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Replacing the entire sub enclosure will be over $450, and I'm just not willing to spend that much. But I do want to stay original and not lose any cargo area by dropping a amp + box combo in there. So I'm not sure if I'll just replace the surround, or send the driver itself off.
Sorry to hear(No pun intended). If you like the OEM stuff, then look for one at a wrecking yard, as I am sure there have been others whom have gone the aftermarket route, which may still have their original.
I've thought of doing that, but I think the real culprit in all of this is age, and any parts from a yard will only be at most, 4 or 5 years newer, and have probably been sitting in direct sunlight.
p/n is 86150-0W030 if anyone is curious.
Chip H.
edit: Car-part.com lists 4 GXes with subs in the Sacramento area and they've been sitting outside for months.
I've thought of doing that, but I think the real culprit in all of this is age, and any parts from a yard will only be at most, 4 or 5 years newer, and have probably been sitting in direct sunlight.
p/n is 86150-0W030 if anyone is curious.
Chip H.
edit: Car-part.com lists 4 GXes with subs in the Sacramento area and they've been sitting outside for months.
Sac? yeah, I'm about 2.5-3 hours from there.
And true, the real culprit is AGE... That's why everyone doesn't bother with OEM (Unless new), and goes the aftermarket route.
Just get a low profile pioneer sub/amp combo... they sell a nice little 10” that’s really small and you can power it from the outlet in the back. Then just use the sub speaker wires to go into the high level inputs... it also has its own trigger to turn on when the speaker wires produce voltage.
[QUOTE=MrJason;10616596]Just get a low profile pioneer sub/amp combo... they sell a nice little 10” that’s really small and you can power it from the outlet in the back. Then just use the sub speaker wires to go into the high level inputs... it also has its own trigger to turn on when the speaker wires produce voltage.
They are cheap on amazon. Just an idea.[/QUOTE/]
You can't forget that this is probably a man, whom likes to have his OEM, well.... OEM lol .. Honestly though I can respect that. Specially when it comes to resale value, and/or selling things. But yeah, Pioneer, etc.. can be better and most of the time, cheaper.
I'm curious about the JL Audio MicroSub+ .. I have a question into their support about using it with the Mark Levinson amp, if I jumper off the existing mono sub wires and run an extension to it's high-level input. Which appears to expect a stereo input, and I'm not sure what resistance it would present to the ML amp (hopefully 8 ohms)
I'm curious about the JL Audio MicroSub+ .. I have a question into their support about using it with the Mark Levinson amp, if I jumper off the existing mono sub wires and run an extension to it's high-level input. Which appears to expect a stereo input, and I'm not sure what resistance it would present to the ML amp (hopefully 8 ohms)
Short of calling them up and asking them, or having a member chiming in and explaining their findings as they too, purchased one for their rig. You may be on the right path(As mentioned, so long as their power rating is by way of 8 ohms, or allows it).
I'm curious about the JL Audio MicroSub+ .. I have a question into their support about using it with the Mark Levinson amp, if I jumper off the existing mono sub wires and run an extension to it's high-level input. Which appears to expect a stereo input, and I'm not sure what resistance it would present to the ML amp (hopefully 8 ohms)
I understood it as hidden, behind the side panel. Within the existing space. Don't quote me on that, as I could be wrong.
I'm not sure how much room is behind that panel on a GX470, but on my Land Cruiser there's a pile of room back there, the 10" model I think would fit for sure, maybe even the 12", with a custom bracket.