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Buying a GX 470 - what to expect in a 100k+ truck?

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Old 08-10-13, 08:19 AM
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maybegx
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Default Buying a GX 470 - what to expect in a 100k+ truck?

I'm new and I've spent the last 30 minutes (And probably the next 2 hours) poking around for info.

I'm considering purchasing a GX 470 ~ 100k miles.

This would be a 2nd car for us and used 1-2 times per week (currently anyway), and for weekend trips into the mountains (we're in CO).

It will see a lot of snow, and it will see the occasional trail if we go hiking on a jeep/fire road. Let's be honest, I'm not crossing the Rubicon here, but there will be some occasional offroading.

So some concerns:
1) Seems like the air suspension in these things is prone to go. How can you tell if the truck sitting in front of you has a problem? With people throwing in aftermarket suspensions, I assume this means you lose clearance?

2) looks like timing belt/pump @ 90k or so. Any other major expenses to factor in?

3) What else should I be looking for as tell-tale signs the car is in good/bad shape?

4) Any buying guides someone can point me to?
Old 08-10-13, 08:42 AM
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cssnms
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Originally Posted by maybegx
I'm new and I've spent the last 30 minutes (And probably the next 2 hours) poking around for info.

I'm considering purchasing a GX 470 ~ 100k miles.

This would be a 2nd car for us and used 1-2 times per week (currently anyway), and for weekend trips into the mountains (we're in CO).

It will see a lot of snow, and it will see the occasional trail if we go hiking on a jeep/fire road. Let's be honest, I'm not crossing the Rubicon here, but there will be some occasional offroading.

So some concerns:
1) Seems like the air suspension in these things is prone to go. How can you tell if the truck sitting in front of you has a problem? With people throwing in aftermarket suspensions, I assume this means you lose clearance?

2) looks like timing belt/pump @ 90k or so. Any other major expenses to factor in?

3) What else should I be looking for as tell-tale signs the car is in good/bad shape?

4) Any buying guides someone can point me to?
It's a reliable and quality truck and make no mistake the GX is VERY off-road capable, it did not wind 4x4 of the year several years running for nothing.

As with any vehicle with higher mileage expect there will be some things that need to be replaced and suspension components are no different. Difference being the components that go along with the air suspension are just more expensive.

There are options when it comes time to replace to include converting to a non-air suspension system in which case you lose the leveling suspension. Second, you can find parts like the OEM expensive rear shocks for less on ebay and have an indy install for you as well non OEM air bag options can be found on ebay for as little as $350.

Short of putting the truck on a lift and looking for tears in the air bags or leaking shocks, exercise the air suspension when test drive. Raise it, lower it and see if it is operating as it should. Drive the truck a good bit over different road conditions see how the suspension feels. When set to the 2nd softest setting, the suspension should feel soft yet firm/controlled if that makes sense. The rear should not sag and the compressor should only run when the suspension is trying to level a load - like with passengers in the back-seat, then shut off.

Check the radiator to see that is not leaking. Drivers side bottom corner is the common place - looks for crusty pink stuff. This is an easy relatively inexpensive fix with an aftermarket radiator and an indy shop installing.

There are plenty of threads on here that discuss some of the more common issues that crop up at higher mileage. Nothing of real significance in my opinion except the dash cracking phenomenon.

Buyer's Guide? Not sure what you are after here, check on line to compare pricing in your area. Pricing is usually specific to a location and availability, not to mention the condition of the vehicle. Otherwise you can refer to a publication like Consumer's Report or the like.
Old 08-10-13, 09:07 AM
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maybegx
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Originally Posted by cssnms
There are options when it comes time to replace to include converting to a non-air suspension system in which case you lose the leveling suspension. Second, you can find parts like the OEM expensive rear shocks for less on ebay and have an indy install for you as well non OEM air bag options can be found on ebay for as little as $350.
So basically there are aftermarket knockoffs for the same suspension system available OR you can convert to a normal suspension system.

Does converting to normal cost you the ability to raise/lower the suspension - is that what you mean here?

What's the ~ cost of each option? It's my impression that replacing the OEM suspension is like $2500


Originally Posted by cssnms
Short of putting the truck on a lift and looking for tears in the air bags or leaking shocks, exercise the air suspension when test drive. Raise it, lower it and see if it is operating as it should. Drive the truck a good bit over different road conditions see how the suspension feels. When set to the 2nd softest setting, the suspension should feel soft yet firm/controlled if that makes sense. The rear should not sag and the compressor should only run when the suspension is trying to level a load - like with passengers in the back-seat, then shut off.
So compressor running randomly = leak?

Originally Posted by cssnms
Check the radiator to see that is not leaking. Drivers side bottom corner is the common place - looks for crusty pink stuff. This is an easy relatively inexpensive fix with an aftermarket radiator and an indy shop installing.

There are plenty of threads on here that discuss some of the more common issues that crop up at higher mileage. Nothing of real significance in my opinion except the dash cracking phenomenon.

Buyer's Guide? Not sure what you are after here, check on line to compare pricing in your area. Pricing is usually specific to a location and availability, not to mention the condition of the vehicle. Otherwise you can refer to a publication like Consumer's Report or the like.
Basically a more elaborate and detailed version of whast you just said! "what to look for when buying this car", etc

Thanks!
Old 08-10-13, 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by maybegx
So basically there are aftermarket knockoffs for the same suspension system available OR you can convert to a normal suspension system.

Does converting to normal cost you the ability to raise/lower the suspension - is that what you mean here?

What's the ~ cost of each option? It's my impression that replacing the OEM suspension is like $2500



So compressor running randomly = leak?



Basically a more elaborate and detailed version of whast you just said! "what to look for when buying this car", etc

Thanks!
There are non-oem airbag options. The airbags are what raise and lower the rear. Converting to a non-air suspension you lose the ability to raise/lower and level the rear of the truck Personally I like this feature which is why I purchased new rear OEM shocks off ebay. If it comes time to replace the airbags I will try the aftermarket bags sold on ebay as well.

Cost will vary and you can do some digging for parts costs to get an idea. Your question is too broad to give a specific answer. I paid around $400 for the front shocks and $120 to install. I then paid approx. $699 for the rear shocks and I expect it will run another $100 through my local indy shop to install.

If the compressor continues to run or kicks on an off and the load has not changed, that could indicate a leak in the airbag. A soft/mushy rear suspension or a rear end that feels like it wants to wander when you do a quick swerve/lane change could indicate a bad shock. That said, it's not going to handle like a sports car, but the ride should feel controlled and comfortable and the suspension should respond in a controlled even manner when under hard braking.

Last edited by cssnms; 08-10-13 at 09:28 AM.
Old 08-10-13, 10:14 AM
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IanB2
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Front calipers are prone to seizing, so make sure the brakes aren't making scrubbing sounds when you drive. Most of the common issues have been identified here already, they are very good vehicles IMO.
Old 08-10-13, 12:38 PM
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Get the VIN and go to the lexus drivers site. You can plug it in and see all the maintenance that has been done on the vehicle through the lexus dealer.

Can be useful if the selling dealer doesnt know the maintenance history especially if the timing belt has/has not been done.

I recently bought an '06 sport with 118k miles on it but it was serviced by the dealer every 5k miles and all the required maintenance had been done. Not an indicator of how dependable it will be in the future but a little measure of confidence that the previous owner took good care of the vehicle.
Old 08-10-13, 09:10 PM
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maybegx
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Originally Posted by 99suprduty
Get the VIN and go to the lexus drivers site. You can plug it in and see all the maintenance that has been done on the vehicle through the lexus dealer.

Can be useful if the selling dealer doesnt know the maintenance history especially if the timing belt has/has not been done.

I recently bought an '06 sport with 118k miles on it but it was serviced by the dealer every 5k miles and all the required maintenance had been done. Not an indicator of how dependable it will be in the future but a little measure of confidence that the previous owner took good care of the vehicle.
Is 5k the recomended oil change vs 3k?
Old 08-10-13, 10:56 PM
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IanB2
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Originally Posted by maybegx
Is 5k the recomended oil change vs 3k?
Yup. 8,000kms rather than the regular 5,000 for oil changes.
Old 08-11-13, 06:58 AM
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Originally Posted by maybegx
Is 5k the recomended oil change vs 3k?
There are varying schools of thought on oil change intervals and forums dedicated tot he subject to include what's the best type of oil. That would depend on the type of oil used. If synthetic, 8k to 10k would be okay IMO. If conventional, then 3k-5k would be right.
Old 08-11-13, 12:42 PM
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Good suggestions.

I purchased a 2005 Sport w/kdss with 8ok now has 135k.
I replaced
front + rear brake linings.
1 front bearing
spark plugs
all fluids
Mobile 1 every oil change never add oil between changes oil always honey colored when changed around 9k miles.
Have put on 60 series Bridgestones + 1.25 inch spidertrack spacers +
Xenon headlights + fog lights.
Car runs perfect and people can't believe it isn't new.

The bad news is: it may need rear shocks soon...a slight bottoming feel.
Old 08-11-13, 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by GeneE
Good suggestions.

I purchased a 2005 Sport w/kdss with 8ok now has 135k.
I replaced
front + rear brake linings.
1 front bearing
spark plugs
all fluids
Mobile 1 every oil change never add oil between changes oil always honey colored when changed around 9k miles.
Have put on 60 series Bridgestones + 1.25 inch spidertrack spacers +
Xenon headlights + fog lights.
Car runs perfect and people can't believe it isn't new.

The bad news is: it may need rear shocks soon...a slight bottoming feel.
I would be curious to see a picture of your truck with those spacers. I installed 1.25" on my Tundra, thinking about doing the same on the GX.
Old 08-11-13, 02:36 PM
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What 99suprduty said plus get a PPI (Pre-Purchase Inspection) from either a Lexus dealer or an independent that you trust. You're not going to become an overnight expert despite your well-intentioned (and appreciated) effort. Trust an expert before plunking down your dough.

From experience, your new GX is going tear up the four seasons - crushing dirt roads and dominating winter roads - especially with good rubber.

Beyond the purchase price, budget / consider what you're going to do after you buy it: ensure servicing is up-to-date, new rubber, thorough detail, bike / ski rack, tow hitch, xenons from Xenon Depot, iPad holder or DVD player for the backseaters, etc.

Good luck!

Don't skip the PPI.
Old 08-12-13, 03:51 PM
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maybegx
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Will definitely be getting an inspection if things moved forward
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