girlwstyle

I'm buying my 1st lexus I want the 2003-2004 GX470 & am looking a few today. I remember reading that when test driving an older version of this SUV I should make sure that the 4 wheel drive system engages properly and isn't seized up due to non use well as the locking center differential works. I'm capable of driving off road vehicles and know how a 4 wheel drive system works but this one seems to confuse me with all the options and adjustable suspension.

*During my first test drive I engaged the high while parked and in neutral after the test drive, nothing happened with the dash light and so I switched down to neutral and then attempted to go into low and the gears made a grinding sound so I put it back in neutral, park, and turned the car off. It then started to roll! This was a private seller so I felt really bad and put the parking break on and got out. He didn't know much about the 4 wheel drive functions and they had never used it before.

I haven't been able to fine a SINGLE video or explanation on how to properly drive/shift these & find contradicting information on daily driving settings. I figured I'd ask the experts since your forum has been the MOST helpful in all my research. So here are my questions:

1) When test driving a 2004 gx470 and they have never used the 4 wheel drive what are the steps to shift it into high, neutral, and low properly and make sure that they are working correctly?
*I must move the shifter into down into 2L (or like) gear when 4x4 lever has "low" engaged correct?
*From what I found believe I made the mistake of not letting the gears adjust and allowing the dash light to move before shifting back into neutral and then low since it seems to take a few minutes, is that correct?

2) When in daily driving mode do you most often have the 4 wheel shifter in Neutral or High? Some videos say they drive in "high" everyday and that "neutral" should only be engaged when stopped?

3) How do I properly test the locking differential? Is there a speed limit or driving condition limit to testing this or can it be engaged when driving on normal highway and city streets?

4) What signs should I look for when engaging the different 4 wheel drive modes that indicate problems or that it's seized up due to non use over the past 11 years?

chiph9

1. To change ranges on the transfer box, stop the vehicle and put the gearshift into neutral or park. Then move the transfer case lever (H-N-L). It's possible you may need to let the vehicle roll a few inches to allow the gears to line up.

2. Leave it in high for daily driving. As you saw, putting it in neutral disconnects the transmission from the wheels, so not only won't you have engine power, you won't have parking power either (since the parking pawl is inside the transmission). Use the handbrake to keep it from rolling away if you're in neutral. There is a red light on the dash to remind you of the roll-away risk when the gearshift is in park and the transfer case is in neutral.

3. You can use the locking center differential (it has center only, not front or rear lockers) in either high or low range. Be on a low-friction surface like dirt or gravel, NOT pavement. Come to a stop, press and hold the button for a few seconds. Wait until the light stops blinking. You might need to let the vehicle roll a bit to allow the gears to line up. Repeat to unlock it.

4. A little bit of gear whine is normal (should just be audible when you drive). Anything louder than that indicates physical damage to the gears. The H-N-L range selection is manual (for some reason the 4Runner gets an electric shifter, the GX doesn't) so that should be obvious. The locking differential can be a little fiddly, but one the light is on solid, you can test it by making sharp turns (ON DIRT!) -- you might hear a groaning noise as the tires slip -- that's normal.

5. There is also a hill-descent control (the DAC button). I've never used it, but to test it, be offroad, be in low range, be in 1st gear, turn it on and head down a hill. It should prevent the vehicle from going too fast (use your safe judgement here).

Given the age of the vehicles you're looking at, the most likely thing you'll run into is a leaking transfer case seal. It's an expensive repair at the dealer, so adjust your bid by $2000 if it's dripping. If it isn't leaking (no drips) it's because it's still good and not because the PO let it run dry. :O If it ran dry, pass on the vehicle.

Best of luck!
Chip H.

girlwstyle

Wonderful, THANK YOU so much! Quick Q: What's the best way to check the transfer case seal for leaks or past leaks that have been repaired after allowing to run dry?

I'm just getting ready to head out and drive 2 hours to test one I found in the white with spoiler and great interior so your answer is in perfect timing.

I felt so lost in this regardless of my vehicle knowledge...and being a woman dealers seem to think they can take me to the cleaners and seem shocked when I check more than just the engine oil condition.

girlwstyle

Well I guess I should ask: Do I just look for general oil leaks and then request they verify the transfer case seal when I take it to get checked out prior to purchase? (Which I'll obviously do)

I just spoke to the guy on the phone and he said that they timing belt & water pump were done around 90k. That he's gotten different answers from mechanics but Lexus dealership told him over a year ago that radiator needed done NOW and that the transfer case was leaking but his mechanic says that neither one is an issue.

zippinbye

Just to clarify one point you brought up on the initial post. H/L/N are pretty much like any other lever shifted transfer case except there's no "2hi." Select Neutral and neither driveshaft receives power, 4x4 or otherwise. Should you find yourself in Neutral, it's necessary to also place the transmission in Neutral and allow a few seconds for rotation to cease. If not, you'll get the dreaded grinding. Then shift the transfer case into L or H, followed by reselecting the transmission as you wish. Sounds like the end of your test drive suffered from minor confusion, not a mechanical issue.

Regarding the notion of unexercised 4 wheel drive, keep in mind the AWD system will apply drive power to the front end automatically in conditions that warrant. Most GXs that have seen rain snow or dirt get some exercise. It's not like selectable 4x4 that only gets action when selected. If a shift in and and of Lo goes well and there's no evidence of leakage, prospects are good.

girlwstyle

That's what I figured happened. I wasn't so much worried I damaged the car just embarrassed hah! Feels a bit silly to be looking to buy a car that initially cost so much and not be able to work it properly

We do get rain and some slick roads in southern california and I suppose some could have taken their gx off roading in the desert or trails but I highly doubt there are many of them that have such daring owners :roll eyes: It's great to know I don't have much to worry about with that though. I haven't been able to find one seriously negative thing about this vehicle online.

NR04

You will almost always get a grinding noise when shifting H-N-:L when on paved surfaces. My theory is that the front and rear shafts are never perfectly aligned and you're forcing the gears to sync up. I had the same worry when I couldn't make the grinding noise go away when changing the transfer case on the road surface. However, when you're on the dirt road, you never get the grinding noise because the surface allows the wheels to slip just enough for the gears to engage properly. Bottom line, don't shift transfer case when on pavement. Only engage when you're actually off-road.

i did try downhill assist a few times but it's not really necessary unless you're coming down a pretty significant grade. The system works by applying brakes on each wheel depending on slippage. It makes a lot of noise as the hydraulic pump works hard to ensure you have proper brake fluid pressure for this system to work. I have come down some scary hills and didn't feel the need to engage it. Having the transfer case in L and transmission in L1 was good enough.

As for the center differential lock, it won't disengage unless you're moving. Simply turning it off won't make the light on your dash go away. It needs several axle rotation to disengage. I normally have it locked as soon as I hit the dirt road. I have been advised that this is good practice to limit the differential fluid from getting hot since the differential is constantly working when driving off-road.

The other thing you should check is the last time the differential and transfer case fluid were replaced. If the car has never been off-road, it shouldn't deter you from purchasing the vehicle but I would get those fluid replaced.

As for the transfer case leak, it could be from a number of reasons. But most posts I've read had to do with either shaft seal (easy fix) or actuator seal going bad. The latter could cost a lot when repaired by the dealer but people have successfully replaced the seals for $50. The main reason being that most dealers want to pull the entire transfer case out of your truck. One of my buddies had the same problem and took it to one of our mechanic friend and he was able to fix the leak without removing the case. Again, not a huge deal breaker.

Good luck hunting!

chiph9

The radiators do go bad after a while - there'll be a red "rock-candy" build-up on one side from the leak. I think they're around $600 to do at the dealer. If you get this done, ask for a half-bottle of the pre-mixed coolant to take home so you can top-off the overflow tank over the next few days as it burps out air.

If you're not willing to crawl under the vehicle to check for leaks, general condition, etc. you might look into a vehicle inspection service. They usually charge about $120 to come out and prepare a report. I've had good results using one in the past. Or if the seller will allow, take it to a trusted mechanic and have them look over it.

The transfer case isn't a huge issue, as long as you're willing to get under the vehicle and keep the fluid topped-off. And you're ok with a car that spots the garage floor (put cardboard & kitty-litter down). The danger is in letting it run dry.

Chip H.

IanB2

Small correction here, you just need to press the CDL button, not hold it, to engage the center diff lock (4x4). You can also do this while rolling, no need to come to a stop.

girlwstyle

Thank you! These posts saved me with the one I drove over 2 hours to look at. It has all the features I wanted, in white with the gold accents and I was SOOO hoping it would be "the one" however it smelled HORRIBLY like curry, no 90k service done, transmission fluid was a horrible color, oil change needed done, spare was flat & from service records provided looked to be plugged (so they ran the spare flat and then got it plugged & never replaced it), and worst of all the transfer case was leaking so badly the entire undercarriage of the engine block had a thick layer of sludge. I was SO bummed out I had to turn right around and drive 2 hours back home. It's exhausting trying to find the right one...I'm so tired of driving all over the tri county

Jaysmith2k

That sux, but it's worth the effort. I'm on my 2nd GX470 and it is by far the best SUV I've ever owned. Good luck on your search!

chiph9

I don't get why some people buy a $60k vehicle and then don't maintain it. Crazy.

Chip H.

mswtoyota

You might try setting up an account at Lexus Drivers because you can type in the VIN of any Lexus vehicle and see all of the dealership service records for the vehicle before you buy. Link here:
https://secure.drivers.lexus.com/lex...-lexus/home.do
You can also read/search the factory owners manual, which has detailed instructions on everything pertaining to the vehicle, including transfer case/4x4 use and how to use the rather non-intuitive navigation system.

Rockbus

Excellent advice. My used GX has every regular maintenance plus a few repairs at the same dealer ship in town from day 1 till 2 months before I got the car. I looked at 8+ 4Runners and 6+ Gx's before I found this one.

Another thing I would suggest is get a carfax account and run the carfax on any car you are interested in. The info is based on the shops and dealers that report to carfax so its not 100% but you;ll get registration and smog info (Dates, location, mileage etc).

You can verify if the car has correct mileage, if its been in areas where rust is an issue, if the title is suspect, how long the current owner has had the car. I noticed a large number of people buying cars from auction then selling them as private sellers.

I would rather buy from the original owner, or at least a long time owner so I can ask about history, whats been replaced, what issues have come up, why is there a dent or scratch, get receipts, etc, not a wanna be used car sales man who cant tell me about the car or withholds info.

If a guy tells you the water pump was replaced how can your tell? At least if he has a receipt you can feel a bit better.

Another car to look at are LX's and Landcruisers. They have more room in back plus they have a tailgate.

One other thing about the Timing belt work. Its not that expensive away from the dealer.

You can get a "Kit" with a Gates belt, hyd tension-er, pulley and water pump for under $200 and if you can't do the work your self there are timing belt guys that will do the labor at your house or workplace for $250-$300. The timing belt labor should include the water pump since you have to remove it anyway. When you do the Timing belt change the serpentine belt and upper and lower radiator hoses and thermostat at the same time. Again labor should be free for all these parts.

If the radiator is leaking replace that at the same time, as the radiator is likely removed to get access to the TB.

Another thing, before letting anyone work on your car go over everything, AC, Heater, Doors, steering, radio everything and make sure they know it all works. Lets say the guy works on the PS pump and fixes that, if the AC does not work he broke it and you have proof. Some shops will claim it didnt work before so they will want money to "fix" it.

Good luck in your search. Remember you can always walk away if something feels fishy.

Ray

girlwstyle

Wow, thank you! That was the best news I've gotten since I started Car shopping!!