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I posted a bit ago for help with my paint, CV axle and ML speaker issues. With the help from the forums, I was able to take care of the paint/ ML speaker, but the CV axle boot has been a bit of a run around, and I was hoping to have some guidance on it. I own a 2007 GX470, and I noted that my passenger CV boot (closest to the wheel) has a slight tear, causing grease to go everywhere. I've looked around on forums, to which most people say to just buy the OEM boots and replace yourself. I was recommended to look into a split CV boot, but i couldn't find much information on one that was accepted - does anyone have a brand / part number that is reputable? Separate from a split boot, I called up Lexus to find an OEM replacement, and the person I spoke wasn't too knowledgeable on the CV axles. After getting her to send the manual over, I saw this assembly, 04438F (below), which she said that Lexus was selling for $85. Is this what I'm looking for? I've also seen others say part number 04427-60080, and others say to purchase the 4runner version, as everything is interchangeable. Can someone shed some light on this for me or direct me to a thread where this was covered? Also, do most buy from the dealer, or are there websites that carry this stuff that I can support (I'd rather support the small businesses than the dealer). Additionally... random noob question: Is the inner CV boot closest to the engine block, or closest to the wheel, and are CV boots the same driver and passenger side? The Lexus person i was talking to was trying to make it sound like they were different, which didn't make any sense to me...
That's not a split boot - that's just "the boots". You'll have to remove the axle in order to get them on there. And if you're paying that labor/spending that time, might as well just get a remanufactured axle and be good for 5+ years.
That's not a split boot - that's just "the boots". You'll have to remove the axle in order to get them on there. And if you're paying that labor/spending that time, might as well just get a remanufactured axle and be good for 5+ years.
Chip H.
I'd be doing it myself. Is there a big cost difference between buying just the boots and the whole assembly? If what lexus quoted me today is true, it was $85/ side vs like $550. Do you have a split boot you'd recommend/ place to buy?
I literally just had to do this (with the help of this forum )
Does the axle click when drive and make turns? That's bad
When the axle leaks, you have a certain amount of time before the joint fails due to dirt, lack of grease
Each axle has multiple boots, these boots fail with age
Choices
1) Put in a new OEM or aftermarket CV axle - more on parts / less on labor - the independent I used quote 2 shop hrs
2) Rebuild or have someone rebuild the existing axle - 3 shop hours for one failed boot (same source)
Your choices
1) put in a new OEM CV axle - more on parts / less on labor. I got an OEM Toyota axle for US$360 after coupon code from Bell Lexus in AZ
2) put in a reman'ed OEM axle. Look at https://www.cvjreman.com/. They rebuild OEM axles - I was looking at 9808 T
Cheaper than new b/c you get US$125 back (net cost 230) if you send him the old axle (this is before shipping)
3) put in a new aftermarket part - ppl have a wide degree of opinions as to whether this is a good or bad idea. Most of ebay parts were US$130-$150
4) Rebuild the boot and keep the existing joint. If you're going to take it out, think about replacing all the boots on that axle to save labor time going fwd
Not cheap but now you know -- GL
CV axles are on most (all?) AWD drive vehicles so it's not unicorn dust - most independents know how to fix this. OEM parts at full price are $530 but list online for cUS$400 before discounts
If money is a real issue, I'd chat to local wreckers and see if they have a OEM part for you in the yard or Ebay
Installing a boot is not so simple (need the correct tools, watch some u-toob vids), still need to undo the knuckle to get new boot on, need to install the oil/grease, need to crimp the rings properly. The lower a-arm bolts need to be cleaned and then torq'd back to spec, need a good TQ wrench for these, etc. I alway use blue loctite (minimum) on critical bolt items.
My suggestion would be this (the less painful way).
Buy the parts from RA, have a local shop install it.
Installing a boot is not so simple (need the correct tools, watch some u-toob vids), still need to undo the knuckle to get new boot on, need to install the oil/grease, need to crimp the rings properly. The lower a-arm bolts need to be cleaned and then torq'd back to spec, need a good TQ wrench for these, etc. I alway use blue loctite (minimum) on critical bolt items.
My suggestion would be this (the less painful way).
Buy the parts from RA, have a local shop install it.
First, thank you for the reply! As my name suggests, Noob. I didn't register that RA = rock auto. I ended up looking at them and have the ones that aren't remanufactured in my cart. Would you also do the seals on both the transmission as well as the wheel hub sides, or would this be overkill?
First, thank you for the reply! As my name suggests, Noob. I didn't register that RA = rock auto. I ended up looking at them and have the ones that aren't remanufactured in my cart. Would you also do the seals on both the transmission as well as the wheel hub sides, or would this be overkill?
Sincerely,
Evan
The seals on diff side are not ez to do, the seals on hub(wheel) side are ez to do. A decent shop can do both sides. When I did my axles ~2yrs ago I inspected the inner diff seal, it looked ok to me so I left it alone.
And yes, when axles need repair/replace from mileage I replace the hub seals.
The seals on diff side are not ez to do, the seals on hub(wheel) side are ez to do. A decent shop can do both sides. When I did my axles ~2yrs ago I inspected the inner diff seal, it looked ok to me so I left it alone.
And yes, when axles need repair/replace from mileage I replace the hub seals.
Which seals are those from RA? I was looking at the "axle shaft seal" but im assuming thats the diff side?
Which seals are those from RA? I was looking at the "axle shaft seal" but im assuming thats the diff side?
The inner hub seal is ez to pop out, but must go back w/o dinging it up (see note below). Use a piece of PVC pipe or something that fits to the inner diameter, knock it in carefully. You can also use a wooden dowel to gently go around to seat it fully. You must lube the inner lip before putting shaft back through. Make sure you DO NOT ding the seal or knock the retainer spring off when installing the cv axle. Hint: to keep the hub bearing "lubricated" (because its never been lubricated it's whole life) you can squirt a little gear oil into the well that's there on the inner side of the hub. This helps to prevent the bearing from seizing up later (they are old, etc).
Note: The CV axle outer end has a formed wiper seal on it. It continuously wipes across the face of the inner hub seal frame (metal). It's essential that the inner seal frame face not be dinged up, otherwise the cv wiper would be like rotating around on sandpaper and eventually that wiper seal will be destroyed. A light coat of grease or gear oil on the cv axle wiper seal (the wiper surface that faces the wheel hub seal) is a must.
10-26-20, 11:11 AM
CV Axle
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