maxx430

my brake pedal does not stiffen up when i pump it with the car off. Is that normal? there is no brake fluid leak.

chiph9

Just to be clear - your pedal isn't going to the floor - it's just that the feel stays the same after 4-5 pumps?

The GX uses a electric pump to provide brake booster assistance, not vacuum off the engine. So this is normal.
BTW, you don't want to know the cost to replace it... it's a tad pricey.

Chip H.

maxx430

yes, it stays the same after a few pumps. thanks for the information. i was looking at the brake booster/cylinder replacement and it was $$$. what do you think about replacing the brake lines with SS line? i figured the current lines are well over 10+ years old and i have a 3" lift.

captainva

iTrader: (1)

Stainless lines will help a lot with brake feel. I have full stainless now including the middle lines down to the axle (there are 6 total) and I'd do it again. To do all of them its about $150

maxx430

6 total? i know the rear has an option for extended line and since im lifted, i will go with that. I was told the front dont need extended lines. What are the middle line down to the axle? got a link for that?

IanB2

Only the 2 lines from the frame to the axles need to be extended, the soft hoses at the calipers don't need to be any longer than stock. Being that these trucks are IFS, it might only be the rear hose from the frame to axle that needs to be longer, I'd have to have a closer look at how it moves up front.

captainva

iTrader: (1)

There are 6 because like @IanB2 said there are 2 that go from the frame to the axle which are also rubber just like the ones at the corners. There are a few options for these center lines in varying lengths. The lines at the corners also don't need to be extended unless you go long travel. This has all the info you need

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-g...line-info.html

maxx430

thanks for the info. i ordered stoptech front and rear. then i ordered the metal tech extension. Metal tech listed the extended brake line as rear but i believe its for the center line.

captainva

iTrader: (1)

Yeah the metal tech is the center line. I have those exact parts on my truck and it works great. Also when bleeding the rears you don't need to pump. Because we have an electric master with a vacuum pump you just need to push the brake pedal and have someone open the rear bleeders. The master will push the fluid through. The front bleeds normally

maxx430

i was planning to pump the rear right until clean new fluid come out. that way i know the entire system is flush. then i will proceed with bleeding each caliper. is that the proper way?

captainva

iTrader: (1)

I also bled the rear right first to purge the old fluid but I'm saying that you don't need to pump the brake pedal at all for both rear calipers. The system will build pressure (you'll hear the pump running followed by a click) then have a helper hold the brake pedal down (don't pump) while you open the rear bleeder screw on the rear caliper. The brake master will pump the fluid to the rear by itself with no pumping required. The fluid will keep coming out as long as the bleeder is open but only bleed for about 1-2 seconds at a time or the system will start beeping from low brake pressure (failure warning). Also go slow so the brake master doesn't overheat, take 10-15 seconds in between each purge. Last make sure that you keep the master topped up so that you don't suck in any air or you might have to take it off the bench bleed the system. When you bleed the front brakes you will need to pump the pedal to build pressure like a normal brake system