GX470 - How to replace Front Wheel Axle bearing and Seal replacement
03-29-18, 06:38 AM
#17
Pole Position
Did you check the bearings on the driveshaft U-joints? (both front + rear driveshafts)
Chip H.
Chip H.
03-30-18, 07:05 PM
#18
Driver School Candidate
Thanks, Chip, for the suggestion.
Wouldn't there be the same noise in high 4 as in low 4? The noise really comes isn't noticeable unless you're in low 4 .... so much so that I thought the noise could just be due to the wheel-well splash guard being missing.
Wouldn't there be the same noise in high 4 as in low 4? The noise really comes isn't noticeable unless you're in low 4 .... so much so that I thought the noise could just be due to the wheel-well splash guard being missing.
03-30-18, 07:53 PM
#19
Driver School Candidate
Am I being ignorant if I ask "is there a front axle on the GX470?" The last time I changed u-joints on an axle, I had to have the axle rebalanced and it was a major issue, but I don't see a front axle.
04-01-18, 01:52 PM
#20
Pole Position
You could be getting the noise because there's much more torque going through them when you're in Lo. So any sloppiness in the bearings will become more apparent because there's more pressure on them.
Something to check, anyway.
The GX uses CV joints out to the front wheels, so not a solid axle like there is on a Jeep Wrangler (which gets way more articulation as a result - but drives more like a truck too)
Chip H.
Something to check, anyway.
The GX uses CV joints out to the front wheels, so not a solid axle like there is on a Jeep Wrangler (which gets way more articulation as a result - but drives more like a truck too)
Chip H.
04-01-18, 02:41 PM
#21
Driver School Candidate
Should I replace the CV axle and bearing on the driver side? I've replaced the CV axle and bearing on the passenger side (it certainly sounds like the noise was on the passenger side).
04-12-18, 07:29 PM
#22
Driver School Candidate
Duh, so I just couldn't see the drive shaft from the passenger side. The rubber on the tie rod links was shot on both sides and, now, I see that my lower control arm ball joint rubber looks to have failed. I can a control arm fail on my truck and it drove like crap. What's the symptom on the GX470? Now that I see I need to replace the lower ball joint (both sides, I'm sure), I'm still trying to rule out the transfer case. There seems to be quite a bit of play in the front drive shaft with the driver-side wheel raised, but I don't really feel any plan in the u-joints. Is it hard to feel?
12-20-18, 05:36 AM
#23
The right front bearing is definitely shot in my ‘03 GX. The left front is probably not far behind it. I looked over my notes and I’m pretty sure that they are original to the vehicle. With 201k miles, it’s not surprising that they need to be replaced.
Before I go order new ones from the Jersey hubs place above, I kind of want to know what I’m getting myself into. I’m pretty handy but have never attempted this type of repair before. The one shop said they weren’t able to get it off due to rust and not having the right size tools. That sounds like a cop out (more that they just didn’t feel like doing what was going to a be a nuisance of a job). They’d already had the truck for a week and my wife chewed out the owner the day before when she found out they hadn’t even looked at it.
Anyways, a couple of questions:
1. How difficult a job is this, given the inevitable rust?
2. Are there any special tools required? We have a farm so I have access to pretty much a full shop.
Any tips or guidance would be very very much appreciated before I head down the DIY path.
Before I go order new ones from the Jersey hubs place above, I kind of want to know what I’m getting myself into. I’m pretty handy but have never attempted this type of repair before. The one shop said they weren’t able to get it off due to rust and not having the right size tools. That sounds like a cop out (more that they just didn’t feel like doing what was going to a be a nuisance of a job). They’d already had the truck for a week and my wife chewed out the owner the day before when she found out they hadn’t even looked at it.
Anyways, a couple of questions:
1. How difficult a job is this, given the inevitable rust?
2. Are there any special tools required? We have a farm so I have access to pretty much a full shop.
Any tips or guidance would be very very much appreciated before I head down the DIY path.
12-20-18, 05:39 AM
#24
I put a large acorn nut between the bolt head and the spindle and as I backed out the bolts, they pushed the hub off. Saves you from having to beat/pry off the old hub and really helps break rust.
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ebradford (01-10-19)
12-20-18, 06:16 AM
#25
Appreciate the tip. That makes total sense. Let the bolts help with the work from behind.
12-30-18, 07:49 AM
#27
Driver School Candidate
The right front bearing is definitely shot in my ‘03 GX. The left front is probably not far behind it. I looked over my notes and I’m pretty sure that they are original to the vehicle. With 201k miles, it’s not surprising that they need to be replaced.
Before I go order new ones from the Jersey hubs place above, I kind of want to know what I’m getting myself into. I’m pretty handy but have never attempted this type of repair before. The one shop said they weren’t able to get it off due to rust and not having the right size tools. That sounds like a cop out (more that they just didn’t feel like doing what was going to a be a nuisance of a job). They’d already had the truck for a week and my wife chewed out the owner the day before when she found out they hadn’t even looked at it.
Anyways, a couple of questions:
1. How difficult a job is this, given the inevitable rust?
2. Are there any special tools required? We have a farm so I have access to pretty much a full shop.
Any tips or guidance would be very very much appreciated before I head down the DIY path.
Before I go order new ones from the Jersey hubs place above, I kind of want to know what I’m getting myself into. I’m pretty handy but have never attempted this type of repair before. The one shop said they weren’t able to get it off due to rust and not having the right size tools. That sounds like a cop out (more that they just didn’t feel like doing what was going to a be a nuisance of a job). They’d already had the truck for a week and my wife chewed out the owner the day before when she found out they hadn’t even looked at it.
Anyways, a couple of questions:
1. How difficult a job is this, given the inevitable rust?
2. Are there any special tools required? We have a farm so I have access to pretty much a full shop.
Any tips or guidance would be very very much appreciated before I head down the DIY path.
The only part where anything special was required was to spread the bearing from the hub. I actually bought new hubs and pressed them onto the bearing which just required a small shop press (manual hydraulic). I'm sure with some effort I could have split the bearings from the hubs but I thought while I was in there I'd change those as well. Actually I changed everything from the differential out (CV axles, bearings, hubs, rotors, caliper on one side, pads). I also changed the rear brakes including the E-brake pads and did this in a DIY shop in 1 long day (12 hours or so with 2 sets of hands). would have been 2 days for sure by myself.
That is my recolection anyways...I wouldn't be scared of this job, as everything goes once you get in there it is just nuts and bolts as they say.
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ebradford (01-10-19)
01-10-19, 07:12 AM
#28
I remember everything being straight forward as far as taking old stuff apart. Mine had 155k kms (100k mile) or so and was rusted from the canadian winters. But quality lexus parts are properly sized to take the torque required to bust them apart. Lots of penetrating oil (the night before if possible) would be helpful.
The only part where anything special was required was to spread the bearing from the hub. I actually bought new hubs and pressed them onto the bearing which just required a small shop press (manual hydraulic). I'm sure with some effort I could have split the bearings from the hubs but I thought while I was in there I'd change those as well. Actually I changed everything from the differential out (CV axles, bearings, hubs, rotors, caliper on one side, pads). I also changed the rear brakes including the E-brake pads and did this in a DIY shop in 1 long day (12 hours or so with 2 sets of hands). would have been 2 days for sure by myself.
That is my recolection anyways...I wouldn't be scared of this job, as everything goes once you get in there it is just nuts and bolts as they say.
The only part where anything special was required was to spread the bearing from the hub. I actually bought new hubs and pressed them onto the bearing which just required a small shop press (manual hydraulic). I'm sure with some effort I could have split the bearings from the hubs but I thought while I was in there I'd change those as well. Actually I changed everything from the differential out (CV axles, bearings, hubs, rotors, caliper on one side, pads). I also changed the rear brakes including the E-brake pads and did this in a DIY shop in 1 long day (12 hours or so with 2 sets of hands). would have been 2 days for sure by myself.
That is my recolection anyways...I wouldn't be scared of this job, as everything goes once you get in there it is just nuts and bolts as they say.
Here's a link to the product page:
http://bluepitbearings.com/2003-2009...el-Bearing.php
And here's the video in case you are curious:
There was a lot more rust on mine but nothing that a heavy shot of PB Blaster couldn't take care of. Overall, a lot less painful (and expensive) than I had anticipated. Andy is super helpful as well. He ships fast and puts together a really high-quality product.
05-28-20, 03:13 PM
#29
Driver School Candidate
I decided to go this route and ordered a pair of bearing assemblies from this vendor and after receiving a confirmation did not receive parts and the phone number contact does not answer and instead there is a message that the mailbox is full. Did some research and found threads on other forums such as this one:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/...#post-22337754
Did some more research and reordered the assemblies from 05taco4x4 and received them three days later. I took some pics and will try to upload. Bearing assys look exactly like pics in ad and were packaged using what looked like Great Stuff window foam. Here's a link to his ad on Tacoma World
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/...runner.537080/
FWIW, I couldn't even contact Marion B2B to cancel the order and ended up filing dispute claims with paypal and my credit card company. While researching, it also seems like people had similar problems with a guy who did bearing assemblies from NJ and another suggested that the ebay vendor 8maggie was Marion B2B and/or that the bearings in current assemblies were fake Koyos. I don't know enough about this subject to verify anything other than the failure to deliver my order in a timely manner and a lack of communication from Marion B2B. Hopefully this will help others. Buyer Beware I guess.
