GX - 1st Gen (2003-2009) Discussion topics related to the 2003 -2009 GX470 models

Air Suspension Problems or Questions

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Old 10-13-21, 08:34 AM
  #451  
Jpilot
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Your shocks have nothing to do with your ride height. they merely dampen the spring effect of the suspension, so you don't bounce down the road.
I just replaced my shocks on my 2006. Factory shocks never responded to the ride switch. When I removed them, they were both pretty well shot.
As for the ride height, I would look into some helper air bags that fit inside the coil spring. I have these installed on one of my 4runners and they work great as bump stops as well as a leveling solution with heavy loads.
check out these, you may be able to hook them up to your OEM pump (though its not really needed). You will probably need to rewire the pump, adding a switch to turn on, as it was using your ride height sensor to turn on and off as needed. With my bags, I just pump them to 12psi and leave them alone. If you have a heavy load, you can add pressure and relieve later.
https://www.sdtrucksprings.com/index...oducts_id=6278
Old 10-13-21, 09:05 AM
  #452  
IanB2
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When you convert to rear springs, you also need to convert to spring-spec rear outboard bump stops (seperate from the in-coil sping isolators), as the airbag-spec ones are too long and will come into play too early when using rear springs. They are found in the top of the rear wheel wells, and the ones to suit rear springs are shorter, can be sourced from 4th gen 4Runners without rear air suspension.

If you stick your head under, you'll see how much room you have for the suspension to cycle before the bump stops contact, and if you look on the top of the axle tube you should be able to see if they've been making contact regularly.
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Old 10-13-21, 02:07 PM
  #453  
chiph9
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Towing and not wanting rear-end sag is a good reason to retain the air springs.

Chip H.
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Old 10-13-21, 02:36 PM
  #454  
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Originally Posted by IanB2
When you convert to rear springs, you also need to convert to spring-spec rear outboard bump stops (seperate from the in-coil sping isolators), as the airbag-spec ones are too long and will come into play too early when using rear springs. They are found in the top of the rear wheel wells, and the ones to suit rear springs are shorter, can be sourced from 4th gen 4Runners without rear air suspension.

If you stick your head under, you'll see how much room you have for the suspension to cycle before the bump stops contact, and if you look on the top of the axle tube you should be able to see if they've been making contact regularly.
That makes perfect sense! I was thinking there is no way a 350 had a stronger suspension than truck coils for a 470. This is good to know!

Old 10-24-21, 07:50 AM
  #455  
Pkna1
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Originally Posted by Lexus 4 ME
I found this website I am sure that a lot of people saw this website. I would like to know if anybody installed this kit.

Here is the link http://www.strutmasters.com/Lexus-GX.../-gx470-r1.htm

If you already install this kit, then I would like to know how does it feel in terms of is stiff or too soft, or you didnt feel the difference?
Thinking a buying Strutmaster conversion kit on my '03 GX470. How did your installation work for you?
Old 10-25-21, 06:56 AM
  #456  
IanB2
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Originally Posted by Pkna1
Thinking a buying Strutmaster conversion kit on my '03 GX470. How did your installation work for you?
Last post in this thread was from 11 years ago, don't hold your breathe, lol.
Old 10-26-21, 06:15 AM
  #457  
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Originally Posted by IanB2
When you convert to rear springs, you also need to convert to spring-spec rear outboard bump stops (seperate from the in-coil sping isolators), as the airbag-spec ones are too long and will come into play too early when using rear springs. They are found in the top of the rear wheel wells, and the ones to suit rear springs are shorter, can be sourced from 4th gen 4Runners without rear air suspension.

If you stick your head under, you'll see how much room you have for the suspension to cycle before the bump stops contact, and if you look on the top of the axle tube you should be able to see if they've been making contact regularly.
Well it took some time but i had a closer look under the back and, just as you said, the axle bump-stop is only ~2-2.5 inches away from the axle. Thanks for the info. I will try the shorter stops first then see how things feel regarding shocks/airbags.
Old 10-26-21, 06:25 AM
  #458  
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Originally Posted by Jpilot
Your shocks have nothing to do with your ride height. they merely dampen the spring effect of the suspension, so you don't bounce down the road.
I just replaced my shocks on my 2006. Factory shocks never responded to the ride switch. When I removed them, they were both pretty well shot.
Did you replace yours with the pricey OEM shocks or some normal non-controllable ones? The ride-firmness selection seems more like a sales tool than a functional or often used option. Adjustable at the shock would likely be good enough if that is even needed.

Also, I dabble in off-road RC racing so I have a pretty good grasp of the job of shocks vs springs. In that world shocks are more important when it comes to bottoming than the springs. My thinking was that more dampening could stop the bottoming without changing ride-height. Now that I see how limited my travel is, I doubt that a shock exists that would stop the bottoming.
Old 10-26-21, 06:28 AM
  #459  
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Originally Posted by GSGXNC
Did you replace yours with the pricey OEM shocks or some normal non-controllable ones? The ride-firmness selection seems more like a sales tool than a functional or often used option. Adjustable at the shock would likely be good enough if that is even needed.

Also, I dabble in off-road RC racing so I have a pretty good grasp of the job of shocks vs springs. In that world shocks are more important when it comes to bottoming than the springs. My thinking was that more dampening could stop the bottoming without changing ride-height. Now that I see how limited my travel is, I doubt that a shock exists that would stop the bottoming.
There are much better shocks for less money than stock e-adj units. I'm using Dobinsons comfort valved, basic shocks, no adjustability, they have always performed better than stock for me.
Old 10-26-21, 11:23 AM
  #460  
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Originally Posted by GSGXNC
Did you replace yours with the pricey OEM shocks or some normal non-controllable ones? The ride-firmness selection seems more like a sales tool than a functional or often used option. Adjustable at the shock would likely be good enough if that is even needed.

Also, I dabble in off-road RC racing so I have a pretty good grasp of the job of shocks vs springs. In that world shocks are more important when it comes to bottoming than the springs. My thinking was that more dampening could stop the bottoming without changing ride-height. Now that I see how limited my travel is, I doubt that a shock exists that would stop the bottoming.
I put on a set of Toytec 2.0 shocks. Way better than anything this truck came with.

Old 10-26-21, 01:14 PM
  #461  
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Originally Posted by IanB2
There are much better shocks for less money than stock e-adj units. I'm using Dobinsons comfort valved, basic shocks, no adjustability, they have always performed better than stock for me.
But you cannot really compare e-adj shocks to manual adj or non-adj shocks. There's a benefit to be able to stiffen or soften the shocks from a **** within the cab.

Old 11-19-21, 11:08 AM
  #462  
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Arrow Metal arm adjustment?

Originally Posted by Jafch1
Heres the best way to figure out which component of the air suspension has died out.

With the car on, raise the height control to HIGH. Once it has reached this height, turn the car off and look at the height between the tire and the wheel fenders. Leave your car over night or a few hours and return to it. Has the measurement changed from when you had pumped it up? If so, you have a faulty airbag OR leaking air hose.

The best way to diagnose the issue above is to go get a spray bottle with soapy water. Spray down the airbags and the air suspension hoses. If you notice any soap bubbles starting to form, there is your leak!

Also while down under your vehicle, inspect the airbags. Do they have cracks in them? Does the plastic/rubber material look to be in good condition?

This is no good.

......................................................................................................................
If the above did not yield you any luck, then proceed reading.

Go underneath your car with a 10mm wrench. To the side of both airbags, you will see this metal arm:

Using your 10MM wrench, go ahead and adjust both sides to the same setting, while adjusting the arms, raise and lower them with your hand and if possible, get some WD-40 and spray the living heck out of them. Then go into your GX and re-calibrate the air suspension (process shown below) and go for a drive.
What exactly is the metal arm adjustment shown above for - wrt the operation of the air bags??
Old 11-19-21, 02:42 PM
  #463  
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Those are the adjustments for the vehicle rear height sensors. They tell the computer when to pump air and when to vent air from the air springs.

It's possible for the sensor to go bad from age & use, with the resistance strip inside developing dead-spots. You can open them up and clean the contacts & strip, and if you're handy that's a good option as they're about $400 each.

Adjusting it temporarily to the far end will probably get the contact arm past any dead spot, and you can see if the system responds normally (albeit to the wrong height).
Before you do this, measure the distance from the center of the rear wheel hub to the fender lip on each side. Don't measure to the ground as you'd then be including the tire inflation in the measurement. Once you're done testing the height sensor, retighten the bolt in the adjustment slot to restore the original ride height.


Chip H.
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Old 11-19-21, 03:45 PM
  #464  
Sixofnine
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Arrow

Originally Posted by chiph9
Those are the adjustments for the vehicle rear height sensors. They tell the computer when to pump air and when to vent air from the air springs.

It's possible for the sensor to go bad from age & use, with the resistance strip inside developing dead-spots. You can open them up and clean the contacts & strip, and if you're handy that's a good option as they're about $400 each.

Adjusting it temporarily to the far end will probably get the contact arm past any dead spot, and you can see if the system responds normally (albeit to the wrong height).
Before you do this, measure the distance from the center of the rear wheel hub to the fender lip on each side. Don't measure to the ground as you'd then be including the tire inflation in the measurement. Once you're done testing the height sensor, retighten the bolt in the adjustment slot to restore the original ride height.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_AwYPlcHDwA

Chip H.
Thanks! My problem is so weird. Both sides either stay normal or sag at the same rate. I did the "reset" (going from low to normal to high with the switch) last night. Seemed to work fine. Like, the height held overnight last night just fine (though more often than not it would have sagged). Most of today it held normal height. Went into a quicktrip to get a drink and it was already sagged by the time I came out. wtf? Drives totally normal though, and comes up to height quickly. This has been going on for quite some time. Oddly, when TX had the big freeze last February, the suspension held air for the entire week of cold weather. (and man do these GX's drive well in the snow and ice!)
Old 11-19-21, 06:54 PM
  #465  
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It has happened to people that there's a crack in the folds of the airbag, and it only leaks after it gets flexed a certain way. Raise it all the way up, and spritz some soapy water on them to check for leaks.

But if you've never replaced them, you're probably due.

Chip H.


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