do you need a batt tender? Starting it to get the water out of the oil should always be done anyways. You do know about that "transportation" jumper in the fuse box? That white looking fuse is not a fuse, it's a jumper, factory places it into the holder slot for transportation reasons, dealer then puts it back into the 'in-use' location, and that's where it is now in your fuse box. Supposedly it removes power to non-essential stuff to take some drain off the batt)
Last edited by Lexus4321; 10-15-20 at 11:29 AM.
10-16-20, 08:35 AM
#4
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Lexus 4321, Thanks for that reply. I'll do just that. I have battery tenders on all my motorcycles, as they are not used daily, especially on my 6 volt 1957 Harley, the only batteries available are from China or Viet Nam and 2 out of 3 have to be returned as they are junk right out of the box. Keeping them trickle charged is the only way to keep them somewhat reliable. I'm too lazy to start the GX on a regular basis, getting the charger out is way too much work for me, also, this will allow me to advertise the vehicle as a solar hybrid if and when I sell it. By the way, the radio no longer has any audio for any modes, can you or anyone recommend an economical DIY replacement? In over 200K miles it's the only thing that ever failed.
Thanks much,
Sam
Thanks much,
Sam
10-16-20, 09:43 AM
#5
Lexus 4321, Thanks for that reply. I'll do just that. I have battery tenders on all my motorcycles, as they are not used daily, especially on my 6 volt 1957 Harley, the only batteries available are from China or Viet Nam and 2 out of 3 have to be returned as they are junk right out of the box. Keeping them trickle charged is the only way to keep them somewhat reliable. I'm too lazy to start the GX on a regular basis, getting the charger out is way too much work for me, also, this will allow me to advertise the vehicle as a solar hybrid if and when I sell it. By the way, the radio no longer has any audio for any modes, can you or anyone recommend an economical DIY replacement? In over 200K miles it's the only thing that ever failed.
Thanks much,
Sam
Thanks much,
Sam
10-17-20, 08:22 AM
#7
From the wiring diagrams in Sticky, the audio amp fuse is in engine bay fuse box, a 30A "Radio Fuse 2". Check that fuse.
Last edited by Lexus4321; 10-17-20 at 08:29 AM.
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10-17-20, 07:53 PM
#8
Pole Position
The Nav system takes in audio from the amp and adds the voice to it (for the 6x9 speaker in the driver's door).
So if you hear the voice giving you directions, that tells you the speaker is good but unfortunately doesn't tell you if the amp is good.
What happens if you change input source? Find a known-good cassette to play and see if you can hear it.
Chip H.
So if you hear the voice giving you directions, that tells you the speaker is good but unfortunately doesn't tell you if the amp is good.
What happens if you change input source? Find a known-good cassette to play and see if you can hear it.
Chip H.
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