Shop re-checking their work - list of what to ask them to look at specifically?!?
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Shop re-checking their work - list of what to ask them to look at specifically?!?
Hey all,
So a shop I was referred to replaced my front cv axles (both) and did my front brakes about a month ago. Ever since then the GX has had vibration issues/rough ride mainly through the floor and seats. I've had no other work done to the car and these symptoms did not exist before I brought the car in. I contacted them and am having them look over the car/their work since it's warrantied.
I want to go in tomorrow with a list of specific items I want looked at so they cant just give it a glance over and say "yep we did everything right dont know what to tell you". Can you give me some specific items I should ask them to look at? So far I've heard the following from several people:
- hub/wheel nut (make sure they tightened it to spec)
- tie rod end lock nut, rack pinion arm (should not have been touched, did they mess with it?)
- inspect ball joints, specifically lower.
I do have lose bushings in a control arm causing play but this is something I had before the service and didn't cause the vibration I'm describing so I think they are separate issues.... any other advice would be greatly appreciated. this is killing me...the car is just not enjoyable to drive riding this way.
So a shop I was referred to replaced my front cv axles (both) and did my front brakes about a month ago. Ever since then the GX has had vibration issues/rough ride mainly through the floor and seats. I've had no other work done to the car and these symptoms did not exist before I brought the car in. I contacted them and am having them look over the car/their work since it's warrantied.
I want to go in tomorrow with a list of specific items I want looked at so they cant just give it a glance over and say "yep we did everything right dont know what to tell you". Can you give me some specific items I should ask them to look at? So far I've heard the following from several people:
- hub/wheel nut (make sure they tightened it to spec)
- tie rod end lock nut, rack pinion arm (should not have been touched, did they mess with it?)
- inspect ball joints, specifically lower.
I do have lose bushings in a control arm causing play but this is something I had before the service and didn't cause the vibration I'm describing so I think they are separate issues.... any other advice would be greatly appreciated. this is killing me...the car is just not enjoyable to drive riding this way.
#2
The steering joint and the swaybar link has to come off before the knuckle is undone from the lower a-arm, so the axle can be removed, but this does not goof up anything in those areas.
A "vibration"? Like how? Like a engine running on 7cyl, or like some wheel weights missing? The latter would be felt in the steering wheel.
What axle was installed? A new OEM axle, new or reman aftermarket, or was it a rebuild? Did the inboard side snap ring snap all the way in? Anything leaking? Did they refill the diff oil after the work?
Likely not a axle nut, unless it was left so loose that the cotter pin could not be installed. The hub bearing is fixed in the hub and is splined, it's not like a old vehicle taper bearings on knuckle axle shaft where an improper tightened nut could leave lots of play that causes issues. Heck, I just wrench down the nut as tight as I can make it to the next full hole for cotter pin, I use no TQ wrench there, never had an issue in that area.
I find it odd you describe a vibration that is not in the steering wheel, yet all the parts you describe would vibrate into the steering.
Check diff oil level.
Check for missing wheel weights on all wheels.
A "vibration"? Like how? Like a engine running on 7cyl, or like some wheel weights missing? The latter would be felt in the steering wheel.
What axle was installed? A new OEM axle, new or reman aftermarket, or was it a rebuild? Did the inboard side snap ring snap all the way in? Anything leaking? Did they refill the diff oil after the work?
Likely not a axle nut, unless it was left so loose that the cotter pin could not be installed. The hub bearing is fixed in the hub and is splined, it's not like a old vehicle taper bearings on knuckle axle shaft where an improper tightened nut could leave lots of play that causes issues. Heck, I just wrench down the nut as tight as I can make it to the next full hole for cotter pin, I use no TQ wrench there, never had an issue in that area.
I find it odd you describe a vibration that is not in the steering wheel, yet all the parts you describe would vibrate into the steering.
Check diff oil level.
Check for missing wheel weights on all wheels.
#3
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
The steering joint and the swaybar link has to come off before the knuckle is undone from the lower a-arm, so the axle can be removed, but this does not goof up anything in those areas.
A "vibration"? Like how? Like a engine running on 7cyl, or like some wheel weights missing? The latter would be felt in the steering wheel.
What axle was installed? A new OEM axle, new or reman aftermarket, or was it a rebuild? Did the inboard side snap ring snap all the way in? Anything leaking? Did they refill the diff oil after the work?
Likely not a axle nut, unless it was left so loose that the cotter pin could not be installed. The hub bearing is fixed in the hub and is splined, it's not like a old vehicle taper bearings on knuckle axle shaft where an improper tightened nut could leave lots of play that causes issues. Heck, I just wrench down the nut as tight as I can make it to the next full hole for cotter pin, I use no TQ wrench there, never had an issue in that area.
I find it odd you describe a vibration that is not in the steering wheel, yet all the parts you describe would vibrate into the steering.
Check diff oil level.
Check for missing wheel weights on all wheels.
A "vibration"? Like how? Like a engine running on 7cyl, or like some wheel weights missing? The latter would be felt in the steering wheel.
What axle was installed? A new OEM axle, new or reman aftermarket, or was it a rebuild? Did the inboard side snap ring snap all the way in? Anything leaking? Did they refill the diff oil after the work?
Likely not a axle nut, unless it was left so loose that the cotter pin could not be installed. The hub bearing is fixed in the hub and is splined, it's not like a old vehicle taper bearings on knuckle axle shaft where an improper tightened nut could leave lots of play that causes issues. Heck, I just wrench down the nut as tight as I can make it to the next full hole for cotter pin, I use no TQ wrench there, never had an issue in that area.
I find it odd you describe a vibration that is not in the steering wheel, yet all the parts you describe would vibrate into the steering.
Check diff oil level.
Check for missing wheel weights on all wheels.
I've already had the wheels balanced then, and rebalanced since then. Nothing changed.
new/reman aftermarket axle, both sides.
I dont know what the inboard side snap ring even is? I dont know if they refilled the diff oil after the work, its not on the write up.... This shop specializes in land rover/range rover 4x4 vehicles in general and I'm handy but not a car expert by any means.. I assumed they knew what to do considering they advised me to do this service...
I'm as lost/clueless as you seem to be. My front shocks definitely need to be replaced but before this service there was no vibration so I don't think it could be that?
It just doesn't make sense, the car drove smoother when I had almost completely shot and hard rubber old tires on it and with axles that had torn boots....now it has brand new wheels and axles and just feels gross.
Last edited by DMV703; 10-27-20 at 01:40 PM.
#4
Pole Position
If you have a good jack (don't use the one in the car), get the front wheels off the ground then check for play.
Chip H.
Chip H.
#5
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
If you have a good jack (don't use the one in the car), get the front wheels off the ground then check for play.
Chip H.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZZtAW21-TGE
Chip H.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZZtAW21-TGE
I even brought up the wheel bearing and he said 100% no, you would hear the howling. Anyways no help from them. Wasn't planning on returning there for service and now definitely wont be. Told me to maybe take air out of my tires (even though they've been inflated at same psi since they were put on) to see if that helped....
#6
A gravel like sound, to me sounds like a needle bearing, or possible the CV axle itself. I don't think it's your wheel hub bearing. The diff (cv axles) bearing maybe.
What CV axles were installed (make/model)??
As chip says, lift the wheel, start poking around. You might need to lift it on jack stands on all 4 corners, then idle it in 4wd (need 2 people for this !!!), and listen to see if you can hear crunching anywhere from the fronts.
Does your driveshaft feel loose at all?
What CV axles were installed (make/model)??
As chip says, lift the wheel, start poking around. You might need to lift it on jack stands on all 4 corners, then idle it in 4wd (need 2 people for this !!!), and listen to see if you can hear crunching anywhere from the fronts.
Does your driveshaft feel loose at all?
The following users liked this post:
chiph9 (10-28-20)
Trending Topics
#8
Pole Position
Yep, loose U-joint bolts on the driveshafts would also be something to look at. As well as seeing if they're dry (never been greased like they should have been)
I would find a new shop - those guys sound like monkeys.
Chip H.
I would find a new shop - those guys sound like monkeys.
Chip H.
#9
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
A gravel like sound, to me sounds like a needle bearing, or possible the CV axle itself. I don't think it's your wheel hub bearing. The diff (cv axles) bearing maybe.
What CV axles were installed (make/model)??
As chip says, lift the wheel, start poking around. You might need to lift it on jack stands on all 4 corners, then idle it in 4wd (need 2 people for this !!!), and listen to see if you can hear crunching anywhere from the fronts.
Does your driveshaft feel loose at all?
What CV axles were installed (make/model)??
As chip says, lift the wheel, start poking around. You might need to lift it on jack stands on all 4 corners, then idle it in 4wd (need 2 people for this !!!), and listen to see if you can hear crunching anywhere from the fronts.
Does your driveshaft feel loose at all?
#10
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Overland 4x4 in Alexandria
Also charge $150/hour.... figured it was a safe bet considering they specialize in Land Rover/Range Rover and had decent reviews...but I'll never be going back. Also quoted me twice as much as every other shop in the area for labor to do front struts/shocks (quoted me almost $1k just in labor where everyone else has been half or less).
Avoid. Exline Automotive/Offroad in Springfield is one to look at. Only been once but will be going back. good reviews, solid prices, owner seems knowledgeable and like he actually cares. They did my rear shocks (Bilstein 5100's) for under $200 in labor.
Also charge $150/hour.... figured it was a safe bet considering they specialize in Land Rover/Range Rover and had decent reviews...but I'll never be going back. Also quoted me twice as much as every other shop in the area for labor to do front struts/shocks (quoted me almost $1k just in labor where everyone else has been half or less).
Avoid. Exline Automotive/Offroad in Springfield is one to look at. Only been once but will be going back. good reviews, solid prices, owner seems knowledgeable and like he actually cares. They did my rear shocks (Bilstein 5100's) for under $200 in labor.
#11
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Trust me, never going back. Had a go to shop but its a solid hour from where I live now. Was trying to find something reliable a little closer so its been trial and error.
#12
gravel in terms of feel not sound. I'm having no noticeable sounds that cause any concerns, its just the feeling. In general it feels like I can feel every single bump/crack in the road. Just an overall "rough" ride that doesn't make sense considering 4 brand new wheels and tires (Wildpeak AT3's Falken).
But you said the new tires were on prior to the work being done and you did not have the issue. What I can suggest here is, lower tire pressure to say 29psi, drive it to see if the issue is still there, then repeat say at 39-40psi. Does the gravel feel change at all? If not then tires are not it. I would not think tires at this point, you would have noticed that issue from the start of new tires.
What new wheels? New rims? Are they rubbing anything? But again, I would suspect you would have noticed this immediately after installing new wheels w/ new tires.
What make/model CV axles are they? Did you buy them, or did the shop supply them?
Inspect around underneath, did you pick up any garbage that might be flapping when driving?
Also check the running board covers (the black part you step on), are the firmly attached everywhere? I have a missing clip and at certain speeds that cover flaps just enough to make a sound I can hear.
Also, roof rack, make sure the cross members have the screws tight. Years ago one bar had some loose screws on passenger side, it was making a knocking sound but it was odd, it had me looking under the vehicle and not up top.
Did the shop re-verify the front diff was topped off after the axles installed?
If after all that checks out ok, I might suspect the axles, which may be causing vibration right into the front diff, which is itself secured tight to the vehicle chassis, and perhaps that's how you are feeling this from driver seat.
Last edited by Lexus4321; 10-29-20 at 01:38 PM.
#14
From some other threads here in CL, when you feel the noise grab onto the transfer shifter ****, is it vibrating like crazy? Will it vibrate more or less at different speeds?
The other thread also mentions go through 4x4 steps, 4x hi, 4x lo, back to 2x hi, drive each a little bit (~100ft each, dirt road preferable to avoid 4x bind, etc).
The other thread also mentions go through 4x4 steps, 4x hi, 4x lo, back to 2x hi, drive each a little bit (~100ft each, dirt road preferable to avoid 4x bind, etc).
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
RXRider13
Lexus Audio, Video, Security & Electronics
3
10-27-20 07:02 AM
neilly86
GX - 1st Gen (2003-2009)
12
09-12-20 10:29 AM
HowdyAudi
LS - 1st and 2nd Gen (1990-2000)
6
01-10-13 09:47 PM