Driveshaft Question. Easy 1
#1
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Doing some chassis and under body work, I want to grease the zerks while I am under it. Its may be in the book of the famous clunk post, I may have missed it.
How much grease can go in the zerk??????? I did the rear 1 and really kept a eye on it and filled it very slow. I saw just a bit of movement, I stopped. Is that ok or too much? When I say a bit of movement about the width of the letter "i" on your phone or keyboard. I thought I read about Lexus/Toyota techs do the same thing, as soon as it moves, stop. Thank you.
How much grease can go in the zerk??????? I did the rear 1 and really kept a eye on it and filled it very slow. I saw just a bit of movement, I stopped. Is that ok or too much? When I say a bit of movement about the width of the letter "i" on your phone or keyboard. I thought I read about Lexus/Toyota techs do the same thing, as soon as it moves, stop. Thank you.
#2
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This is for a 4Runnner, but same basic drivetrain. Skip to around 22 minutes for the zerks.
#3
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You're spot on with the 'see movement and stop'. Don't have to be exceedingly cautious .. not going to break anything if it moves a little. Just more excess grease expelled from the grease fitting when you drive it. Can end up on your garage floor.
For the other fittings you only need to add a little grease, and I think it's good to go slow, until it makes a little noise or starts to ooze out.
Download a 4runner manual from one of the toyota forums and it's got the procedure. I think the one I found was a 2006 manual. Or you can pay for TIS and download all of the pages you think you'll need.
There's also the discussion of grease type. By the book you should be using two types of grease depending on which fitting you're greasing. Your option is to get two grease guns and do what the toyota engineers want (can't go wrong here) or assume a little risk and grease everything with moly grease (not technically correct but should be just fine .. most people and shops do this).
For the other fittings you only need to add a little grease, and I think it's good to go slow, until it makes a little noise or starts to ooze out.
Download a 4runner manual from one of the toyota forums and it's got the procedure. I think the one I found was a 2006 manual. Or you can pay for TIS and download all of the pages you think you'll need.
There's also the discussion of grease type. By the book you should be using two types of grease depending on which fitting you're greasing. Your option is to get two grease guns and do what the toyota engineers want (can't go wrong here) or assume a little risk and grease everything with moly grease (not technically correct but should be just fine .. most people and shops do this).
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DiabloX22 (06-05-17)
#4
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You're spot on with the 'see movement and stop'. Don't have to be exceedingly cautious .. not going to break anything if it moves a little. Just more excess grease expelled from the grease fitting when you drive it. Can end up on your garage floor.
For the other fittings you only need to add a little grease, and I think it's good to go slow, until it makes a little noise or starts to ooze out.
Download a 4runner manual from one of the toyota forums and it's got the procedure. I think the one I found was a 2006 manual. Or you can pay for TIS and download all of the pages you think you'll need.
There's also the discussion of grease type. By the book you should be using two types of grease depending on which fitting you're greasing. Your option is to get two grease guns and do what the toyota engineers want (can't go wrong here) or assume a little risk and grease everything with moly grease (not technically correct but should be just fine .. most people and shops do this).
For the other fittings you only need to add a little grease, and I think it's good to go slow, until it makes a little noise or starts to ooze out.
Download a 4runner manual from one of the toyota forums and it's got the procedure. I think the one I found was a 2006 manual. Or you can pay for TIS and download all of the pages you think you'll need.
There's also the discussion of grease type. By the book you should be using two types of grease depending on which fitting you're greasing. Your option is to get two grease guns and do what the toyota engineers want (can't go wrong here) or assume a little risk and grease everything with moly grease (not technically correct but should be just fine .. most people and shops do this).
#5
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Follow on regarding grease type: If you don't already have two grease guns you'd be losing money if you bought a second just to apply the non-synthetic moly grease. Even at $20 for a second gun and a tube of grease you'd be hard pressed to recoup that money. A very slight chance that you'd extend the life of a $500 part that's not too hard to replace. Different ball game than the fluids - those are higher stakes.
#7
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Yep ALAN553 you did tell me the same and thats what I am using. I never had the clunk ever, I do have the updated shaft a other components. I did both until I got just a little movement, front 1 took a lot. No noises or clunks! It could be in my head but it feels a bit stiffer driving. Does the grease provide lube and aid in some compression?
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#8
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Yep ALAN553 you did tell me the same and thats what I am using. I never had the clunk ever, I do have the updated shaft a other components. I did both until I got just a little movement, front 1 took a lot. No noises or clunks! It could be in my head but it feels a bit stiffer driving. Does the grease provide lube and aid in some compression?
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