Bilstein 5100 install
#1
Bilstein 5100 install
2021 TRD PRO wheels wrapped in Wildpeak AT3W. Will be removing the running boards and installing Bilstein 5100s front and rear tomorrow. Will also be doing the airbag trick with the washers for now. Anything I need to be aware of or is it all pretty straight forward? What did you guys do with the front comfort adjust sensors? I have never done any of this before but my buddy who’s helping me has all the tools and lots of experience working on his 5th gen 4Runner. He’s never worked on a GX before. So any tips would be appreciated!
#2
The job is really straightforward, I did this with my front struts with 4600s a couple of months ago. I chose to reuse my springs and that was the biggest problem because no local auto parts store had the spring compressor tool so I paid a auto shop to do it for me.
ive got a northern vehicle so rusty fasteners we’re a problem. If you have rust, soak everything in Liquid Wrench. I wanted to save the mechanisms that control dampening if I ever wanted to go back to OEM, but the inaccessibility of the fasteners at the top of the strut mount and rust made me have to destroy them and cut them off. Not an issue since with the Bilsteins you’ll have no damper control anyways
ive got a northern vehicle so rusty fasteners we’re a problem. If you have rust, soak everything in Liquid Wrench. I wanted to save the mechanisms that control dampening if I ever wanted to go back to OEM, but the inaccessibility of the fasteners at the top of the strut mount and rust made me have to destroy them and cut them off. Not an issue since with the Bilsteins you’ll have no damper control anyways
#3
The job is really straightforward, I did this with my front struts with 4600s a couple of months ago. I chose to reuse my springs and that was the biggest problem because no local auto parts store had the spring compressor tool so I paid a auto shop to do it for me.
ive got a northern vehicle so rusty fasteners we’re a problem. If you have rust, soak everything in Liquid Wrench. I wanted to save the mechanisms that control dampening if I ever wanted to go back to OEM, but the inaccessibility of the fasteners at the top of the strut mount and rust made me have to destroy them and cut them off. Not an issue since with the Bilsteins you’ll have no damper control anyways
ive got a northern vehicle so rusty fasteners we’re a problem. If you have rust, soak everything in Liquid Wrench. I wanted to save the mechanisms that control dampening if I ever wanted to go back to OEM, but the inaccessibility of the fasteners at the top of the strut mount and rust made me have to destroy them and cut them off. Not an issue since with the Bilsteins you’ll have no damper control anyways
#4
You're never going back to OEM shocks, the $$$ isn't worth it once you've tried something better and cheaper.
If your truck has spent it's life on the east coast, it's likely a bit crusty underneath, don't expect the small bolts for the e-adj shock adjusters to come out willingly. Cut the adjuster bracket fasteners at the top of the strut mount, the harness unplugs further back into the engine bay if you follow it. Be prepared to use an air hammer/chisel if the shock is seized in the spring perch like mine was. The rear harness I think I just tucked/taped up under the truck, there was no connector I could find. You're probably going to have to cut the rear shock shafts as well, as the nut will be part of the shaft by now. Being prepared to take alternative measures will cut your job time down considerably.
Take a look at your swaybar endlinks, as you'll be having to disconnect them as part of the install, if they come apart and are in good shape you can reuse them, but if they are coming off with a grinder... have new ones on hand just in case.
Buy a can of PB Blaster or similar, and hit every bolt you need to mess with at least 3-4 times leading up to the install, it will save you time overall. Don't forget the ABS line bracket bolts!
I'm using Dobinsons twintube shocks (comfort valved rears), and 2"F/1"R springs, and it rides so much better in every situation than stock. Firm, but never harsh is the best way to describe it. Handles better on the street to boot. The airbags are nice for hooking on/off trailers and towing, but it tows fine with the Dobinsons rear springs too, so not a good reason to stick with airbags IMO.
If your truck has spent it's life on the east coast, it's likely a bit crusty underneath, don't expect the small bolts for the e-adj shock adjusters to come out willingly. Cut the adjuster bracket fasteners at the top of the strut mount, the harness unplugs further back into the engine bay if you follow it. Be prepared to use an air hammer/chisel if the shock is seized in the spring perch like mine was. The rear harness I think I just tucked/taped up under the truck, there was no connector I could find. You're probably going to have to cut the rear shock shafts as well, as the nut will be part of the shaft by now. Being prepared to take alternative measures will cut your job time down considerably.
Take a look at your swaybar endlinks, as you'll be having to disconnect them as part of the install, if they come apart and are in good shape you can reuse them, but if they are coming off with a grinder... have new ones on hand just in case.
Buy a can of PB Blaster or similar, and hit every bolt you need to mess with at least 3-4 times leading up to the install, it will save you time overall. Don't forget the ABS line bracket bolts!
I'm using Dobinsons twintube shocks (comfort valved rears), and 2"F/1"R springs, and it rides so much better in every situation than stock. Firm, but never harsh is the best way to describe it. Handles better on the street to boot. The airbags are nice for hooking on/off trailers and towing, but it tows fine with the Dobinsons rear springs too, so not a good reason to stick with airbags IMO.
#5
ive got a northern vehicle so rusty fasteners we’re a problem. If you have rust, soak everything in Liquid Wrench. I wanted to save the mechanisms that control dampening if I ever wanted to go back to OEM, but the inaccessibility of the fasteners at the top of the strut mount and rust made me have to destroy them and cut them off. Not an issue since with the Bilsteins you’ll have no damper control anyways
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Bill P.
GX - 1st Gen (2003-2009)
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08-29-04 03:55 PM