Maybe the Drivers door lock actuator??
#1
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Maybe the Drivers door lock actuator??
So I’ve had an issue since I bought my GX470... not a huge issue, but one I’d like to fix before it becomes a “real” issue.
I believe it’s the drivers door latch(it would be if it were german. Lol)...
if I use the key to unlock the drivers front door, it works but turning it a second time doesn’t unlock or lock the other doors.. it also doesn’t activate or de-activate the alarm.... so I can actually set the alarm off by unlocking the door with they key and opening it. The key fob works fine and doesn’t cause this, plus it has decent range since replacing the key battery.
I just found out you can roll all of the windows down using the remote on the 2005 models... mine will make the beep prior to rolling the windows down, but it doesn’t follow through with the actual process of rolling the windows down.
The drivers door locks and unlocks fine.. there is just these 2 issues I’ve mentioned.
My thought is that the latch arch has been replaced before, but with the incorrect part(like on from an older model or a 4Runner latch.
Anyone experience this? I’d like to see if it’s a know issue before I start piggy backing the circuit with a multi-meter and test leads... and just save myself a few hours of diagnosis.
I believe it’s the drivers door latch(it would be if it were german. Lol)...
if I use the key to unlock the drivers front door, it works but turning it a second time doesn’t unlock or lock the other doors.. it also doesn’t activate or de-activate the alarm.... so I can actually set the alarm off by unlocking the door with they key and opening it. The key fob works fine and doesn’t cause this, plus it has decent range since replacing the key battery.
I just found out you can roll all of the windows down using the remote on the 2005 models... mine will make the beep prior to rolling the windows down, but it doesn’t follow through with the actual process of rolling the windows down.
The drivers door locks and unlocks fine.. there is just these 2 issues I’ve mentioned.
My thought is that the latch arch has been replaced before, but with the incorrect part(like on from an older model or a 4Runner latch.
Anyone experience this? I’d like to see if it’s a know issue before I start piggy backing the circuit with a multi-meter and test leads... and just save myself a few hours of diagnosis.
#2
Pole Position
Could be the switch inside the latch or the wiring (rubber boot where it goes into the frame?). Time to get the multimeter out, I'm afraid.
Chip H.
Chip H.
#3
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
I’m guessing it’s the door latch actuator. The only thing that throws me off is the feature for rolling down the windows using the key fob. I can unlock the vehicle... then press and hold the unlock button... and I get the beep that initiates the process but nothing happens after that.
So is the drivers door lock the trigger for this feature??
the wiring harness that travels through the door is in great shape. No broken or damaged wires.
I just hsve have to figure out what triggers the windows to roll down and the sunroof to open when the unlock button on the fob is held.
#4
Pole Position
I don't know how the comfort roll-down is controlled (did I just make up a feature name?).
But you said that using the key, the driver's door unlocks, but a second turn does not unlock the others. That tells me the mechanical linkage is good, and that the other actuators depend on the signal from the switch inside the driver's actuator. So switch or wiring. Most likely.
Chip H.
But you said that using the key, the driver's door unlocks, but a second turn does not unlock the others. That tells me the mechanical linkage is good, and that the other actuators depend on the signal from the switch inside the driver's actuator. So switch or wiring. Most likely.
Chip H.
#5
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
I don't know how the comfort roll-down is controlled (did I just make up a feature name?).
But you said that using the key, the driver's door unlocks, but a second turn does not unlock the others. That tells me the mechanical linkage is good, and that the other actuators depend on the signal from the switch inside the driver's actuator. So switch or wiring. Most likely.
Chip H.
But you said that using the key, the driver's door unlocks, but a second turn does not unlock the others. That tells me the mechanical linkage is good, and that the other actuators depend on the signal from the switch inside the driver's actuator. So switch or wiring. Most likely.
Chip H.
Tells me the same. I know the actuator has a bad microswitch. So I’ll probably just order an actuator anyway. From the looks of the catch... it appears to be a different material/color that the other doors. So I’m thinking a cheap Chinese actuator was installed at some point.
Any recommendations on where to get one at a decent price?
#6
Pole Position
You've got a decent chance of getting an OEM part from Amazon. Or eBay if they show a picture of it in original Toyota packaging. (iirc, eBay rules say photos have to be of the actual item)
AutoPepo'Reilly -- it's unlikely you'll get OEM.
Chip H.
AutoPepo'Reilly -- it's unlikely you'll get OEM.
Chip H.
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MrJason (06-25-19)
#7
It's Aisin, Japanese brand. Might be OEM. If it's OEM, then looks like a decent price.
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#8
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Thanks. I was looking at that asin actuator... can’t beat the price.
But I was also reading about a guy on ebay who rebuilds the oem actuators and they only cost $47(after he receives the core).
I just need to pull mine out and see if it’s an aftermarket one. So I don’t get screwed on the core return.
But I was also reading about a guy on ebay who rebuilds the oem actuators and they only cost $47(after he receives the core).
I just need to pull mine out and see if it’s an aftermarket one. So I don’t get screwed on the core return.
#9
Thanks. I was looking at that asin actuator... can’t beat the price.
But I was also reading about a guy on ebay who rebuilds the oem actuators and they only cost $47(after he receives the core).
I just need to pull mine out and see if it’s an aftermarket one. So I don’t get screwed on the core return.
But I was also reading about a guy on ebay who rebuilds the oem actuators and they only cost $47(after he receives the core).
I just need to pull mine out and see if it’s an aftermarket one. So I don’t get screwed on the core return.
Regards,
Actuators Plus
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chiph9 (06-28-19)
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