BRAKE pedal humming after I installed new pads.
01-11-18, 09:34 PM
#16
Pole Position
Had one of those in the front and was 79.99 at The Irish auto parts store. My rear brakes were functional but never checked the fluid. The rear brake fluid was black with things floating around in it. I did a 75% flush with my 8yr old doing the pedal work. After I did the flush to both of the rear calipers the brakes were like new. Firm and functional. The buzzing is 90% gone but I believe that 2 seconds is normal and after a complete clean out this weekend it will function as it should.
01-12-18, 07:35 AM
#17
Glad it is improved...
For the record it is a BAD PRACTICE to collapse a caliper piston and force all of that debris into the master cylinder.... It can be full of moisture, rubber content, and rust. All of which damage the most critical component of the system. The master cylinder.
Best practice is to open the bleeder at the caliper being serviced to reduce the chances of fluid backflowing into the line.
To stop fluid from moving up the line during piston compression, have a helper depress the brake pedal. This seals the reservoir shut.
Tip: for a firm pedal pressure bleed the brakes. While pressure is built and retained, tap the caliper with a plastic mallet to free any trapped air. Under pressure the bubbles combine into larger volumes which are more likely to leave through the bleeder.
NOTE: only tap from the bottom up (preferred) or top down.
For the record it is a BAD PRACTICE to collapse a caliper piston and force all of that debris into the master cylinder.... It can be full of moisture, rubber content, and rust. All of which damage the most critical component of the system. The master cylinder.
Best practice is to open the bleeder at the caliper being serviced to reduce the chances of fluid backflowing into the line.
To stop fluid from moving up the line during piston compression, have a helper depress the brake pedal. This seals the reservoir shut.
Tip: for a firm pedal pressure bleed the brakes. While pressure is built and retained, tap the caliper with a plastic mallet to free any trapped air. Under pressure the bubbles combine into larger volumes which are more likely to leave through the bleeder.
NOTE: only tap from the bottom up (preferred) or top down.
01-12-18, 11:35 AM
#18
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Nice tip, I am however going to rebleed / flush the entire system this weekend. With 190k on it I am not surprised with the brake system being contaminated. However it's the wife's car so I never now what needs to be done until I am told in the form of a compaint. I.e. car is loud when I drive and the "thing ama jig" is shooting sparks out of it. <--- one of my favs. Turned out to be a blown tire and was driving on the rim for about 6 to 8 miles. Uff lol.
01-12-18, 12:30 PM
#19
Pole Position
It's always surprising to me how many people don't change their brake fluid. 3 years is normal, unless you live near the ocean or other large body of water, then you should do it every 2 years. Brake fluid is hygroscopic and absorbs moisture from the air. Too much moisture in the fluid and you can end up with super-expensive repairs (new master cylinder, new ABS pump, 4 new brake calipers, etc) because they rusted inside. Or you can end up not being able to stop in a panic situation because the heat going into the calipers caused the moisture to turn into steam (which compresses all too easily, preventing the pads from gripping the rotor).
Chip H.
Chip H.
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